This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link: Privacy Policy
NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.
Cub 22 Sickle Bar Mower
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 11:57 am
- Location: Michigan
- Don McCombs
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 17486
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
- Zip Code: 21550
- Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
- Bus Driver
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2917
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2006 5:26 pm
- Location: NC
Yes, it is a 5/8- 11 bolt with taper under the head. I figured out how to make them with my limited machining skills and a Taiwanese lathe. My pay would be very modest if I priced them at $2.50 each.
The rear mount lower hole also hooks over such a bolt. The upper hole accepts a bolt inserted through a hole in the bracket. The back of the bracket raises some questions. The upper hole- not slotted or tapered- has a spacer welded onto the back. The bottom hole - keyhole shaped- does not have the spacer, although I once saw such a spacer welded on as owner modification. If the missing bottom spacer is intended to accomodate the drawbar bracket, the bolt used in that hole would have to be longer than those typically used for the final drives. I would welcome more information about this.
Perhaps this original spacer arrangement was intended to permit use of the drawbar while the mower is mounted.
The rear mount lower hole also hooks over such a bolt. The upper hole accepts a bolt inserted through a hole in the bracket. The back of the bracket raises some questions. The upper hole- not slotted or tapered- has a spacer welded onto the back. The bottom hole - keyhole shaped- does not have the spacer, although I once saw such a spacer welded on as owner modification. If the missing bottom spacer is intended to accomodate the drawbar bracket, the bolt used in that hole would have to be longer than those typically used for the final drives. I would welcome more information about this.
Perhaps this original spacer arrangement was intended to permit use of the drawbar while the mower is mounted.
Luck favors those who are prepared
- Bigdog
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 24144
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
- Zip Code: 43113
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, Circleville
- Contact:
Bus Driver - I mount my 22 with the drawbar in place and your supposition is exacty right. The only thing required is the longer implement bolt.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 130
- Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2005 8:30 am
- Location: Cato, Central NY
- Contact:
-
- Team Cub
- Posts: 17278
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
- Zip Code: 55319
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN
-
- Team Cub
- Posts: 17278
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
- Zip Code: 55319
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN
BD and BD,
The spacer on the housing side of the rear bracket was evidently not on the earliest mowers but added a short way into production.
The earliest manuals indicate removing the drawbar to mount the mower. Everybody quickly realized you could just sandwich the drawbar between the housing and mower bracket, leaving it in place. IH added the spacer to the bracket to match up with the thickness of the drawbar bracket. The later manuals show different bolts that reflect the change.
The early manual expected you to reuse the 1" drawbar bolts, one in the rear bracket and 2 in the bell housing for the front bracket. Later mowers came with a 1 1/4" long bolt for the rear bracket. They also came with one more 1" bolt, which with the one removed form the drawbar took care of the front bracket. The revised manual explained this.
I suppose the bracket may have been narrowed to bring the shaft back into the original position too, but have never measured them to see.
The spacer on the housing side of the rear bracket was evidently not on the earliest mowers but added a short way into production.
The earliest manuals indicate removing the drawbar to mount the mower. Everybody quickly realized you could just sandwich the drawbar between the housing and mower bracket, leaving it in place. IH added the spacer to the bracket to match up with the thickness of the drawbar bracket. The later manuals show different bolts that reflect the change.
The early manual expected you to reuse the 1" drawbar bolts, one in the rear bracket and 2 in the bell housing for the front bracket. Later mowers came with a 1 1/4" long bolt for the rear bracket. They also came with one more 1" bolt, which with the one removed form the drawbar took care of the front bracket. The revised manual explained this.
I suppose the bracket may have been narrowed to bring the shaft back into the original position too, but have never measured them to see.
- Bus Driver
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2917
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2006 5:26 pm
- Location: NC
Really good information from Jim Becker. The mower I have has two spacers welded in place, one for each bolt. The lower spacer is well done, but the slot in it is neatly torch cut, leading me to conclude that it is owner modification. Within 3 years of introduction of the Cub, they were being sold used- we bought one with several rather worn implements- and the new owners often knew few details about proper installation of implements. No Internet and the only source of publications was the dealer. Surprisingly large numbers of people in my area could not read.
Luck favors those who are prepared
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2005 7:25 pm
- eBay ID: huntingpal
- Location: southern indiana/ spencer county
mounting bolts
Are the mounting bolts still available somewere? Possibly the IH dealer? I could uses a set if anybody knows were to get them. Thanks
-
- Team Cub
- Posts: 17278
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
- Zip Code: 55319
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2005 7:25 pm
- eBay ID: huntingpal
- Location: southern indiana/ spencer county
bolts
thanks for the help Jim!
