Trying to make progress on my 51 Cub rehab, I have a couple or more questions for the experienced Cub rebuilders.
1. Distributor lube plugs: I seem to recall hearing that these (2) plugs should be removed and replaced with Zerk grease fittings. The one nearest the cap turned out easily - the one nearest the governor is hopelessly frozen. Is it worth drilling it out, or should I leave it alone?
2. Radiator Drain Plug: I was very thankful today that I was able to remove it easily - have read many horror stories on this site about that plug. What do you guys recommend to keep it unstuck? Teflon tape, pipe dope, etc.?
3. Oil Pan Seal: do you recommend a gasket? Does anyone simply use the tubes of black RTV gasket making compound? Is that OK on the final drive pans also?
4. Zerk Fittings: is it worth replacing all of the Zerk fittings on the tractor in case their clogged, etc?
I'd appreciate your experiences
Thanks
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Plugs and Seals and Stuff
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- Bill V in Md
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Paul, I recommend using a good anti-seize compound on the threads of the radiator drain plug. "NeverSeize" is one brand I am familiar with. Regarding the oil pan, I prefer using a gasket, but I also apply a light coating of "Permatex" on the mating flanges.......Bill V
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- John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Radiator drain plug- I bought a brass plug from my local auto parts store.
Oil pan, make sure it is straight, if not lay it on a board and tap with small hammer. I'd use a gasket, maybe silicone permatex too if you wish.
Zerk fittings - I'd only replace ones that are stuck. Try to grease them. If they are stuck you will know as soon as you pump the gun.
Oil pan, make sure it is straight, if not lay it on a board and tap with small hammer. I'd use a gasket, maybe silicone permatex too if you wish.
Zerk fittings - I'd only replace ones that are stuck. Try to grease them. If they are stuck you will know as soon as you pump the gun.
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you are part of the problem!!!
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Paul,
For #1, I'll defer to the old pros but I believe in 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' unless you just need something to do.
#2, The anti-seize mentioned by Bill is good stuff although I did use teflon tape on mine and it has worked fine so far.
#3, I just did mine a couple weeks ago and just went with the gasket and it is doing fine. Typically I always try to use the IH gasket unless there is a reason to use something more form fitting (i.e. damage or funny bumps that you can't get out). As long as there is pretty smooth surface and it is very clean, I don't recall ever having a problem- cars or tractor.
#4, refer to the second half of my answer to #1. If it is damaged, replace it. I'm not a mechanic but of all the grease fittings I've greased, you'll know pretty quick if it is clogged once you start pumping grease. If it is and not otherwise damaged you can take it off and just clean it. If you have spare ones, as I usually do, I'll put a new one on and throw the clogged one in some kerosen, clean it up, and save for future use.
Hope this helps, Andy
For #1, I'll defer to the old pros but I believe in 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' unless you just need something to do.
#2, The anti-seize mentioned by Bill is good stuff although I did use teflon tape on mine and it has worked fine so far.
#3, I just did mine a couple weeks ago and just went with the gasket and it is doing fine. Typically I always try to use the IH gasket unless there is a reason to use something more form fitting (i.e. damage or funny bumps that you can't get out). As long as there is pretty smooth surface and it is very clean, I don't recall ever having a problem- cars or tractor.
#4, refer to the second half of my answer to #1. If it is damaged, replace it. I'm not a mechanic but of all the grease fittings I've greased, you'll know pretty quick if it is clogged once you start pumping grease. If it is and not otherwise damaged you can take it off and just clean it. If you have spare ones, as I usually do, I'll put a new one on and throw the clogged one in some kerosen, clean it up, and save for future use.
Hope this helps, Andy
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