Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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15 posts • Page 1 of 1
First...THANKS again for the excellent information. With the help of my books and Farmall Cub Forum, I might be able to understand as much about this small marvel of American ingenuity, design and engineering as I would like.
One thing I have never liked on my '49 is the way the cable from the battery to the starter was installed. It is run from the battery, below floor, directly (straight line) to the starter.. instead of up to the bottom of the tank, through those wire looms (which are all there)... the way "de book" shows. Anyway I want to redo this thing to have the engine lookin good. The existing BLUE cable looks UGLY.
Should I just go to NAPA and get one made up, or is there a source for the exacxt cable. Does anybody know the correct gauge.
I read where Rudi said that there would only be 200 more in the forum...1000 max. Is that what he meant?
Thanks again to everyone...Specially TEAM CUB.
What I said was
Which means that we only have 200 to go to hit 1,000 members. That is a kind of magical number that has been discussed a time or two.
Nowhere did I say in anyway that I can see that the forum was limited to 1000. That would be Dennis' call not mine, and I know he ain't about to do that
I am sorry if you misunderstood my statement. I certainly hope that it is not a common misconception on that post...
As for the battery cable which is Part #3519569R91, it is no longer available through CaseIH (at least I cannot find it at Case Tractor Parts. I probably would run a piece of #14 wire as a pattern along the path according to the book, then go to NAPA and have one made. BigDog knows the cable size to use, I haven't got a clue.
Hope this helps, and clears up the confusion on the other point.....
Thanks for the reply...and your website is Great. I have been looking at alot of interesting pictures, ads, and great info. You have put alot of time in on that one.
Regarding the "1000 magic number"..I guess I was still sleepy when I was reading one of your posts this morning. I'm sure nobody else will take it as did.
back to http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/index.html
Cool I sometimes am guilty of that one too , in fact I remember quite recently I went off the deep end and IF I had only had a cup of coffee first , it would have been crystal clear.
Thanks for all the nice comments about the server, I try. It has become my one abiding passion in being able to contribute to the Cub Family. In fact, sometimes it is a little too overpowering or so my better half thinks occassionally, but she humours me A LOT
By the way, I really like your signature line
Like Rudi said, take a wire or a piece of rope and lay out the route you want your cable to follow. Take it to your favorite auto parts store and have one made out of welding cable. At least 1/0 cable if you decide not to use welding cable. I like the welding cable because it is made of fine wire and is very flexible. The more conductors in the cable, the better it will be able to handle the current flow.
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
I don't remeber ever seeing one run up to the bottom of the gas tank. all I can rmember seeing ran straight. Of course that's something I also never paid much attention to.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
I swage my own from parts I purchase out of McMaster Carr. Its probably not cost effective but if someone wants to send me the parts I'll return them a completed cable. Here is a few sample pics of how they look. These were made for my Farmall H.
I ordered a replacement cable from Ken Updike at Carter and Gruenewald just last year. I bet they still have them. It was upwards of $30 but is very good quality.
The four most expensive words in tractor restoration: "We might as well..."
looked at a tractor last week that had the battery cable and rear light wire in a cloth loom attached to the bottom of the gas tank and through the clip on the dash panel to hold it away from the clutch pedal.
I'm amazed at how much more you notice after you get involved in refurbishing one of these tractors. didn't see that at RPR last June, but it sure appeared original and correct
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
If you do a search on e-Bay for Farmall or Farmall Cub, there is a clip for that purpose being auctioned. Hey the guy wants $5.00 to start if I remember correctly.
Ellie does not have this clip, have yet to find a good one, so I am getting my buddy to make me a couple. You can see the clip in any of the Parts Manuals on the server.
At the moment, my battery cable runs under the pan, up by the clutch and over to the starter. It is a pain in the butt as it is constantly being rubbed by the clutch pedal and has rubbed through the insulation a couple of times. I guess I am going to have to get a new cable - tape only lasts so long
Lay your trained eyeball on the pedals to make sure the upper ends line up... most don't. I've found that when the pedals are bent (straightened) a little to make them line up nicely, it also makes a little more space for the cable.
It's surprising how far out of line they sometimes are. Tractorman has a clutch pedal on his demonstrator that has been bent the other direction to move it closer to the seat. I'm talking about the "easy" direction, sideways.
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
Heres the wiring diagram showing the routing of the battery cable under the gas tank.
If you would like a larger hi res file if this drop me an email.
15 posts • Page 1 of 1
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