cub 22 mower grassboard

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cub 22 mower grassboard

Postby Chuck Melburg » Thu Aug 05, 2004 8:43 pm

Anyone out there know where one could get a grassboard fer a 22 sickle mower? There is no way to get rudi's to download or i would make my own. Thanks CHJUCK :P
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Postby rleggitt » Thu Aug 05, 2004 9:16 pm

Hi Chuck,

I made a tracing of Country Elliott's at Cubarama 2002 and I have it
somewhere. If no one else jumps in here with help I will go to the
tractor shed this weekend and see if I can find it and make you a copy.
I will monitor this post to see if anyone comes through, if not I will send
to you. Please e-mail me at rrleggit@dixie-net.com with your mailing
address.
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Postby Jason (IL) » Thu Aug 05, 2004 10:13 pm

I think I got one in the shed I copy or trace. It is a grass board but don't if it is a cub mower board or were they all the same. I'll check in the morning.

It looks to be made of a 1x10 but I woud probably use 3/4' plywood since it is stronger than a regular white pine 1x10 or 1x8.
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Postby Marion(57 Loboy) » Fri Aug 06, 2004 4:09 am

I printed out the grassboard just the other day-all I had to do was tape the pages together. What is the " grass stick boot" ???
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Postby Rudi » Fri Aug 06, 2004 9:19 am

Marion:

Glad you were able to print it, now I know I am not the only one who can. Chuck, I am not sure what the problem is. The file is large and will take at least two pages which must be taped together to form the pattern. On some printers 3 pages must be used. You should be able to set that up in your print options. Oh, it is just a .tif file with standard compression.

Now the grass board boot is what I call it for lack of a better term. If someone knows the correct term then I would be more than happy to correct it.

This is the Boot. It holds the stick to the grass board. The stick resembles a shovel handle, and in fact that is what a lot of them I have seen as replacements were. Later on IH changed from wood to steel rods.

Image
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Postby Scott C » Fri Aug 06, 2004 9:56 am

I'll post a picture of the board I'm going to make (outta whatever I have in scrap plywood). I didn't know how important they were till I started doing some serious mowing. Cut grass at the far end of the bar has to be pulled over and not let to fall into the uncut section or you'll be backing up and clearing the bar all the time. If you are cutting with the bar on the uphill side, then the grass has a tendancy to fall the right way. I can't wait to try this with the board on it.

I just printed out the drawing on 11x17 paper, not to scale but should be easy to make a pattern.

Has anyone ever tried heli-coil inserts for the impliment bolts?
I was running the bar a couple weeks ago and didn't notice the bolts had worked loose (I think they were half stripped to begin with) and ruined the threads in the casting. I found a kit on ebay for 15 bucks so I should be able to make the repairs this weekend (I hope).

The only other option I thought of was drilling out the hole oversize and pressing a solid rod in, welding it in place then drill and tap it.
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Postby Dan England » Fri Aug 06, 2004 10:33 am

Scott: I used heli-coil inserts to repair the bolt holes to which the front part of the flywheel shaft of the sickle mower attach. I made the repair about three months ago and no problem has developed yet. Looks like it is going to be a good repair job. Dan
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Postby Don McCombs » Fri Aug 06, 2004 11:31 am

I printed out the grassboard drawing on an engineering plotter at full scale.
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Postby Rudi » Fri Aug 06, 2004 11:51 am

Chuck:

Just sent you the file in an email. You should have no problems opening it.

Now, just for some clarity. The sketch is large, so I took it down to my buddy who has a copy shop. They scanned it using a large commercial scanner for blueprints.

So, there are a couple of options. The file is small enough to fit on a disk. Take the disc to a copy shop and they should be able to print it for you. Business Depot or a shop like that can do it easily I think.

Or, you print it on multiple pages and tape it together.

Hope this helps.
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Postby Jim Becker » Fri Aug 06, 2004 1:07 pm

Rudi wrote:Now the grass board boot is what I call it for lack of a better term. If someone knows the correct term then I would be more than happy to correct it.


"Grass Stick Plate" but I don't know if it was ever supplied with a Cub mower. I have a book back to '45 that shows the steel rod.
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Postby Marion(57 Loboy) » Fri Aug 06, 2004 9:16 pm

Rudi, (or someone)

is that grass boot actual size a few posts up? I am still in the dark about it...what is it made of???....what is it for ????...what does it DOOOOOO?????....UGH.....lol...if there was a cnc machinist board like this I'd go there from time to time just to remind myself I 'm not a TOTAL moron !!!! hehehehehehe
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Postby Marion(57 Loboy) » Fri Aug 06, 2004 9:31 pm

Not to steal Chuck's thread, but-

I guess I should mention:

I want to complete my L22 sickle for the lowboy and get it working as new.
I need:

to get or make the rod that holds it up for transport-I have no old part
to use as pattern.

to get the knives sharpened or replaced. Which is best? How do you
get em off and then get em on?

to get the parts that hold the knife bar down adjusted or replaced.
What is the best way to do this?

to make the entire grassboard and related parts.

to get my head examined!
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Postby Jim Becker » Fri Aug 06, 2004 11:13 pm

The L-22 definitely used a grass rod rather than a grass board. Boards were long gone before the L-22 came along. The grass stick plate is stamped steel. It is shown close to actual size, but that depends on your monitor size and settings. It reinforces the grass stick where it bolts to the grass board.

Whether to sharpen or replace the knife sections depends on how worn they are. There are grinding stones shaped to hit sides of 2 sections at once. If they are missharpened, the stone may not fit. I had that problem so I sharpened mine with a die grinder. The sections can be knocked off with a hammer (shearing direction on rivets). They can be riveted on using specific rivets that are commonly available. There are also small bolts available.

The clips that hold the knife down can be replaced if badly worn. If not bad, they can be adjusted with a hammer. I would think the usual used parts suppliers would have a stay rod (that holds the cutter bar up for transport).

There are some pictures of my L-22 in the photo album at
http://farmallcub.com/gallery/album02

Image
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Aug 07, 2004 10:14 am

I was raised on the old Farmalls, and the wooden grass boards look best, but as for as functional, the rod type is better. If you catch a wooden one on a fence or something, you replace it. if you catch one of the rod type on something you straighten it. Been there and done that on both of them.
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Postby Scott C » Mon Aug 09, 2004 3:27 pm

Marion,
I think a caption under the cat of "Ackkkk Phttttttt" would be appropriate.

to get or make the rod that holds it up for transport-I have no old part
to use as pattern.


I just made one (cause I lost the chain that was on it till now....).
I had some 1/4" stock, kinda small but probably strong enough. I compensated for the small stock bt welding a hitch pin on the end to fit the hole in the bar better.
Image

I just heated the rod up and made my bends on the fly to fit the bar in the raised position.
Image
Image

I tacked the loop closed just to make sure it will hold.
Image

In the cutting position, it has a hole to keep it out of the way.
Image

The hitch pin is fairly easy to hook up, I know the old style had a threaded nut to put on the end of the rod (I think).
Seems like it should last.
Image



to get the knives sharpened or replaced. Which is best? How do you
get em off and then get em on?

to get the parts that hold the knife bar down adjusted or replaced.
What is the best way to do this?


I got my knives at TSC and instead of rivets I got the bolts. I replaced a broken one a while ago and it's holding. I just replaced another that had sheared one rivet yesterday.

The guides or hold downs are also available at TSC.

I think it cost me about 15 bucks for heavy duty knives and the bolts (50 count).
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