Doing a garden with a cub

Fri Apr 16, 2004 11:42 pm


anyone know the minimum set of cub impliments for a 1/2 to 1 acre garden?

plowing.Tilling, planting, cultivating etc.

I want to use my cub and I better collect the impliments over the next fe months so I can start next year.

Please describe each with it's intended use.

My Granbdfather was the farmer... I'm an engineer... enough said.


Sat Apr 17, 2004 7:44 am

Dave, You'll need a plow - (either a moldboard or disc plow), some type of land drag to level the high spots after plowing. This can be home-made. And a disk harrow. That will allow you to get the seed bed prepared. As far as planting goes, check some of the gardening catalogs from the big nurseries. There are walk-behind planters and some that can be adapted to the cub for pulling behind it. You could get a cub planter, but my experience is that they sell at a premium price and in my area, are extremely rare. Of course, you can plant seeds by hand too. Then a good set of cultivators to keep the weeds down and you're in business. I'm sure others on the board will add their preferences to your post.
You may want to check out the implement pictures at the T.M. Tractor website to give you some idea of what these implements look like and how they are mounted. Also check Rudi's manual pages and look at the implement manuals for more information.

Have fun!

Sat Apr 17, 2004 8:27 am

Good question and answer for us non-farmer types!!

Sat Apr 17, 2004 8:32 am

Daveland, if you also use your cub for lawn mowing, you will soon learn that the amount of time it takes to change from a belly mower to a cultivator leads to the need for another cub. :lol:

Sat Apr 17, 2004 8:45 am

John. You read my mind exactly word for word!

Sat Apr 17, 2004 8:45 am


K, BigDog has basically said it all, and I will just add a few refinements gleaned from the experience I have gained over the last little bit with the Cub and over the last 20 years with a Massey and my friend - "Manual Labour" :roll: :lol:

Plow - Cub-193 Moldboard Plow. This is a good plow and will meet probably all of your garden need. The 189 is a bonus and not necessary. The 193 judging by the for sale ads and post seems to run in price depending on condition between $75 and $150.00 US which is fair.

Cultivators - the Cub-144 Cultivator is a real assest for truck garden work, which is the kind of garden I have - you know, beans, peas, corn, carrots, potatoes and your other staples. (Tomatoes and Cukes are in another garden). Make sure that you get the moldboard for hilling or the disks - I prefer the moldboard myself as they are more traditional and work really well. I have the spring teeth version and they work very well in our mixed soils here in NB. I would also recommend that not only make sure you have 3 spring teeth per tool bar in the rear, but that you also have 3 spring teeth for the front tool bar. I only have 1 and am now looking for 2 more pairs so I can be a little more flexible when cultivating.

I would also recommend a set of plant guards if you can find them. They are very useful although not necessary. In my case they are because for some reason, as I cultivate, some of the younger plants get covered - which does not endear me to Emilie to say the least - so it is important that I have a set :roll: :lol:

Now for what I consider one of the more important tools - which I do not have yet but everyone should have if they are doing a garden. This is the disk harrow. I have a spring harrow - works nice, but still leave clumps after even many passes in a chess board pattern. The disk harrow is much better, whether it be an old horse drawn pull behind, a fast hitch version or the Cub-38 lift type. With a disc harrow, you do not need a tiller! When done properly the disc harrow leaves a well cut/no clumps and airy soil that is wonderful to work with, hills easy and provides sufficient air and water to young plants starting to grow.

One other nice to have is a "horse hoe". I don't know what it is called elsewhere, but that is what it is called here. It is basically a dual moldboard plow that is used primarily for hilling. It is used to make the initial hills for planting and then used after cultivating to inhibit weed and grass growth where none is wanted. The moldboards on the 144 can do most of this, but it is not ideal. Keep looking in the plans section as that is one of my must do projects before planting time this year.

Hope this helps, sorry for being wordy, but hey Dats Me :lol:

Sat Apr 17, 2004 8:54 am

Hi Dave here are some pics of my disk and spring tooth harrow that I use they work fine. But the cat,s meow are the cultivators. I will get some pics when I put them on.

Dave ... 38&.src=ph

Sat Apr 17, 2004 8:58 am

I'll add one more note. If you get a molboard plow rather than a disk plow, make sure you get the depth control lever that mounts to the right final drive. Many of them have been left on tracotrs and the plow gets sold seperately. They definitely are needed, that is assuming your tractor does not have a fast hitch.

Mon Apr 19, 2004 8:21 am

I use my cub for a garden of about a half acre. Since I surrounded it with a tall fence it became hard to run the cub next to the sides so I started using my Gravely walk behind for most of the work. I think anyone who owns a cub would also love these Graveleys.

I use the rotary plow attachment to make 30" wide raised beds with a 30" untilled stip between them. I mulch the raised bed heavy to control weed and simply mow the strips with the 30" mower attachment. This cuts my weeding time to next to nothing, as long as I train vine plants to stay in their beds.

For potatoes I plow leaving a furrow down the middle of the bed to allow me to cover the fruit as they grow. Everything else has the furrows on the outside of the beds.

The grassy strips help control errosion from heavy rain and are easy to maintain.

