Touch Control Block Help

Mon Jul 26, 2004 4:57 pm

I started rebuilding the touch control for 49-1. Everything was going good untill I tried to remove the piston from the block. It seems to be rusted tight. I've removed the connecting rod and all the other components and have soaked the little bugger with Kroil for 3 days now. I even tried some heat today. But it still won't budge. My neighbor has a press, do you think I would run the risk of cracking the block if I put the press to it :?: :?:

The good :D news is that the old leather dust boots are still in good shape. The wire IH (I assume) used to attach the boots to the block was in bad shape.

Mon Jul 26, 2004 8:24 pm

Donny,Did the piston move before you started teardown?The o-ring might of swelled.Can you move it foward?Clean the walls with 600 paper with some hytran oil Put the linkage back on and move it around alittle bit(twist)..pushen and pullen
Try smacken it with a leather mallet or comp. hammers.use a drift of wood or some soft material.Has to go out cylinder head way .........

Mon Jul 26, 2004 9:15 pm


I doubt it moved before I took it apart. It's been sitting for a while since I got the tractor and a long while before. It will not move either direction. :? :? I didn't try to twist it as I have nothing to put on it without scoring it. I tried to get a strap wrench in there with no luck. I have tried a wooden drift, nothing but splinters. :( :( I even tried a socket with a long extention and a hammer. I'm afraid I'm going to break something. :o :o

Mon Jul 26, 2004 9:23 pm

Stupid question, but have you taken out the contorl rod and all the check valves so none of them are fighting you?

Mon Jul 26, 2004 9:30 pm


I wrote:
I've removed the connecting rod and all the other components

The block is naked except for the piston and the paint, or what's left of it. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Mon Jul 26, 2004 9:45 pm

sorry Donny, I missed that when I read it.

Mon Jul 26, 2004 9:55 pm

Shoot John nothing to be sorry about, I didn't make it too clear. :oops: :shock:

I guess it will have to soak for a few days.

Mon Jul 26, 2004 9:55 pm

Donny ,I figured you did everything except throw the whole thing out the back door of the shop :lol: What kind of press hyd.? or straight arbor.I would like a arbor and block it up just right ."Shock the monkey"use some heat hold pressure down and smack the top of the press.Hyd.starts to make noise and crunching sounds, and then "crack"I hate when that happens.

Mon Jul 26, 2004 10:02 pm


You have a way with figuring :lol: :lol: but don't think I haven't thought about throwing it.
The press is a hydro unit and I was afraid to use it.

Mon Jul 26, 2004 11:00 pm

Success :!: 8) :D :!: 8) :D :!: 8) :D

Made one last trip outside (to have a smoke) and I was sitting there looking at that block. I couldn't stand it :evil: :evil: so I got up and gave the extention a good smack and the piston broke free. :shock: :shock: I got it out and it's not in too bad of shape. :D :D just a couple of spots were hanging it up.

Patience and perseverance work every time...well perseverance anyway :wink: :wink:

Sun Aug 01, 2004 8:46 am

Donny, I'm working on '67 Loboy TC. I had no problem getting the piston out. My problem now is getting the yoke nut off so I can remove the connecting rod from the piston. She's torqued down to 75lbs. and I'm concerned about putting too much pressure and snapping the connecting rod. Mine has 13 ring seals to swap out. Sounds like you had a situation where the piston was stuck anyway and you were able to remove the yoke nut while it was still in the block. You will come up against my problem when you try putting the 75lbs. torque back on. Where do you safely grab it? The connecting rod is cast and may snap. How will you clean the block? Mines is ready to start cleaning and I will be replacing all the seals later on tonite.

Sun Aug 01, 2004 11:01 am


From past experience I removed the nut with the rock shaft still attached. I used the "shock" method, a breaker bar and a hammer :lol: :lol: :lol: You could try putting it in a vise with some wood bolcks and try the "shock" method or use an impact (did this the frist time). I'm soaking the bolck in deisel fuel as we speak when I return I will soak it in laquer thinner just to clean things up. Someone may have a better way :?: :?:
When replacing the "O" rings be sure to give them a good coating of silicone grease. I use DC4.

Sun Aug 01, 2004 12:41 pm

Donny M wrote:When replacing the "O" rings be sure to give them a good coating of silicone grease. I use DC4.

I would coat the o-rings with Hy-Tran.

Also be careful to keep everything as clean as possible. Don't wipe any parts down with a cloth that can shed lint.

Sun Aug 01, 2004 9:14 pm

Jim's right ,I would use hy-tran too.Just for the fact that DC4 everytime I use that stuff my eyes get irritated.But get good results with DC-4.I was thinking of putting Skydrol in my Touch control .But that's another eye story. It would be flame resistant though.Is Hy-tran flame resistant?

Sun Aug 01, 2004 9:32 pm

Don't know if Hytran is fame resistant, but I never heard of a hydralic fire on a cub. You might want to check the compatibility chart on Skydrol's website. Apparently it doesn't do good with neoprene, which is what I think most of the Touch control o'rings are made of.