Help, Ripped Off?

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Help, Ripped Off?

Postby 9mules » Wed Jun 02, 2004 1:02 pm

So I bought my first tractor yesterday, got it home and it wouldn't keep a charge. Its a pretty 1948 Cub, SN#18268, with a full set of cultivators, everything painted up pretty, new tires, seat cushion etc. Checked around found out there isn't a voltage regulator where its supposed to be, nor a starting switch control rod, nor a fuse where the fuse housing hole is. Guess I'm just stupid for trustin' folks and not researchin' more about tractors. I'm heart broken cause the Cub is all I ever wanted and now its just dead iron settin' in my yard.
Whats a man to do?
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Postby cjpenny89 » Wed Jun 02, 2004 1:11 pm

well I would say you didn't get ripped off. There were two places for the voltage regulator to be mounted. If it is a 48 cub it would be mounted on top of the generator which is under the hood and you just might not have seen it. If the battery was out of the tractor it might just need polarized.
the only fuse on the 48 cub is on the back of the light switch just buy one and put it in not very expensive $2 tops? If the starter rod was gone you can get one from TMtractor parts. But if it was gone how did you start it?
lots of these things you stated can be fixed easy and a lot of these old tractors have these probelms from lack of up keep by the owner. Dont worry we can give you info on how to fix everything. unless you paid a ton of money for the tractor or were told it was in tip top shape I bet you didn't get ripped off
go to this link and compair your tractor to the wire diagrams and see if it is wired right and then check and see if the generator is polarized.
http://www.atis.net/CubFAQ/cub_faq_2.html
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Postby Cub-Bud » Wed Jun 02, 2004 1:19 pm

9mules

Welcome :!: You have come to the right place. 8) First, read the announcement and the sticky at the top of the forum if you have not done so already.

Now, check the back of your light switch....you should find the fuse/fuse holder there. Call JP Tractor Salvage or visit TM Tractor Parts web site to obtain a starter rod. I believe that a '48 FCUB should have a generator relay/cut-out on it rather than a voltage regulator. Check the top of your generator for the relay. You should be able to get one from JP's. Once you gather up all the parts, let us know....we will help you get your cub running. :wink:
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Will Try

Postby 9mules » Wed Jun 02, 2004 1:25 pm

Thanks for the reply. Will check it out.
Will research regulator location and polarization of battery.
20 Amp fuse, yes? The hole is there for it but no fuse.
Starting is done by pulling a plunger type (?) rod? That is next to the ignition switch button.
I paid $3k.
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Postby Rudi » Wed Jun 02, 2004 10:06 pm

9mules:

You probably got a good deal ifn you got all those implements and such with your Cub.

Really though, do yourself a big favour which will reduce much of your concern.

Read the post that CB mentioned. Also, click the link below, it will take you to the manuals. READ the Owner's Manual - it applies to virtually all Cubs pretty much.

The starter rod is what is supposed to be there, there may be a push pull switch which is actually a kill switch or you may have keyed ignition as I have. Not sure if you are still a 6v positive ground system or have been converted to neg groung or even a 12v system.

Have a good read first. Then systematically check your Cub from front to rear against the manual. THEN please repost with all of your questions. I have a feeling that most will be answered.

We will be looking forward to pics of your Cub!

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Postby Wireharness » Thu Jun 03, 2004 6:43 am

If your Cub is a 48 the box that looks like a regulator should be mounted on the top of the Generator. However it was originally a cut out relay. IH did not begin the use of Regulators until 1950 then they were mounted on the side of the engine where you could see them very easy. The light switch was then a 3 notch switch not 4 notches.
If the cutout relay has been changed to a regulator there will be one of the main wires from the generator to the dash that will be unhooked and taped back. Normally relays did not go bad to often.
Cubs have 8 different main harness's used thru the years .
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Should I Polarize?