I like this way since everyone gets so busy in the summer and you can only cultivate for so long and then the plant get real big.

Wed Apr 21, 2004 1:31 pm

Hi all
Thanks for the replies!! Boy I got more than I expected!!!

Sorry I took so long to get back... I was changing the radiator on the cub and just got it going again last night. Now I hope it won't overheat when mowing this summer.

The old radiator was more than 1/2 clogged!!

Rudi. No appologies needed for being wordy!!
My desire is to plant beans, corn, peas etc.

I will probably look for the 193 plow. I only mow the horse pasture once or twice a year to knock down weeds the horses don't eat. So I should be be able to leave the mower off most of the year.

I have a drawbar on the back of the tractor ( no fast hitch) does the plow connect to the drawbar or have it's own support?

The disc plows ( 2 rows or discs at an angle ) appear to be $400 to $500 locally. Is this a fair price?

Is there a diifernece between a disc plow and a disc cultivator? or is it just semantics?

So lets see

Step 1 : Plow with moldboard plow to break up sod. Leave sit for 3-4days?? or more.

Step 2 : Land drag with homemade wire drag?
step 3 : disc harrow to break up clumps.
step 4 : make hills for planting ( with the plow?)
step 5 : manually seed.
step 6 : disc or tine cultivator to control weeds until plants are too tall.
step 7 : Hard manual labor !!


My father-in-law has a walk behind gravely, no tiller attachment just the mower.
Built like a tank!!

Dave in Ontario.

My grandfather was a wheat farmer in Manitoba for 30 years. Your fields and the cub look nice!! I like the disc plow. makes a nice smooth field. Thanks for the pics!!

Thanks to all who replied.

Wed Apr 21, 2004 6:07 pm

Let me throw my 2 cents worth in here for a poor mans way to make a garden. A rear tool bar with a set of 3 blade ridgers and a set of hillers for the front will make a beautiful garden. For 1/2 acre just one hiller in front will work fine but you have to make a trip on each side of the row. Set the ridgers to cut the ground with the blades about 1/2" from touching each other and it will cut better than a gang disk. When the ground is cut, move the left ridger to the right side of the tool bar and the right one to the left side and it will be set to build the rows up. With the rows built and garden planted and plants up 3 or 4 inches, set the hillers to cut the row down as close to the plants as deemed safe, side dress, then set the hillers to pull the row back up. Actually, a set of hillers will make a nice row once the ground is cut up and you can leave the ridgers set to cut the ground. This is the way most gardens are made here, but a few years ago I bought a set of gang disk and I use them.

Wed Apr 21, 2004 7:45 pm


In answer to some of your questions - go to the Manual Server. The Owners Manuals and Setup Instructions are in the Cub Implement Manuals section.

Read em a couple of times then print them off so you can take them down to the barn with you to set up your implements when you get it. It takes a little head scratching the first time or two so don't get frazzled by it.

I am still learning. :roll: :lol:

As for your steps, most is correct. Hill with hillers (part of cultivator set or a horse hoe) Go to a general store around your area where the old timers hang out, they will probably know what a horse hoe is and maybe even where to get one! If you can, get two. One to convert to a tractor mount and the other to restore so your Grandkids will know what one looks like!

I would probably skip the land drag thing. The disc harrow will accomplish what you need done. Don't forget to pay Manual real well - a few cold ones usually suffices :lol:

Wed Apr 21, 2004 10:35 pm

daveland wrote:The disc plows ( 2 rows or discs at an angle ) appear to be $400 to $500 locally. Is this a fair price?

Is there a diifernece between a disc plow and a disc cultivator? or is it just semantics?

A disk plow is a large disk that turns the soil the same as a molboard plow. A disk harrow (frequently just called a disk) has several smaller disks set at angles to break up clods left by the plow. A disk cultivator has small disks mounted to a cultivator frame for cleaning weeds around rows. At least thats the way us Missouri hillbillys look at it. $400 to $500 for a disk harrow is a little high for my area, but may not be in your area.

Thu Apr 22, 2004 12:41 pm

Your soil type will dicatate a lot about what tooling on the Cub will do the best job. Depending on your soil type, and the quality of the disk you have, you may not need a plow. In eastern NC our soils are light enough that a good disking once or twice will make a good seedbed. Since I like to plow, I usually moldboard plow the garden in the early Spring. A Cub disk is pretty light though, so you may be better satisfied with the plow.

We garden with a Super A but the principle is the same. We use a set of disk hillers, and two large (16" or so) sweeps on the back to split the middles. Sometime we use the "baccer plows" (IH called them potato hillers, some people call them "buzzard wings") as they are not as aggressive as the hillers.

You might also try to find a good pair of rolling cultivators for the Cub-144 cultivator. You can buy the new assemblies at places like Agri-Supply. They do a wonderful job of cultivation, particularly when the ground has crusted due to heavy rains. The five-spider models can pretty well elliminate the need for any sweeps or shovels on the front, and the faster you go, the better they work! :lol:


Thu Apr 22, 2004 8:30 pm

Super A wrote: A Cub disk is pretty light though, so you may be better satisfied with the plow.
The frame on top of the pull type tandem disk is just the right size to put a concrete block on each section. Sure makes it cut better.