New Cub owner and a couple of questions

Mon Jun 28, 2004 1:55 pm

Howdy Folks! Just became a new owner of a cub over the weekend. I've been reading this site for a couple of weeks now, and find some familiar names here (JohnBron for example). Here's my questions: I think I will have to pull the radiator and have it cored and rodded because of a leak at the neck. I know it is leaking, because when I was driving it, I could not only smell antifreeze, but could also see steam near the base of the radiator cap base. It does look like a crack in that area. Also, the steering wheel has a lot of play in the steering box. Judging from the Super A I also have, this appears to be a common thing. How much trouble to pull the radiator? Should it be left for a winter project since I need it this summer? I've heard the steering box is a royal PITA, and should be done when down time wouldn't cause a lot of problems. Also, what are parts availability like?

Thanks in advance for your help. Looking forward to getting started on the mechanical rebuild of this fine machine!

SundaySailor (Rick)

Mon Jun 28, 2004 4:38 pm

The radiator removal / replacement is no big deal. Just be prepared to drill out a few broken bolts as it is likely some will twist off if the radiator hasn't been removed in a while. New aftermarket units are available if yours is beyond repair. Your major problem may be that the radiator is too full. Let it run and spit out all the excess. If the level is still above the ends of the tubes it will likely be OK. If the leak is truly at the neck, I would be tempted to solder it on the tractor rather than remove it.

Working on the steering assembly is no major deal either. However, if you don't want the tractor out of service very long, get everything you will need for a re-build before you tear it down.

Thanks BigDog...

Tue Jun 29, 2004 7:03 am

Much appreciated. I read another post about certain manuals I may need.

"First would suggest you read this thread : Announcement: New Members and Visitors, Please READ, then click the link below and have a look at the Cub Owners Manual. It tells you where to lube, what fluids to use etc. Very helpful.

Also, if you do not already have the Cub Owners Manual, the TC-37F Parts Manual and the GSS-1411 Service Manual, you should order them at Binder Books. You will find them to be the best investment you make for your Cub.

Until then, please feel free to consult the Manual Server at the link below as they are all there."

As of last night, I used Strypease to remove most of the red paint on the aluminum tag. If I read it correct (I have to wear bifocals and the tag distance is in between my focal length), the serial number is 101902. If this is correct, it appears that my "new" cub is a 1950 model. I plan on contacting the mechanic who worked on it last tonight, as his dad used to own this tractor. Anyway, are the above mentioned manuals correct for this tractor so that I can begin studying maintenance/teardown and repairs to this model? This is my first cub, and I'm not really sure what manuals I may need to get started. I do plan on starting to work on the minor stuff right away. The major stuff I will have wait on until summer is over, and I won't need to use her.

Thanks so much for the help!

SundaySailor (Rick)

Tue Jun 29, 2004 7:11 am

The 3 manuals mentioned will serve you well, the Owner's manual will tell you about the tractor, describe maintenance procedures and intervals etc.
The Service manual will describe repair procedures with descriptions of the tear-down and re-assembly. The Parts Catalog not only lists part numbers, but has exploded diagrams of how they are assembled. This works well with the service manual.
The fellows here will help you with any problems you may encounter.

Tue Jun 29, 2004 7:43 am

Just a thought; :idea: you might make sure that the water/antifreeze isn't coming from the radiator overflow area just below the neck. Not uncommon at all for the overflow tube to be cracked, and/or loose at this connection point. Tube may even be missing. :( If radiator is filled to the top it will spit out water at the overflow as the engine reaches operating temperature until it reaches it's normall operating level. :shock: That level is usually an inch to 1 1/2" below the radiator neck, or just slightly up on the large round tube when looking down into the radiator.
Welcome aboard Sunday Sailor.

Tue Jun 29, 2004 8:42 am

Rick,

This may not be important to you, but if your serial number is as given, it's comfortably within the range of original white demonstrators. Many of us have restored ours to the original white and think they're slightly special.

George Willer

Image

Glory Orsky!!!!!

Thu Jul 01, 2004 6:36 am

George, I's done seen the white ghost of the twin cub tractors. They's even got red eyes to boot! :wink: Mighty interesting sights to. I'm glad I wasn't sitting down near a grave yard talking wift the wild turkey and seeing those things. Why heck, it might of caused me to fall into a freshly dug grave and sit there and wait until I heard strange voices from the corner of the grave. But seriously, they do look interesting. So far, I haven't seen any sign of white paint on my cub, but that doesn't mean it wasn't there. I do know it was repainted at one time or other. I'm really looking forward to taking my time and rebuilding her to factory specs. Thanks so much for all the information all of you have given me. It has and will be a great help.

Kindest regards,

SundaySailor (Rick)

Fri Jul 02, 2004 10:53 am

Sorry to highjack the thread..
But i noticed your headlights were on the same place
on both sides. On my 48 one is higher than the other..
Did they come from the factory even or not?
Thanks
Mongo-

Fri Jul 02, 2004 10:56 am

They're supposed to be even. There is a hole on each side of the hood where the headlight stud is connected. Then the light is screwed onto the stud.

Fri Jul 02, 2004 1:02 pm

Mongo,

I was reading the IH 1000 loader manual a couple weeks back, and I recall seeing something about relocating a headlight. Maybe yours had an attachment on it at one time that required relocating the light?