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Depth Handle Blues

Posted: Tue May 04, 2004 7:25 pm
by Tom Z.
I've gotten a 193 Moldboard plow for my cub (thanks to Mr. Willer) and a depth control handle, but now that I'm mounting it I've got a problem. The handle won't clear the tire lugs and the release rod is pressed tight against the tire between the lugs.

I put 9.5 tires on with agriculture treads thinking that was going to be o.k.. Should I try and bend (actually it would be unbending) the handle? I don't have a good torch available, so I was thinking of putting blocks under it, jacking up a vehicle, then letting it softly down on the area I need to unbend.

I also noticed that one of the bolts on the main mounting bracket for the handle rubs the tire. On the TM Tractor website the impliment hook-up picture shows that this is the case with that tractor too (ring on tire in same spot as bolt). Should I replace it with a hex head bolt flipped the other way, so the head it towards the tire?

Any suggestions are welcome. Now that we've had the last freeze here in NW Ohio, I really have to get that ground plowed.

Thanks for the help.

Tom Z.

Posted: Tue May 04, 2004 8:28 pm
by George Willer
Tom,

Yes, it's time to start the plowing, and it sounds like you are about ready.

The plowing tractor I showed you has a set of original 8.00x24 tires, and they run very close to the bolt you mention... about 1/2" clearance. The recommended wheel spacing is 44", but with the 9.5x24's, they probably should be set to 48". At that spacing, I doubt you will have to do anything to the lever.

To avoid having to switch sides with the wheels, I would first try moving the rim out by putting the loops on the inside of the center disk. That will gain you 2".

Were you able to get the frozen coulter bearings freed up?

Posted: Tue May 04, 2004 8:38 pm
by Tom Z.
George,

The coulter wheel was not too hard to free up. I disassembled all the parts, wire brushed them, took emory paper to the bearing surfaces, put in new zerks, reassembled it, greased it, and it spins just fine.

Some time with an angle grinder lightly skimming the surface took most of the rust off the face and landside. I was trying to be careful not change the shape, since I understand there's a precise science to shaping the plow.

If I move the wheels out as you said, should I move the front wheels out too, or won't it matter that much?

I appreciate the assistance.

Tom Z.

Posted: Tue May 04, 2004 9:00 pm
by George Willer
Tom,

I'm glad the coulter worked out. You're going to have a good plow reasonably. :lol:

I don't think you will have to open the can of worms of adjusting the front axle. There are some pitfalls there. The front wheel will still be in the furrow.

Furrowed Ground Not Brow

Posted: Fri May 07, 2004 9:04 pm
by Tom Z.
Last night, I moved the wheels out farther. Now there's plenty of clearance.

After supper tonight, I put the plow on. Although darkness was getting close, I just had to give it a try.

I went to the garden spot and tried it out. That plow just cuts like a knife through the dirt. I did hit a few suprise tree roots, and the furrows aren't perfect, but for a first time I am proud!

Everything was going great until I ran out of gas, then it was too dark to continue (I don't have the headlights back on yet). I thought I'd have enough fuel, but I didn't consider it would be sitting at an angle with one side in the furrow.

Tomorrow morning, (barring hail) I'll try to finish it up before I go to work.

Thanks, George, and all the folks who've help me with responses to questions and posts in the archive.

Tom Z.