Changing final drives

Sat Jul 03, 2004 5:11 pm

Well starting some time in the next week or so I am finaly going to change out my drives ( will be nice to have all good mounting holes).
So, if any of you experts have any good tips or ideas please tell me. The local IH dealer is going to loan me the manual, plus I have parts manual. I know there are some of you that have done this many times and you might be able to save me any problems.
What is the best way to secure the tractor assuming I do one side at a time, or should I do both sides at the same time?
With All this going on I am also going next Sat morning and pick up a Cub Cadet Original to mess with. A guy cant have to many.
Thanks for your help Chuck :roll:

Sat Jul 03, 2004 5:27 pm

Chuck, those castings are fairly heavy. Be careful handling them. If you have a hoist or shop crane, it will help a lot. Also careful handling may save the seals on re-installation.

Sat Jul 03, 2004 5:33 pm

Bigdog: I dont have a crane or hoist but maybe I can find someone who does, or is there some other method to use?

Final Drive

Sat Jul 03, 2004 5:43 pm

Chuck: Could you enlist a friend to help remove and re-insert the final drives? They are too heavy for one person to handle properly. Dan

Sat Jul 03, 2004 8:02 pm

Dan; Sure I can always get some help, most the time I like to play by myself :lol:

Final Drives

Sat Jul 03, 2004 10:09 pm

Chuck, I ddn't have a hoist either, so I improvised. I took a 6-foot step ladder, opened it and positioned it over the final drive. I used a tie down strap to lift the final drive. Makes it so you can get it just right since the strap was adjustable. Putting the final back on is even more important than taking it off in that you need to be able to manuver it properly without messing up the new seals. The ladder and strap make this go real easy. Yes, it will look silly. Just get it done before your buddies come over.

S.H.A.F.T.

Final Drives.

Sun Jul 04, 2004 9:23 am

Got to redo mine also on my 'new' 49. Great idea on the ladder. Figure I might as well do bearings, seals, gaskets etc as well as the brakes. My question, are there any special tools required? :idea: Got a good set of sockets, wrenches, and the like and I think I got a torque wrench around somewhere. Also first problem looks to be a lot of paint, any suggestions here? Also, just how heavy are the drives, the whole tractor is only 1500, figure drives at 100 or most likely a little less. :?:

Sun Jul 04, 2004 9:36 am

Buggyscott,

You're right, the finals weigh less than 100#. My guess would be somewhere around 70. The problem is not the weight, as such... but the ability to hold the weight and still have the "feel" to insert the spline without damaging the seal.

I use a long V belt twisted into a figure 8 for a sling that can be adjusted so the final hangs straight and lift with a shop crane. Without the crane I'd try SHAFT's method.

Mon Jul 05, 2004 5:54 pm

That is what I like about this forum, the great ideas from them that know.
Now is there any special things a guy should know about blocking or braceing the tractor for the job?

Mon Jul 05, 2004 5:57 pm

Drive some wedges between the front axle and the lower radiator casting to stabilize the front. Use good wooden cribbing under the rear. Don't trust concrete blocks.

Mon Jul 05, 2004 6:07 pm

Thanks Bigdog: Question If I wedge the front end and only do oneside at a time would a jack stand work or do I need to be more stable by blocking?

Mon Jul 05, 2004 6:36 pm

A heavy duty jack stand properly supported should be acceptable. Remember, it's your body that's around and under that weight.

Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:00 pm

I used a jack-stand with a second jack-stand next to it as a safety net. Fortunately I had no problems with the one bearing the weight but I felt more at ease with the backup being there.

Mon Jul 05, 2004 8:01 pm

I think I will use a jack stand, and do some blocking also. Cant be to safe.