Farmall Cub

I needed a way to mount the mid-mount grader blade on Scruffy while retaining the regular drawbar. Jim Becker referred me to Rudi's site where he had posted the dimensions for making an alternate drawbar. I made it a little differently so I could be sure of having the exact width while also having the holes properly located. I wasn't confident of predicting how the two bends would work out... so I made it in three pieces and then welded them together. This is a procedure I would recommend to anyone else who wants to make one. It came out very well.

George
My alt draw bar is long on one side and short on the other side for mounting. did you hook yours up different or I wonder if mine was modified. It is hangning on the barn wall I have never had it on. I wonder now if it is even a alt draw bar. things that just made me go hummmmmmmmmm.
Chad

I had a local machine shop make me one, and he also made it in 3 pieces and welded it together.

George,
Looks like the one that TM Tractor sells for $50 bucks or so. I've found it works really well on the mid-mount blade, not so well with the moldboard plow. I had to shim to get depth, and it puts the plow in the middle of tires. Be neat if it could be modified to work with the plow better.
http://www.tm-tractor.com/gb/845_001.htm

HR,

As you discovered, you need a different set of holes to use a plow with this alternate drawbar and it can't 'float' with the plow's depth controller. If shimming works for your plow depth adjustment, use your IH drawbar as a template to locate the proper location for mounting the plow beam.

Lurker Carl

Mr. GW,

That looks real nice. But I'm thinking Bigdog and I need to take a few of those wooden tool boxes from you so we would have a chance of keeping up.

George,
Looks good. I can never bend anything and get it where I want it. But then with my welding skill, it probably wouldn't be an improvement.

Chad,
George made his alternate drawbar to match the Cub-54 blade. Yours is from a Cub-54A blade and was changed to make allowance for the Fast-Hitch depth control. It is slightly more complicated and requires 2 or 3 additional parts (depending on the version). I think Rudi has added my sketch of the 54A substitute drawbar to his server.

HR's,
Besides the problems already mentioned using this part for the plow, it also leaves the plow too far to the rear. Using a regular Cub drawbar with the plow will be much more satisfactory.

Using a regular Cub drawbar with the plow will be much more satisfactory

Jim is right. I just have more implements than tractors. A problem I'm slowly working on. By the way. When changing a regular drawbar from the rear to forward position, do you have to take it completely off the tractor, or does it just flip from rear to front? Doesn't look to be enough ground clearance, but I'm recalling from memory.
HR

For the plow, you not only reverse the whole drawbar, you move it from the mounting pads at the back to the mounting pads at the front of the final drives.

Plus you remove the bolts that hold it to the mounting brackets so it will pivot on the pins, which allows the depth control lever ot move it up and down. If you aren't familiar with the depth control lever, it mounts on the right final drive and has a link that goes down to the reveresed drawbar.

Jim
thanks for clearing that up for me! I thought maybe what I had wasn't what I had if you get what I am trying to say!
Thanks
Chad

George:

I think this one makes #4 of the possible additions

Jim,

Your comments have generated a question in my mind. I have a 54A blade, but a non-Fast Hitch Cub. Would the 54 style alternate drawbar work for me to mid-mount my blade? TIA.

As long as your tractor does not have a Fast-Hitch, either version of the substitute drawbar will work. The early version will not work with a Fast-Hitch, the later works on a tractor equiped either way.

why do they use a alt. drawbar for mid mounting why not use another standard drawbar?