She still smokes!

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She still smokes!

Postby Steve Ruddy » Tue May 11, 2004 10:42 pm

Well I finally got Ladybugs engine over haul done.

Crank service
Main Bearings
Reconditioned Rods
New Pistons, and Rings
Rod Bearings
New Valves, Seats, Springs
Valve seats ground
New Idler Gear bearing and shaft
All new gaskets and seals
Clutch and throw out bearing

But she still burns oil. I put 3 quarts in initially and for some reason the dip stick showed it needing more so I put in about another 3/4 of a quart. I used her for about 3 hours mowing and noticed blue smoke now and then. Mostly when throttling up and ever so slightly while running but I had to look just right to see it. I also noticed black smoke when throttling up after a short period of idle. I was able to eliminate the black smoke with an adjustment of the carbs idle screw. I then noticed the next day the oil level was over full so I took about 3/4 of a quart out. I then ran her for about 10 minutes and re torqued the head. I think this may have slowed the oil burning ever so slightly but I can still see a puff of blue smoke when throttling up and somtime when just runnig although not always. It definitly doesn't smoke when you firts start her up. Any suggestions?
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Postby Donny M » Tue May 11, 2004 11:10 pm

Steve,

The over full condition could be leakage from the touch control pump. Keep an eye on the oil level and the hydro level.
If the oil pan is getting too full that could be causing the bule smoke.
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Postby johnbron » Tue May 11, 2004 11:22 pm

Gotta give that engine a chance to break-in and seat properly. Then your smoke should be gone. :?:
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Postby Jim Becker » Tue May 11, 2004 11:24 pm

How many hours has it run since the overhaul? Wait until it has at least 10 hours on it before you even think about oil burning. Then pick an EXACT method for checking the oil. (i.e. before starting after sitting over night etc.). Then see how much oil disappears over some reasonable number of running hours. You will probably find you have no problem.

If the level goes up, you are getting hydraulic oil into the engine.
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Postby artc » Wed May 12, 2004 8:25 am

3 quarts is the correct oil capacity. there have been a couple of conversations on this forum about the possibility of inserting the oil dipstick so that it goes ABOVE the oil pickup tube in the oilpan. when that happens, you get an erronious(sp) reading on the dipstick. i suspect that is what has happened in your case.
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Postby Steve Ruddy » Wed May 12, 2004 10:25 am

Gotta give that engine a chance to break-in and seat properly.


What actually happens during the break in seating process?

How many hours has it run since the overhaul?


Only about 4 hours so far. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed for the break in period to eliminated the smoke.

there have been a couple of conversations on this forum about the possibility of inserting the oil dipstick so that it goes ABOVE the oil pickup tube in the oilpan


I think this is what certianly must have happened because I make sure I push it in all the way and don't have a touch control pump leak. Thanks I'll be carefull of the angle when putting in the dip stick from now on. I couldn't have done any type of damage from runnig her over full for those first 3 hours could I ?
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Postby George Willer » Wed May 12, 2004 11:42 am

Steve,

You probably didn't do any damage. The failure mode from over-filling is for the crankshaft to whip the oil into a foam. Then the oil pump can't pump the foam, so bearings fail for lack of lube. It would require extended running at high RPM for that to happen. Did you notice a drop in oil pressure while running fast?

Does the engine now have noticably more power?
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Postby Oscar Meier » Wed May 12, 2004 3:42 pm

It usually takes 8 to 12 hours of operation for a rebuild to wear-in. To get the rings to set(edges sharpen to seal tight & scrape oil off the cylinder walls), oil seals to expand, and bearings to polish you need some run time.

If you did overfill the oil, I doublt that you did any damage. It takes about 2000 to 2500 rpm to really foam up the oil - and extended running time to really run an engine dry.

I would just get a few hours of low RPM light work run time and monitor the oil levels - it should get better and better :)

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Postby Jim Becker » Wed May 12, 2004 7:35 pm

artc wrote:there have been a couple of conversations on this forum about the possibility of inserting the oil dipstick so that it goes ABOVE the oil pickup tube in the oilpan.


I have only run across one person that has managed to do that. He had the long dipstick and had his dipstick tube installed backwards. If you have the long tube, it belongs with the bend towards the engine, bringing the digstick to a more upright position.
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Postby Steve Ruddy » Thu May 13, 2004 10:33 am

Did you notice a drop in oil pressure while running fast?


Yes it did. It was at the L before I added to much and at the O after I added more and ran it for about 3 hours. I don't beleive it got bad enough to whip to a foam though.

If you have the long tube, it belongs with the bend towards the engine, bringing the digstick to a more upright position.


Here is a photo of the dipstick. I'm installing it as shown which put the LOW and HIGH words facing up. Jim after your post I looked at it more closely and noticed it was bent up. The photo shows it after I straightened it hopefully this is how it should be. After straightening the dipstick the oil level is showing over the HIGH again so I guess I'll drain some more out.

Image
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