Farmall Cub

I just changed from regular 30w oil to sythetic.
I put in Mobil 1 15w 50.
Before the change, the oil pressure was 20 lbs. when cold at fast idle, and 10 lbs. at idle.
After the change it doubled across the board, 40 lbs. at fast idle, 20 lbs. at idle (cold).
When hot the pressure was double what it was with regular oil, 20 lbs. at fast idle when hot and about 8 lbs. at idle.

Sounds good Dave. Keep us posted and let us know how it performs.

I was wondering if anyone has tryed the additives like Lucas or Restor to improve performance I use straight 30w and Lucas as an additive it seams to help keep the oil clean longer, but im not sure it helps with anything else.

I'm a firm believer in synthetic oils, I ran them in all my Porsches and had fantastic results in race and road conditions.

I ran Mobil 1 up front (I ran strictly water-cooled 9-series), and Swepco in the rear.

I have also run Amsoil in my family cars for years and I love the stuff because it's as good as Mobil 1 and I can get it in bulk.

I'll be switching my Cub over to synthetics when I get it put back together.

Dave, I haven't changed to full synthetic, but have changed to blended in my 48, that was last overhauled 17+ years ago, and got similiar results.

synthetic in everything, right down to the cub cadet 129. as long as the crankcase is not sludged up, it gets synthetic.

I've been using Mobil 1 10W-30 for 2 years now (year-round) with good oil pressure.

Hot oil pressure is after running a turn plow for 30 mins:

35 psi fast, 15 idle.

Ok guys:

This topic has been bounced around a lot over the last year or so... so....

1. Why should anyone put synthetics in the Cub?
2. Does it perform better?
3. Clean better?
4. Lubricate better?
5. Last longer?

Synthetic is much more expensive than regular low ash, and if you still have to change the oil 2x's/year, this could put you in the poor house!

Is synthetic applicable to Briggs and Stratton or Tecumseh engines as well?

For you guys who like it, make a case for the rest of us to chew on.... I for one would like to understand it.

Oh, same thing for me mini-van. It gets an oil change EVERY 5,000km or 3,000 miles roughly. If I went to synthetic what would be the purpose/benefit/savings?

I eagerly am awaiting opinions...

I'm not an engineer, definatly not an expert on much of anything, but it seems as if plain old 30 W non-detergent has kept an engine going for 50 plus years then what is gained by designer oils and additives ?? Don't mean to offend just M.H.O.

Well I have been using synthetics for abut ten years now. I put it a 85 Toyota truck I had with very little oil pressure and it doubled the pressure.We have a 95 Acclaim with 260000 km on it no promlems,my bil has a 95 Explorer with 380000 km no problems.I use it in everything I own even the lawn mower.It also makes for easy starting in the winter time that is when you really notice the difference. It will be going in the cub and cadet before the winter.Just my opinion.

Rudi
I usually buy mine at Wall-Mart they have the best price on it

I was a service manager for International Trucks for 5 years and if you
could show proof of using synthetic oil they would double the warranty
limits, (ie. 250k to 500k miles) for trans, and differentials.

I did not mean to mislead anybody .The 95 Aclaim has 260 thousand km on it the Explorer has380 thousand km on it . I had a finger problem on the zero!s.

Bruce:

The zero's were correct.

What brand, and how much is it??? At Walmart that is!

Rudi

Wal-Mart carries two or three brands Mobile Cdn brand 2000 Quaker I believe.They are usually around $25.00 for a four litre jug.I just change filters about every 3000 km,the oil will turn very dark but that is not a concern it just seems to do that. I do a change at about 80000 km
but some people I know go for a hundred thousand.

I used to work in the maintenance field, on heavy industrial equipment, and had the pleasure of working with some real experts in tribology (the science of slippery stuff.)

If the oil got dirty, that was their sign that it was doing its job, eg. picking up the contaminants that are guaranteed to exist in an internal combustion or high-wear electrical motor and suspending them safely so they can be carried to the filtration system.

The oil turning black is a good sign to me... Within reason.