Postby 9mules » Thu Jun 03, 2004 7:52 am

Previous owner put a new battery in but didn't mention polarization....my research indicates that I should do this. Should I with what I found?
I found the relay or regulator mounted ontop the generator. It may be wrong but I took the gas tank hood assembly off to get to it...need the experience anyway.
What I found was a regulator with 3 prongs...2 are F & G and the other goes to the Ampmeter. Looks like a 3 brush generator with Voltage Regulator?
Light switch is 3 position with glass fuse behind it which is good.
Tractor came with owner's manual and the previous posts have been helpfull.
I did research before I bought this tractor and still have ways to go...I want to know this tractor like the back of my hand.
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu Jun 03, 2004 8:35 am

take the cover off the "regulater" and see how many relays are in it. If there is only one, it is a cutout not a regualtor and the charge rate was orignally controlled by the HI and LO positions of the light switch. Note, original switch would have had 4 positions, L, H, D, B. Low charge, High charge, Dim lights, Bright lights. It will work with a 3 position light switch (O, D, B), but the wire from the F terminal must be grounded for it to work with the 3 position switch.
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cutout

Postby 9mules » Thu Jun 03, 2004 9:18 am

Joh, While I had the top off and did pull the cover off and there's 1 relay....looks like a copper spring...wire marked F on generator goes to cutout and A goes to cutout the other wire coming off of the cutout goes to ampmeter.
Are you saying the lights need to be on to charge battery?
When I had it running and turn lights on it showed discharge big time.
Will read articles.
Thanks
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu Jun 03, 2004 9:35 am

The lights do not have to be on, the light switch serves 2 purposes. L and H leave the lights off and control the charge rate. D and B set the charge rate to high and run the lights on Dim or Bright. There may be a resister in the cutout to provide a ground for the field, I'm not sure, but it has to get a ground soemwhere to charge. Go to the Atis Cub Faq and go to page 2 for a wiring diagram http://www.atis.net/CubFAQ/cub_faq.html

I would suggest polarizing the generator by briefly connecting a wire from the the lead going to the ammeter to the A terminal. Do not connect to the field. Also try connecting a wire from the F lead to ground, this should put the generator at full charge (8 to 12 amps depending on the 3rd brush setting of the generator).
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Re: cutout

Postby Jim Becker » Thu Jun 03, 2004 9:40 am

9mules wrote:wire marked F on generator goes to cutout

That's the problem. Wired that way, all you will get is maybe 2 amps from the generator, not enough to keep up with the lights.

Generator "A" should be connected to cut-out "GEN" (once in a while marked "A"). Since you have a 3 position light switch, connect the generator "F" directly to a good ground (use one of the cut-out mounting screws). This should get you about 11 amps out of the generator.
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Postby Cub-Bud » Thu Jun 03, 2004 10:18 am

"Light switch is 3 position with glass fuse behind it which is good."

Does not the three postion switch require the fuse holder in the bottom of the dash :?: I though the fuse holder in the back of the switch indicates a four position switch. :?

First position=low charge rate for generator
Second position=high charge for generator
Third position=dim lights
Fourth position=bright lights.

On a three position switch, the first position is off, the second is dim lights, and the third is bright lights. :roll:

How many "clicks" do you count when you turn the switch :?:
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charge

Postby 9mules » Thu Jun 03, 2004 11:42 am

Its a 3 position switch with glass fuse behind it...coudn't they have put it in a harder position...and that cutout relay...I can't get to it without popin' the entire hood off!
Tried to polarize...will do again cause no spark seen as described.
Will check/clean all grounds.
Jim..your right, F is connected to the cutout, but will transfer over to a mounting screw...will clean/inspect.
Paint job overspray may be a culprit.
Its discharging at about 18. I'm starting to think its the polarization?
o.k. back to the garage.
thanks
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now what?

Postby 9mules » Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:25 pm

Polarization killed it. Didn't get a spark anyway as described...what I do wrong? leave on the terminals to long (a second)...went from A to battery...how yea that is the (-) side...cause (+) is ground...I've read the posts nobody mentions which posts.
Can't even jump start it down a hill...nothing. No fire nothin'
I spent good money for junk. I'm pissed.
Dead battery..now I've got to get a charger?! What else? A ton of time. Its hot here in the hills of Tennessee...I'm done.
Thanks everyone for the help.
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Postby Dogman » Thu Jun 03, 2004 1:10 pm

Where are you in TN ? IF you are close Maybe I can Help!!
If you don't what it out on the Internet Send me a e-mail or PM
AS BIGDOG would say I have a trailer :lol: :lol:
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