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Changing final drives

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Chuck Melburg
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Changing final drives

Postby Chuck Melburg » Sat Jul 03, 2004 5:11 pm

Well starting some time in the next week or so I am finaly going to change out my drives ( will be nice to have all good mounting holes).
So, if any of you experts have any good tips or ideas please tell me. The local IH dealer is going to loan me the manual, plus I have parts manual. I know there are some of you that have done this many times and you might be able to save me any problems.
What is the best way to secure the tractor assuming I do one side at a time, or should I do both sides at the same time?
With All this going on I am also going next Sat morning and pick up a Cub Cadet Original to mess with. A guy cant have to many.
Thanks for your help Chuck :roll:
I am convinced that life is 10% what happens to me and 90% how I react to it.

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Sat Jul 03, 2004 5:27 pm

Chuck, those castings are fairly heavy. Be careful handling them. If you have a hoist or shop crane, it will help a lot. Also careful handling may save the seals on re-installation.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

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Chuck Melburg
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 206
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 5:41 pm
Zip Code: 61469
Tractors Owned: Cub 1949, 1963
Cadets 2 Originals, 100,108
3 100 manure spreaders. One is fully restored.
Location: Illinois, Oquawka

Postby Chuck Melburg » Sat Jul 03, 2004 5:33 pm

Bigdog: I dont have a crane or hoist but maybe I can find someone who does, or is there some other method to use?
I am convinced that life is 10% what happens to me and 90% how I react to it.

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Dan England
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Final Drive

Postby Dan England » Sat Jul 03, 2004 5:43 pm

Chuck: Could you enlist a friend to help remove and re-insert the final drives? They are too heavy for one person to handle properly. Dan

Chuck Melburg
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 206
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 5:41 pm
Zip Code: 61469
Tractors Owned: Cub 1949, 1963
Cadets 2 Originals, 100,108
3 100 manure spreaders. One is fully restored.
Location: Illinois, Oquawka

Postby Chuck Melburg » Sat Jul 03, 2004 8:02 pm

Dan; Sure I can always get some help, most the time I like to play by myself :lol:
I am convinced that life is 10% what happens to me and 90% how I react to it.

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Final Drives

Postby S.H.A.F.T. » Sat Jul 03, 2004 10:09 pm

Chuck, I ddn't have a hoist either, so I improvised. I took a 6-foot step ladder, opened it and positioned it over the final drive. I used a tie down strap to lift the final drive. Makes it so you can get it just right since the strap was adjustable. Putting the final back on is even more important than taking it off in that you need to be able to manuver it properly without messing up the new seals. The ladder and strap make this go real easy. Yes, it will look silly. Just get it done before your buddies come over.

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Final Drives.

Postby Buggyscott » Sun Jul 04, 2004 9:23 am

Got to redo mine also on my 'new' 49. Great idea on the ladder. Figure I might as well do bearings, seals, gaskets etc as well as the brakes. My question, are there any special tools required? :idea: Got a good set of sockets, wrenches, and the like and I think I got a torque wrench around somewhere. Also first problem looks to be a lot of paint, any suggestions here? Also, just how heavy are the drives, the whole tractor is only 1500, figure drives at 100 or most likely a little less. :?:

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George Willer
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Postby George Willer » Sun Jul 04, 2004 9:36 am

Buggyscott,

You're right, the finals weigh less than 100#. My guess would be somewhere around 70. The problem is not the weight, as such... but the ability to hold the weight and still have the "feel" to insert the spline without damaging the seal.

I use a long V belt twisted into a figure 8 for a sling that can be adjusted so the final hangs straight and lift with a shop crane. Without the crane I'd try SHAFT's method.
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Chuck Melburg
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 206
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 5:41 pm
Zip Code: 61469
Tractors Owned: Cub 1949, 1963
Cadets 2 Originals, 100,108
3 100 manure spreaders. One is fully restored.
Location: Illinois, Oquawka

Postby Chuck Melburg » Mon Jul 05, 2004 5:54 pm

That is what I like about this forum, the great ideas from them that know.
Now is there any special things a guy should know about blocking or braceing the tractor for the job?
I am convinced that life is 10% what happens to me and 90% how I react to it.

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Mon Jul 05, 2004 5:57 pm

Drive some wedges between the front axle and the lower radiator casting to stabilize the front. Use good wooden cribbing under the rear. Don't trust concrete blocks.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

Image

http://www.cubtug.com

Chuck Melburg
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 206
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 5:41 pm
Zip Code: 61469
Tractors Owned: Cub 1949, 1963
Cadets 2 Originals, 100,108
3 100 manure spreaders. One is fully restored.
Location: Illinois, Oquawka

Postby Chuck Melburg » Mon Jul 05, 2004 6:07 pm

Thanks Bigdog: Question If I wedge the front end and only do oneside at a time would a jack stand work or do I need to be more stable by blocking?
I am convinced that life is 10% what happens to me and 90% how I react to it.

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Mon Jul 05, 2004 6:36 pm

A heavy duty jack stand properly supported should be acceptable. Remember, it's your body that's around and under that weight.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

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http://www.cubtug.com

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johnbron
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Postby johnbron » Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:00 pm

I used a jack-stand with a second jack-stand next to it as a safety net. Fortunately I had no problems with the one bearing the weight but I felt more at ease with the backup being there.
Then came Bronson

Chuck Melburg
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 206
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 5:41 pm
Zip Code: 61469
Tractors Owned: Cub 1949, 1963
Cadets 2 Originals, 100,108
3 100 manure spreaders. One is fully restored.
Location: Illinois, Oquawka

Postby Chuck Melburg » Mon Jul 05, 2004 8:01 pm

I think I will use a jack stand, and do some blocking also. Cant be to safe.
I am convinced that life is 10% what happens to me and 90% how I react to it.


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