Farmall Cub

Uh oh...

Well I found two cracks, and they look like doozies... But I don't think they are in the "normal" place, having gone back through all the threads about cracks in the tractor body?

Both of the cracks are between 3 and 4 inches long, and they run horizontally along the very front of the tractor, just above the starter crank hole. When I tap on the top of the casting, just in front of the radiator gasket, fluid comes out of the cracks... Is this coolant or just trapped water? Was that a hollow chamber for coolant storage inside that casting?

Crap crap crap...

Yes, that is your water, anti freeze resovore. you will need to have it welded, or replace it. Evadently your cub Froze, at one time. No Antifreeze. "Jack"

That is the radiator tank, and yes there is coolant in there. Cracks there are probably freeze cracks.

Allen,

That is very common on these Cubs. What you have is a cracked bolster. This is caused by freezing. The best soultion is to replace it with a known good part. It can be welded as Mr GW will most likley show but it takes some one who knows what they're doing with a casting. I made a temp fix with JB weld, (not the way to go).

When the bolster is cracked it also heaves the top of the bolster (where the radiaror sits). The radiator will not seal unless it sits on a flat surface.

Thank you all.

While I cost out a used and a new-if-available replacement, what is the easiest method of getting it repaired, should I remove the front end and take just the bolster in to be welded, ground, and then have the top re-machined to flatten/true it up?

Seems easier than rolling a dead tractor somewhere.

It seems that at the very front of the tractor, this isn't really a structural component at all - it just has a little pressure on it from the coolant, but very little pressure as far as I can tell considering the strength of a weld. I had the 454 in my boat sleeved and welded last year, and if that's held up, then there must be a simple way to fix this thing!

http://www.jptractorsalvage.com and http://www.tmtractor.com both sell them, and I think http://www.chowntractorparts.com in Canada may also have them.

Donny M wrote:It can be welded as Mr GW will most likley show

Is Mr. GW a reference to George Willer (did I get that name right?)... I did notice a post from a while back where somebody, perhaps Mr. Willer had said that welding was not sufficient? But that was referring to cracks in the block I think, and this is not in a part of the engine block, but on the foremost part of the tractor...

Sent them all an e-mail. Appears to be sold out where there was *evidence* of it being available

I emailed tmtractor about one a couple weeks ago. He said he doesn't expect any soon, and that if I see one, grab it! He said all the ones he's getting are cracked. I got a front end off ebay that was in a fire. the paint was burned off, but it should be fine.

I still gotta think its repairable...

Allen,
You are correct it is repairable. But, you have to find some one that knows how to weld castings. I know a place in Mississippi that does nothing but weld castings. I wouldn't get it done any place else. GMHO

allenlook
I have had three rad bolsters welded by three different welders that said they could fix them. The best idea is to look and wait for one that is not cracked, like some one in a earlier post when they freeze they bulge the top,you will not stop the rad from leaking.

allenlook,

Take a look at item #3831635469 on eBay.
I believe this what you are looking for.

Ron Henderson

Here is easy access to the eBay item.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... playType=2

Gosh, I don't know fellas.

I don't want to question the collective wisdom at all. Believe me.

In a former life I worked with rotating elements weighing tens of tons, and machined to tolerances of tenths of thousandths of inches... The welders who built, maintained and repaired the units could all weld a rock to a tree permanently, and this just doesn't seem like a structural area, nor does it seem all that difficult to remachine/lap the radiator seat back to flat, if it's even bowed at all based on this hairline crack...

I've gotta say I have a shot at fixing this one, and I'll give it a try based on the price of the "new" item.

BTW, thank you George for your picture of where to look for block cracks. So far, I don't see any, and I've removed at least two layers of gunk and paint in my search