Farmall Cub

by **Donny M** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:22 pm

I was a little concerned about putting the pulley back on. If it went back on as hard as it came off I was dreading it. So at 8:30 pm I decided to give it a try. Put the pulley in the oven (Merry said ok) and heated it up to 220 degrees. Went out to the shop to find a piece of flat steel that would work. Couldn't find any so used what I had:

After taking the pulley out of the oven it took about 2 minutes to press it back on. TG, big worry for nothing. THANK YOU REESE

by **johnbron** » Wed Apr 07, 2004 5:37 am

OK!!, I`ll bite. What is that "Reese" thing you are using that you added "Thanks" too :?:

.

by **Cub-Bud** » Wed Apr 07, 2004 6:47 am

Reese makes trailer hitches and receivers for automobiles/trucks. Looks like Donny used a Reese ball hitch to push the crank pulley back on the crank. :idea:

The threaded rod goes through the hole in the hitch where the hitch pin would normally go. GREAT thinking, Donny :!:

by **johnbron** » Wed Apr 07, 2004 6:58 am

Bud, Now with your help i recognize the Reese name on trailer tongue parts. That one Donny is using sure looks short to be a stinger for a receiver hitch if in fact that is what it is. Looks like a nut on bottom for ball attachment in picture though. Although unimportant I thought I would clutter up this post with trivial questions. "Ho-Hum"!!! :mrgreen:

by **Cub-Bud** » Wed Apr 07, 2004 7:07 am

Yep, does look a little short.

Donny will post soon and let us know exactly what it is he used.

by **Donny M** » Wed Apr 07, 2004 12:30 pm

Bud & JB,

You're both right

It's an adjustable height receiver hitch. Maybe this will clear things up.

Sorry for the confusion :wink:

by EZ » Wed Apr 07, 2004 4:13 pm

Donny,

How did things look when you hooked up that osilloscope to your cub :lol:

Did you replace the front oil seal, and use a speedy sleeve?

I guess the heat is not enough to hurt the seal?

by **Donny M** » Wed Apr 07, 2004 5:23 pm

EZ,

That's a Network Analyzer in the back ground. (nothing to do with Cubs, sorry) As for the heat and the seal only time will tell but that's why I only heated it up to 220. I did replace the seal but did not use a speedy sleeve, the pulley showed no signs of wear whatsoever. I did test fit the seal to make sure and it was nice and tight. I was amazed considering the condition of the rest of the tractor.

by **rleggitt** » Wed Apr 07, 2004 9:23 pm

Hi Donny,

Looks like you are making progress on your tractor. I just got mine from
the machine shop yesterday minus the head. I will soon start putting it
back together.

CUB BUD and I were having the same discussion about heating the pulley
as he was driving his dad's back on with a big block of wood. I have seen
where some said they heated to 345 deg F. Looks to me like that would
damage the oil seal. I was even considering doing mine that way until
I saw BUD drive his on cold.

by **Jim Becker** » Wed Apr 07, 2004 10:41 pm

At 220 degrees, you are barely hot enough to boil the water in the radiator. Operating temperature of much of the engine is well above that.

Here is a site with some operating temperatures that I think are pretty conservative. The lowest they quote is Nitrile at 225.

http://www.tobar.com/pdf/material_elastomer_selection.pdf

by **Donny M** » Wed Apr 07, 2004 11:14 pm

Jim,
The Nitrile or Buna-N is the same compound that most black "O" rings are made of. I think I was pretty safe by only heating the pulley to 220 as it cools somewhat before it makes contact with the seal. The crank makes a good heat sink.

I also think that the 225 number is a little conservative.

Farmall Cub

Use what you got!

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