Engine valve 'job'? and welcome a new Cub, please.......

Tue May 18, 2004 6:26 am

Welcome to me! and thanks to you guys - this site is great and has already answered lots of questions. The story: I'm a shadetree mechanic and am rebuilding a '62 Cub (yellow/white) for use in my sister's 3.5 acre property. The Cub was used for golf-course mowing with gang mowers for years, and suffered a lack of maintenance, but is basically sound. We got it with a belly mower, sickle-bar and 2 sets of 3-reel gang mowers. *heavy sigh* the disk harrow and York rake disappeared, though.

Plans are to find a front-end bucket, snow plow and whatever other cool implements that would be of use to my sis in her quest to develop the perfect suburban property - no heavy farming is planned or allowed.

So - a weak engine. My brother-in-law said you could drive it or run the mower deck - but not both at the same time. Compression was 75, 90, 25 and 100. I found pretty badly burnt exhaust valves in cylinders one and 3. This Cub is not going to be a perfect restoration; nor is it going to spend days out in the field pulling plows.

Is it acceptable to replace the valves (all of 'em, probably) and grind/lap them in place? I'm not into a major engine job and the cylinders look good (and hold oil).

Thanks in advance


Tue May 18, 2004 7:04 am

welcome, neighbor :!: sounds like you have some interesting mowers with that cub.
as to a couple of your questions. the one arm loader for the cub placed a lot of strain on the front end. useful as a manure loader, but not much heavier than that.
as to your valves, if the seats are good, you can grind them and replace the bad valves. if i was that far, i'd pull the pistons and replace rings, etc. as needed.

Tue May 18, 2004 7:19 am

Howdy do, neighbor! Thanks for the reply! I've got tons of questions, but I'll place them in separate posts. As far as the rings go, I'm not really into pulling the crank - there's too many variables unless something cataclysmic happens. The engine was quiet and smooth - just anemic.

Who do you use for parts, please? I've been going to Grundel's up in Torrington. They're great to deal with, but are not IH dealers, so everything is a special order. The Cub Cadet guy in Southington - I forget the name, but it used to be Tolle's Equipment - isn't um, er, responsive..........

Tue May 18, 2004 7:49 am

You may find that ordering from Carter & Gruenewald online might be an answer. I'm sure any local machine shop can get the valves for you.

By the way, welcome to the board!

Tue May 18, 2004 7:50 am

call Carter and Gruenewald in Wisconsin for cub parts @ 608-455-2411 Chad, Dave, or Bermuda Ken. they are Case IH and have parts.

you need not remove the crank to pop the pistons out. but you do need probably to remove the ridge at the top of the cylinders.

if you need a place to check out your gang mowers, check out http://www.qvea.org/qvea_frames.asp the Zagray Farm Museum.

enjoy your cub :)

Tue May 18, 2004 8:22 am

Rob, welcome aboard. I see alot of people looking for gang mowers both for use and as a restoration project. You may be able to recover a portion of the purchase expnse for your sister by selling them. You can get an idea of their price by checking Ebay's completed sales.

Tue May 18, 2004 7:38 pm


Welcome to the forum and to the Cub Family :D

As far as the valve lapping, George Willer submitted an article on that very subject just a little while ago. You can find it on the Manual Server at the link below under Maintenance Tips and Techniques.

Enjoy playing with yer yaller and white Cub! btw, can you post pics of the reel mower setup :?:

Glad to have you aboard :!: