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Can someone tell me why the pull bar is mounted to the right of center on the lower front frame of the fast hitch? There is a three hole adjustment there that will allow the bar to be almost centered if moved to the left hole, but why is that adjustment bracket off center?
Also..what are the suggested hitch settings and adjustments for pulling the F38 disc?
I have no answer for your question but was wondering if your tractor has the helper rod
if you could give me some measurement like the dia. of the rod, dia. and number of coils in the spring length of both rod and spring
I will try and get you those dimensions a guy could make that real easy.
I will get you the road dia. I think it is like 5/8 or 3/4 what ever the hole size is on the hyd lift arm is the size. I will also get you the rod length and the brack dims for the bottom where it mountsto the tranny.
I will also get the number of coils and the diamter of the coils so you can get the right tension.
honestly I have not had anything on my fast hitch that needed the help of the helper spring.
I saw your post the other day re the link rod and spring.
These are available as salvage parts, but are scarce. Have you checked with the parts guys?
I will try to get the info you asked about sometime today.
Mike I have only seen one and that was on E_BAY and Tom from T&M Tractor out bid me and when I asked about it they told me that it would only be sold with a fast hitch
cj thanks for the help just got my disc back together and I have to back in to a brush pile to get it to come all the way up
you can e-mail me at email@example.com
Never seen the manuals for the relevant implements but I'll take a guess at it. By the way, I think the manuals are on Rudi's site and at Binder Books for hard copies.
I think the left hole in the bail centers the pull bar and would be used for most purposes, including the disk. The other holes are probably for use with the moldboard plow and maybe some other implements.
For the disk, you will probably want to set the leveling crank to level and the pins on each vertical link to allow float, which in turn allows some roll freedom of the disk. You should back out the diagonal link stop lock bolt to allow some side movement. This will particularly help if you work on a curve or contour. Set your depth control crank or lever so the disk is level front to back. This will set the inner and outer ends of the gangs to cut at the same depth.
Now, with all that said, it depends on what you are using it for. For example, if you are working between rows of an established crop, you probably want to pin it as solid as possible. You may want to set the depth control based on some ridging of the rows. The double nuts on the bars up on top allow for more extreme ridging adjustment. The other rods to the front allow you to change the angle of cut. Usually you set them to maximum angle. Reducing it will reduce the cut and the amount it of soil it moves.
I have the same disk as yours and love it. I too have to set mine in the
far left position to center the disk, the scoop/bucket, and carryall and far
right position to use the turning plow.
I will pass along what I did for weights. I took two 8" x 12" cinder blocks
and some 1/2 inch re-bar and made a "U" shaped handle to down into
the center of holes cinder blocks. Then I used ready mix condrete and
filled the holes. The finished weights just fit into the carriers on the disk.
Sometimes I use both weights and sometimes only one. But it sure
makes a big difference in cutting.
When I decide to let the back adjustment "float", as Jim suggested, I wipe
a good coating of grease onto the horizontal rod with an old rag.
Hopes this helps some.
The left-most hole (when viewed from the back) centers the bar on the fast hitch. The other holes are for the plow adjustment related to how wide you set your rear wheels. I never take mine out of the leftmost hole except when I pull all three pins and install the cultivator ( which is currently on the tractor ). This is to increase the clearance for cultivating under the tractor.
-Finesse is choosing the right size hammer.
-As soon as something is made idiot-proof they make a better idiot.
I am just discing up my propery for seeding grass. I have already done the discing with the pull bar in the wrong hole, but it was satisfactory. With the depth adjustment all the way up and the dirt slightly moist it made just the right depth cut without tearing out what little grass I do have.
I think I had all the other adjustments correct, but what would moving the verticals on the hitch to the outside adj. holes accomplish?
Dogman, the diameter of the link and spring rods is 13/16". The length of the spring rod is 31 1/4" including the 90 degree bend at the top. The lengh of the spring ranges from 17 3/8" to 21" depending on how the adjustment nut is set at the front of the rod.
10 posts • Page 1 of 1
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