Farmall Cub

Here is a link to some pictures of my battery cable installation:

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=4214097&uid=1221583&members=1

Looks real nice Bigdog

Bigdog,

Your pictures are great. I wish we all would take time to make photos of different repair proceedures. I hve one question: Wouldn't it be safer to connect the ground cable to the battery LAST? That way, if your wrench slipped when tightening the negative cable you wouldn't create a short. I was in a hurry once when helping a student with his car and didn't unhook the ground. I started to hook up his amplifier and it seemed like a good idea until the wrench slipped and I welded it to my wedding band WHILE I WAS STILL WEARING IT. Now I have a nice scar around my ring finger and some gold plating on my wrench. Anyway, not trying to be nit picky, just want everyone to be safe. Remember unhook the ground FIRST and reconnect it LAST.

Well, actually, I did connect the ground cable last. However, for the "staged" pictures, I placed the ground cable on first. I should have thought about following the correct procedure for the pictures.

Bigdog, Nice pics.I like how you have the ground.I snaked mine out the box to the bottom of the floorboard. That seems to be easier.

Hello BigDog

That looks good. Many Cubs..including mine..skip the cable looms and run straight line to the battery. I want to fix mine this way soon.

Did you use the welder's cable you told me about or order the cable from OEM?

Did you need to replace any of the guides / looms. One of mine is rusted off under floor. Looks like it had been spot welded at factory. I think I saw these in the OEM catalog pdf.

I measured as you said with a string and the cable length is 7 ft.

If you used welder's cable how did you do the terminal ends?

Thanks

Mike

I like your positive ground cable setup, i'll duplicate it on mine. i have seen an additional clip on the side of the dash with the battery lead and rear light wiring through it to keep it away from the clutch. i assume that would be more original, correct police and all, but having the battery cable that close to moving parts somehow always bothered me.
thanks for the pic's. i didn't know how the cable attached to the bottom of the pan.

mltiema wrote:Hello BigDog

That looks good. Many Cubs..including mine..skip the cable looms and run straight line to the battery. I want to fix mine this way soon.

Did you use the welder's cable you told me about or order the cable from OEM?

Did you need to replace any of the guides / looms. One of mine is rusted off under floor. Looks like it had been spot welded at factory. I think I saw these in the OEM catalog pdf.

I measured as you said with a string and the cable length is 7 ft.

If you used welder's cable how did you do the terminal ends?

Thanks

Mike

Mike, the cable is 1/0 welding cable with crimped ends. All of my looms were intact.
It's interesting that the cable I replaced was the original 55 year-old cable. The insulation literally crumbled from the cable as I fished the cable out.

Hello again

Did you use your original terminal ends on the cable...crimped on, or new ones?

Thanks

Mike

Daniel: That wedding ring incident is just another pitfall of married life. Did you tell your wife it was her fault?

BD: That slide show is mighty fancy for a son of mine. I'll have to catch up witch ya. You always were my fav son.

I like the way that when you put the covers back on the bat box, the ground cable is hidden. Good job.

Jim Becker had posted in a previous thread on this topic that the correct length was 84" for this cable. so your string length was an accurate measurement.

Mike, the cable ends are new. And yes, the cable is exactly 84".

Thanks for the improved starter wiring configuration. I'm just at the point in my 51 rehab where I'm beginning to think about putting the wiring back together. . . .

I understand from your comments that I can buy welders cable and get end connectors crimped on (NAPA?). What about the braided ground strap? Can you tell me where I can purchase one and what length is recommended to route it similarly to your installation. Also, I remember hearing that a fellow (in TN was it?) was making reproduction battery boxes. Anyone know who that was? Do the repro boxes come with the tailight bracket?

Thanks

Bigdog

Thanks for the pictures, minet was really cobbled up, so I have no clue on how it was to to be routed or anything. I hope you don't mind but I saved all of them to my hard drive, for future reference. I hope that I didn't infringe on any copyright stuff here.

I do have a question for anyone who has or could make me up a good detailed print on the complete battery box, with all the demisions???

Mine is completely rusted out due to battery acid and I want to fabricate a new one from stainless steel and then paint it to match the rest of my tractor. I have part of the box, but they bottom tray was completely gone, all was left was four bolts with the hexes rusted off and I had to drill them out.

ALSO, did they have lid or cover? if so then mine is gone.

If anyone could do me this BIG favor, I'd be forever grateful. I know that I can buy new ones, but I love using st. st. whenever possible.

John N.