Farmall Cub

I'm looking at the old seal and it has the spring side facing out. Was this installed wrong? All my other seals I"m installing with the spring facing toward the oil.

Having just gone through this, yes the seal is in backwards. The spring side must be toward the crankshaft. Also make sure you have the correct oil seal retainer on your engine. The older ones do not hold the seal tightly and will leak oil between the seal and retainer. The only way that I know how to tell the difference between a good retainer and a old retainer is the fit of the seal when you press it into the retainer. It should "the seal" press in the retainer quite hard. If not get a new retainer it's $126. at a case ih dealer, but it doesn't leak.
Good Luck Mike

Mike yes I read your previous post but you didn't specify which side of the seal was facing in. Since my old seal was not leaking and the spring side was facing out I thought there was a chance this was the right way to install this seal. Mine has a double contact point one springed and one not. I will install the new seal spring side in.
Thanks

If you have the old retainer you can use loctite, JB Weld, or some have used windshield sealer.

Took the seal out and reinstalled with spring facing toward oil. I had to use a rubber mallet to install it so I'm hoping this will work. I would have used some sealer like John recomended just as a precaution but didn't have any on hand. Thanks for the input guys. Tomorrow I'll be putting the engine on the transmission but have to wait on the machine shop work on my idler gear bearing before I can finish the job. Getting a little anxious to finish especially since the grass is getting pretty high!

If a rubber mallet was needed to get the seal in the retainer, you are in "good shape". John is right on with the use of a sealer. When I reworked my '55 lo-boy, I bought a new retainer...VERY expensive. When I reworked my '49 FCUB, the seal was loose in the retainer so, I used black RTV silicone on the seal and let it "set-up" for a couple days before installing....no leak.

I was told that using a sealer to hold the seal in the retainer would not last very long due to the constant friction on the seal by the crankshaft. Based on the experience out there, I guess that's not true. I bought a slightly larger metal seal, instead of the rubberized seal from the dealer, and had the retainer reworked by the machine shop to hold the seal. Everything fit real tight and the total cost was $38. The tractor is recoupled, but it's not finished and hasn't been cranked to find out about leaks. Will find out soon whether my solution will work. I'm also anxious to start cutting 3 acres of grass.

Joey, sounds like you came up with a good solution to a problem that has bugged a lot of people.