Farmall Cub

Interesting thread.

Apparently there is an inside Joke about the diesel and it "fitting" and "neetness" on a cub. For those of us that are new, and not in on the joke, could you explain please.

By the way, which one of you is in the process?

Bill Hudson wrote:'Stealth Diesel Cub'

I like that. It sorta has a ring to it. I keep tellin' you all the Tug Trophy is gonna go farther north in 2009.

Yup!!!!

By the time I read Bill Hudson's response, I was already where he is. And I'm not sure if it is just the one Dotson, or if Rick and George had a hand in it too!

But we cannot wait to see it!!!!!!

You guys had the "stealth" part under mighty good wraps, until it got done. Now you just can't wait, can you.

When's the unveiling?

I was thinking that if the weekest part is were the hitch attaches to the final drive housings. if you designed a bracket that reinforces the final drive housing 360 degrees, (utilizing all the existing bolt holes) it seems like it would make the housing bullet proof. I may be way off but it made sense to me when I thought of it. A machine is only as strong as its weekest part.

Pete from Virginia Beach

I was suing the gear reducer on my cub when I got the wheels in a place where they couldn't spin, and then caught the mower on a buried RR tie. The top shaft in a final drive snapped like a tooth pick.

Know with all of this talk of the final drives being weak what can one do to stregthen them?

My 35 years experiance with IH Trucks it was clutches & drive shafts that give out first.

farmboy99 wrote:Know with all of this talk of the final drives being weak what can one do to strengthen them?

I would go back and re-read George Willer's post. You will not get better advice from anybody than you will get from George. If the wheels are spinning the parts are not breaking.

farmboy99 wrote:Know with all of this talk of the final drives being weak what can one do to stregthen them?

Make them bigger! But IH already solved that problem for you.

I think GW is correct with any pulling tractor no matter what the size is. Its not the spinning wheels its when there is too much traction is when things break.

The only thing that worries me is the driveshaft i would think a center support would be needed before the throwout brg inside the torque tube.

I believe you could also manufacture a bracket that would connect the torque tube to the finals to the rear hitch but you may want to go all the way to the bolster too if your going pulling it would spread out the forces rather than have it all in one area. Stronger is better. Then its what GW said you need to keep the wheels spinning.

Making splined shafts is expensive. Right now i'm looking into making a floating rear axle on my jeep tractor. I need longer axles with splines on both ends. I want it to support more weight so i can add my little dump rock body on it.

I put a 400hp engine in a car once and while banging gears I blew the rear end, rip the driveshaft in two and cracked the bell housing. The forces have to go somewhere. After redesigning everything stronger the 4,050lb car ran 12:85 in the quarter mile and it stayed together. On the full body car dyne i had 299hp at the rear wheels. The guy operating the dyne said i lost 100hp thru the drivetrain. But I had to go to truck u joints, put a strap type clamp on the center u joint on the drive shaft. Chain the engine down to the frame on the left side. It would torque up to the left. Get a steel bell housing (scatter shield). After changing the gearing(4:88's) and going with a posi it stayed all together finally. Its not just changing to a larger engine its solving the extra forces we put on the drive train too. My point is we learn more as we go too. Its a challange to get it right too. When it performs correctly the way you designed it you then have the braggin rights for the rest of your life with your buddies. After 28 years they still remember when....

If you go to yesterdays tractors on the net and search for 154's there's one with a diesel engine in it and it doesn't look bad too. I'm sure this would work in an fcub too.

Larry Barb Dotson wrote:Will the Cub drive train handle a 20 HP diesel?

Larry Dotson

Rick Prentice wrote:Everybody knows you can't fit a diesel into a cub . It'd look stupid and out of place

Rick

George Willer wrote:
4. Furthermore... As everyone already knows it's not even possible to convert a Cub to diesel neatly.

Bill Hudson wrote:I noticed that you have only made 3 posts, so you may be wondering about the comments about a diesel in a Cub. My suspicion, based on earlier posts, is that a 'Stealth Diesel Cub' has been completed, or nearly so. Whatever it is has been seen by some but the masses are still waiting.



Bill

Stealth Diesel Cub Kool

Do the final drive housings fracture because of the torsional stresses of the two gears in the housing or because the draw bar is attached to them creating an added stress to it?

If the answer is yes or even baybe, than has any one tried to change the location of pull for the draw bar? like adding a bracket to the differential area, were the final drive bolts to. That could releave one stress from the final drive making it more durable.

Any thoughts on this? Also when the final drive is finaly bullet proof wich part will fail next?

Pete from Virginia Beach

64/67lo-boy wrote:Do the final drive housings fracture because of the torsional stresses of the two gears in the housing or because the draw bar is attached to them creating an added stress to it?

In my opinion, neither. It is the result of using the wrong bolts or not keeping them tight. Routine mainentance would be more effective than a modification.