Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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Thought I'd post a few other pictures since it's really hot outside, and I have the electrolysis filled with parts and cooking away.
First, this is the way I found the left front wheel and tire. Can you believe that it's still holding air! I have a very rusty, but decent rim that is being cleaned in the tank right now. I'll probably spring for new tires and tubes as well.
Next is what the rim looked like after extricating the tire and tube. I doubt that it will ever turn in anger again.....
Sludge. Bad news is the oil pan is very sludgy. Good news is there are no parts in the pan that don't belong there!
Here's a part pretty typical of the rust and paint condition. The aircleaner assembly goes into the electrolysis tank looking like this...
...and after cooking over night (12 hours), and after a blast from the power washer, it looks like this. The dark areas are black oxide which when dry is paintable, though I generally dust them off with brown Scotch-Brite prior to priming with Transtar epoxy primer.
Last, you need a way to protect the cylinders while they soak in diesel fuel. I'm experimenting with this wooden cylinder head, but I'm not sure it's going to hold up well against the force of this throbbing 60 cu. inch fire breathing monster!!!! Hope the pictures aren't too boring.
Last edited by F-I-T on Sun Jul 25, 2004 5:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Did you say that cub was near the ocean, or IN the ocean?
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
Okay, maybe it's a SUPERMARINE SPIT-CUB! You do sit on the right-hand side of it.....
I've been painting over the black oxide on all my tractor/implement projects for several years now, and it is quite stable. My rule is if I can't knock it off with a power washer, or a Scotch-Brite pad with a flowing garden hose, then it stays put. Now, I do apply Phosphoric Acid, let that work, then blast that off with the powerwasher, let dry, then prime, but I never try to remove all the black oxide. I've got some examples on my website in case you'd like to check 'em out.
Also wanted to add that I am a believer in using a self-etching epoxy primer as a first coat. I use Transtar brand, but the PPG DP series is expensive, but also very good. This will seal everything so well, the black oxide will stay put. Since it is chemically tighter and more compact than Red Rust, and it is chemically inert (it doesn't want to combine with any more oxygen) you won't have any "pops". I've had really good luck using epoxy primer and PPG Acrylic Enamel on my tractors, even though I paint over the black oxide.
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
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