Tue May 18, 2004 1:02 pm
Well I was in seventh heaven at being able to find a Cub hood in perfect cosmetic condition with lights for an even swap for my hood that would need a day at a auto-body shop to make it correct.
Problem that I just found is that the bottom of tank is rusted through in corner where it meets the instrument panel, About the length of 6"s. A radiator shop in town says it may be possible to clean the affected area and repair with solder???. Anybody tackled this problem & have a solution or better advise?.
(PICTURE-LINK) http://[Sorry: Tinypic.com not allowed].com/3mhi
Tue May 18, 2004 1:26 pm
i think i would repair that with a fiberglass repair kit on the outside. clean and prep the surface first, of course. after that repair, then a POR15 or other inside tank repair product to clean up the rust that must be on the inside.
i fixed a gas tank on a 1970 plymouth duster that way once, worked perfect
Tue May 18, 2004 3:13 pm
Braze the outside and line the inside with an Eastwood Gas tank kit.
Tue May 18, 2004 4:07 pm
JB - by the time you cut all of the rusty stuff off of that you're gonna have a big hole! If all of the fumes are out of the tank you can cut the nasty stuff off and weld a patch in. If it were me, from the looks of that one, I'd look for another.
Tue May 18, 2004 4:36 pm
There isn`t a trace of gas odor/fumes & I dont think it has had gas in it for at least 20-years so I am not afraid to put the torch to it. I must have got a 1/2-gallon of rust dust and scale out of it.
(I would like to know how you can use a liquid sealer in the tank when it has a baffle wall inside going across the center of the tank.)
B.D., I gotta fix this one as they are too hard to find in any kind of decent shape at all. This one is perfect with no dings or swales. Except for that small rust-out area the metal is very sound.
Tue May 18, 2004 6:20 pm
Regarding getting the liquid sealer into the back of the tank:
I just finished three (3) last evening. What you do is to let the liquid
puddle in the bottom channel in the tank and slowly lift the front of
the tank [will flow to behind the baffle] then quickly lift the front
and begin to slowly roll the tank in a three dimensional elliptical path
and then set the tank flat and repeat about 4 or 5 times. You then can do the same for the front portion of the tank. I have a mechanics mirror and I can check the front portion. I use this as a gauge. When the front looks good I then go back and repeat the process a couple of time for the back
portion just to make sure it is coated.
By-the-way, I use 1/2 can of POR 15. I have found that this is enough
to provide a good coat.
Hope this helps.
Tue May 18, 2004 6:38 pm
Johnbron, I'll try lots of things myself, including some I shouldn't, but this is one I'd take to the radiator shop and let them do it.
Tue May 18, 2004 7:28 pm
John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:Johnbron, I'll try lots of things myself, including some I shouldn't, but this is one I'd take to the radiator shop and let them do it.
Yeah John, I plan on having the radiator shop do the repair. I told him that I was going to have the hood/tank sand blasted so he thought it would be better for me to have it blasted first before he repairs the rust-out area.
Russ, rleggitt, Thanks for the info., It sounds like a good way to go and I have heard nothing but good results with the Por-15 product.
You also said, Quote: [By-the-way, I use 1/2 can of POR 15. I have found that this is enough to provide a good coat.] Is that a 1/2 can per tank-(What size can)-or each side of baffle?. Also have you ever tried there complete tank seal kit that I heard they make.
Tue May 18, 2004 7:42 pm
While the radiator shop is doing the gas tank repair, why don't you have them do the sealing job as well. That way you get a pro job and don't have the hassles. It might be a little more expensive than the POR-15, but when you get the tank back, all it will need is PAINT
I had Ellie's done professionally, and it worked out to about $10.00 more than doing it myself not counting my labour.... for me it was a far better option.
Yust a taught and me dos centavos worth
Tue May 18, 2004 8:39 pm
That be a good thought ya gots there Rudi. I have more money to burn than tank shaking power in these old bones anyhoo
The radiator shop has a machine that flip-flops & rotates parts but he was not sure it would work with the hood/tank because of its configuration. He showed me an empty can of sealer (Red-Stuff) that he said he uses but I did not recognize the brand name.
Tue May 18, 2004 8:55 pm
rudi did you de-rust your hood & tank in your de-rusto tank?. I thought about doing that but wasn`t sure if it would be a good idear.
I would have to do mine 1/2 at a time standing on end cause my tank taint deep enough for the complete hood.
Tue May 18, 2004 9:00 pm
I am seriously considering doing that to the replacement tank I have in mind for Jethro. I cannot see why it would do any harm, and most likely it will just be a boon. If you are concerned about residue, you might want to rinse with some diesel and then again with water before you take it over to the shop.
I think I will have to do 1/2 at a time as well as my tank is a 45 gallon plastic drink concentrate barrel.
Speaking of which, I just got hold of 4 more. These are becoming very hard to come by as the companies that have them are converting over to 5 gallon containers instead. I want to get a few more for other projects before they become scarce as dinosaurs
Wed May 19, 2004 9:56 am
I looked at your picture again and it doesn't look that bad to me. There is plenty of metal to braze to and you brazing doesn't have to be liquid tight. The tank liner will seal up any pin holes.
I did the tank on a '79 Ford 4x4 that had a couple of holes rusted at the support straps. I brazed up the holes and used the Eastwood tank sealer kit and it been fine for the last five years. (Also painted the outside of the tank)
It looks like your tank rusted from the inside - that means a lot of corrision on the inside and that's what will give you problems later. The Eastwood kit come with rust remover & metal etching fluid and liquid liner.
rleggitt is right - the liner will flow easily into the back of the tank and will coat the corrision spots on the inside as well as cover up any pin holes starting to break through.
Wed May 19, 2004 10:36 pm
First off, the can as I quoted is a one quart can [this will do an auto tank
10-15 gallons]. I use 1/2 can or one pint per CUB tank.
Yes I purchased the complete kit [marine clean, metal ready, and the
POR 15] the first time for the first two tanks I did . However, with the
more recent purchases of CUB(s) I bought a gallon of marine clean, a gallon of metal ready, and two quart cans of tank sealer. It was considerably cheaper this way.
Hope this helps.
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