Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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Well, the block is stripped, but there are SEVERAL broken off head bolts that have to be extracted. I'm taking my time on that task, so if it takes a weekend or two for each one, so be it.
Anyway, I could NOT get the crank pulley to budge. I used a rosebud torch and had it pretty hot, but it would not move. Maybe I still need more heat. I removed the timing cover, crank, and pulley as one unit. Perhaps it would be best to have it pressed out from this point. It's very pitted from rust, so I might replace it any way, but in case it's salvagable, I 'd like to save it.
I've looked in the parts book, and cannot see anything holing it on, except for a key. Am I right, or is there a bolt down in there that might be holding things up? I searched the archives, but any aditional advice would be appreciated.
'56 JD 70D // '90 JD 855 // '50 Case VAC // '48 IHC Cub "Boo-Boo" // '41 JD "H"
F-I-T's webpage.....ALWAYS under construction !!!
The pulley is pressed onto the shaft and is held with just the key. Most folks use a gear puller with a bearing separator to allow uniform pressure to be applied around the pulley flange. If you pull directly on the flange, it could break. It takes time and lots of patience.
Bill V in Md
1948 Cub w/ snowplow
Looks like you are well under way. I'm wishing you the best of luck on your rebuild. I've done 2 Cub engines so far (although they were pretty "shadetree mechanic-ish" ). The '49 is running great though and does it's share of chores. For sure, the key is, take your time! It's a project and does not need to be done Monday morning!
As for the pulley, do a search on this site and you will find many threads, including some pics by DonnyM and some of the other guys. They will all tell you to use a bearing seperator (the 2 piece kind) that goes in behind the pulley. You will use a threaded bolt setup then to "pull" the separator and the pulley off at the same time. The pictures explain it better.
Just Do It !
F-I-T, if you're taking it to be rebuilt and crank ground anyway, why not let the machine shop fight both the pulley and bolts. It won't cost much more than the rebuild and will cut down on the risk of OOPS. If you go ahead with the pulley yourself leave it under pressure and take a small hammer and tap on the shank ever so often. Come back every so often and put just a little more pull on the puller. It sometimes takes a while, but will eventually work.
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4 posts • Page 1 of 1
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