- awander
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1101
- Joined: Sun Oct 09, 2005 9:25 am
- Zip Code: 18972
- eBay ID: ohawiseguyeh
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: PA, Upper Black Eddy
On the subject of the tapered head bolts, and also the front hanging bracket slots/mods:
1) I made up a bunch of tapered washers, just big enough to fit snugly over a 5/8" hex head bolt, to turn it into a tapered head bolt. I will be trying them out, and I'll let you folks know how they work. I am guessing they should be just as good as the actual tapered-head bolts, but you never know-maybe they willl loosen up more easily?
2) The slot on the left side of my front hanger bracket is worn to the point where the tapered-head bolt will not stop it from slipping up under load, no matter how tight I make the bolt-the original tapered seat is completely gone-it's more like just a regular slot. I rigged up a piece of 1/4" steel plate, with a hole for the upper implement bolt on the same mounting pad, and a notch at the bottom, which engages the top rear corner of the hanging bracket, and stops if\t from moving up. The plate is simpley biolted on next to the hanger bracket, and it seems to dfo the job. i like this becaus eno modification was necessary to the bracket on the mower.
1) I made up a bunch of tapered washers, just big enough to fit snugly over a 5/8" hex head bolt, to turn it into a tapered head bolt. I will be trying them out, and I'll let you folks know how they work. I am guessing they should be just as good as the actual tapered-head bolts, but you never know-maybe they willl loosen up more easily?
2) The slot on the left side of my front hanger bracket is worn to the point where the tapered-head bolt will not stop it from slipping up under load, no matter how tight I make the bolt-the original tapered seat is completely gone-it's more like just a regular slot. I rigged up a piece of 1/4" steel plate, with a hole for the upper implement bolt on the same mounting pad, and a notch at the bottom, which engages the top rear corner of the hanging bracket, and stops if\t from moving up. The plate is simpley biolted on next to the hanger bracket, and it seems to dfo the job. i like this becaus eno modification was necessary to the bracket on the mower.
Andy Wander
UBE, PA
'52 Farmall Cub "Wile E."
'72 Int'l Cub "Bugs Backhoe"
"Men are from Earth; Women are from Earth. Deal with it!" (attributed to George Carlin)
UBE, PA
'52 Farmall Cub "Wile E."
'72 Int'l Cub "Bugs Backhoe"
"Men are from Earth; Women are from Earth. Deal with it!" (attributed to George Carlin)
- Steve Butram
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 2461
- Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2003 7:53 am
- Zip Code: 47906
- eBay ID: steveb05
- Tractors Owned: 1947 in well used condition
1948 restored
Nice original 1950 just out of the Demo Range
628 2 wheel Trailer
1950 Demo
Tryke
Rat Cub - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: IN West Lafayette
- George Willer
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7013
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 9:36 pm
- Zip Code: 43420
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OHIO, Fremont
- Contact:
Bus Driver wrote:In the picture of the yellow mower posted by Jim Becker, the hanging bracket has washers welded over the bolt slots. I saw one mower modified by welding upper extensions on this bracket which had bolt holes (not slots) for the upper holes in the torque tube. The lower bolts would let the bracket hang as designed and the upper bolts would prevent the bracket from moving upward. That resulted in two bolts each side holding the mower. Perhaps this should have been the original design. The original system is helpful to permit lifting the mower with both arms and hanging on the bolt in place. Washers welded on require inserting the bolt while the mower is held up. I hope several will share their thoughts and experiences about these modifications. If yours is not modified, do you think it needs to be?
It's possible you've seen mine. The mounting slots were so badly mangled that I just cut the tops off and replaced them with new metal. I drilled holes instead of re-creating the slots. That's what you can do if you have a Cub for each implement and don't have to change them.
George Willer
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
- farmallcub49
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 876
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 5:05 pm
- Zip Code: 56374
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN, St. Joseph
I don't know if these are accurate or not, but they are on epay quite often.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Farmall-Cub-22-Sickle-Mower-Decal-Set-NR_W0QQitemZ110052783400QQihZ001QQcategoryZ11756QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Farmall-Cub-22-Sickle-Mower-Decal-Set-NR_W0QQitemZ110052783400QQihZ001QQcategoryZ11756QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
'49 Cub, '58 LoBoy,'61 LoBoy, '61 Modified LoBoy, '61 Customized LoBoy, way to many attachments, '22 Centerdoor Sedan, '24 Ford T Roadster, '25 Ford TT, '24 C Cab, '13 Touring, '24 Model T Snowmobile,
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bb Bob and 55 guests