'62 Cub update and a question or 2 :)

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'62 Cub update and a question or 2 :)

Postby robstagis » Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:56 pm

I got the new exhaust valves (Thank you, Carter and Gruenewald) and got the intakes ground. Whilst pondering other things, I've got new points, rotor, cap, etc... It's also up on single turf tires now - had to retap a couple lugbolt holes and replace a couple of the bolts, but it went smoothly, all things considered.

So now my questions, if you please: I got the radiator off - now I'vegot 6 broken bolt stubs. I assume I've gotta drill 'em and out and tap 'em - they ain't moving in the least. Has anybody got a setup to do the drilling? I'm reluctant to drill the holes freehand.

#2: I started hand-lapping the valves. I'm thrilled with the intakes - not so thrilled with the exhausts. There a couple, for lack of a better word, 'lines' across the seats. They're not grooves; nor are they deep - it's almost like they were etched rather than 'beat' in by dirt or carbon. How much can I lap without going too far, please?

Third - and this one is seriously half-a$$: I'm gonna start it, since it's mostly apart for paint, by strapping on a tank and hot-wiring it. I ain't planning on going far - or even running it long enough to get it running properly. I want to run it and ensure it's runnable and more-or-less driveable before I paint and re-assemble. So - do I run straight 12-volt to the coil? Or should I run the hot-lead through the twisted-wire resistor that goes across the back of the ignition switch? I just don't wanna burn up the points, is my question, I guess. It's a 12-volt Cub...

Thanks in advance


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Postby Bigdog » Tue Jun 01, 2004 4:10 pm

On the radiator bolts - take a 1/4" thick piece of bar stock. Carefully drill 3 holes spaced the same as they are on the radiator casting. You can then center one of the holes over the stud you want to drill and secure the plate with the other 2 in 2 adjacent holes. Then use the hole in the bar stock as your guide. By drilling 3 holes you can use either 2 good holes to the left, 2 to the right or one on either side to secure your template.
On the valve lapping, you might want to read George Willer's write-up on valve lapping on Rudi's manual site.
As far as the temporary set-up to run the engine. If you run the engine only a short time you might be OK. But you could easily run through the resistor & switch to be sure.
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!



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1947 Circle series Farmall Cub with Armstrong lift, belt pulley, 5"rims 6" tires, SN 563

1949 Farmall Cub with high crop option and hydraulics

1955 Farmall Cub with fast hitch

1955 International Cub Loboy with fast hitch

1957 Farmall Cub with fast hitch

1959 Farmall Cub with fast hitch
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Postby Arizona Mike » Tue Jun 01, 2004 6:03 pm

One thing that I have known to work for broken off bolds that you don't want to drill and tap is to weld on new bolt, let it cool a few minutes, and then back it out with your wrench. Sometimes just the heat from the torch will help break it loose too. If your not going to get your radiator too hot this will work.

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