Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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Also your coil maybe starting to break down when it gets hot causing your stalling problem. Most times they will just quite on you but I have seen them start to miss fire. Its hard to trouble shoot them if the problem comes and goes or doesnt shut the engine down completly.
Had that happen to me aobut 15 years ago. Was interesting to figure out, it acted like a dirty carb, but was the coil.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
I have been running the cub now for a couple of weeks. All the ideas have been a big help.
The cub ran fine for a while after making the adjustments, but still gets hot after about an hour. But I have another idea on the cause.
Could the woods mower spindle bearings be over heating and cuasing the additional load on the engine?
The additional load of the mower does cause it to run hotter due to the load. And it seems to run fine for hours when not mowing.
The cub and mower are all original parts, for what I can tell. And not too much had been done to the ol' girl over the years. She still runs great most of the time.
This might be over the top, but have you checked your governor as well? Is it working properly? Is the governor rod moving freely? Is the spring opening and closing? Does the engine speed up properly when load is increased?
Might want to check that out. Also, check out your rpm's on low idle and full bore -- low idle should be between 400 and 600 rpm and full bore should be anywhere from 1600 - 1800 rpms.
Make sure that the governor rod is free, if not spray with a GOOD penetrating oil such as Loctite Solovo Rust, Kroil or your favourite. Just did one last night - governor spring is stuck tighter than can be and is causing overheating problems. Probably not the only cause, but is a factor.
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