Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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My 57 restoration is coming along pretty good.Everythings disassembled,engine in shop,waiting for tranny and final drive parts.I just read the post concerning synthetic oil.Do you guys recommend synthetic oil in my new engine.Also a question about rattle can primer,any favorite brands out there?Which is the best?I don't want to remove this primer when it comes time to prep for paint.Anybody ever heard of "OSPHO"?It's a liquid rust remover.I can't find it anywhere.
Can't help on the oil, but I am beginning to think that as soon as I use up what low ash I have, I just may convert over to synthetics.
As for the rattle cans - CaseIH dealers should have them in 2150. If not, the Ken over at Carter and Grunewald WILL have it!
It seems like that 90% of all the information that I have heard or read says to NOT use a synthetic in a new or rebuilt engine until after the engine is broken in and all parts have seated.
Then came Bronson
Simple answer is YES!
I have used the rattle can for my battery box and the 1 gallon can is going to be for Ellie!
Don't forget - use a decent primer ok!
A less than simple answer... the pigments are not all the same weight, so they tend to separate in the gallon can. Be very sure to stir the paint thoroughly any time you remove any from the can... even though it hasn't been very long.
Guess how I know that?
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
Most dealers also stock quarts.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
Well you are going to get some differing answers as each of us have our own preferences. Let us hope you can get a concensus on this.
I was over to a buddy's place last night. He is restoring/customizing a 1930 Ford Model A 1/4 ton pick me up. Each part is cleaned, primed and painted before re-assembly. It is gorgeous. This is how I am going to do mine. I do all my painting like this. I find it is the best for how I do things.
This way, you finish as you need to, no rust gets into things, no dust or anything else that will ruin a real good paint job.
Primer, well that again will bring forth much discussion. I am NO expert on primer, but I have learned over the years that you have to use the best you can reasonably afford. I personally like the high builds, but even the old red iron oxide primer is good if it is a good quality. Ask your automotive paint supplier. There is also a good product that you could use to inhibit rust that is applied before primer. Any good automotive paint supply store would know what it is.
Oh, yeah, GW was correct - sometimes the pigments differ. I always make sure to shake the cans well to thoroughly mix the paint. Most of the time it will be either right on or close, but sometimes differnt lots will produce different tones.
Brockway,Use the primer that is compatable to your paint.(Same brand)I painted Ned, ugly cub-( 4th place finisher in the ugly cub contest) each part disassembled, cleaned, preped and painted before installation.I thought it was a good .But You know as thinks get put back together.You ding and scratch the paint and you get I have to say to myself,"Its just a tractor" I really don't want a parade tractor.I can't see myself in a parade Just want to make it look nice.It does not look like this any more..I can't wait to get mud and snow all over it!
Touch up cans and barn paint and heavy orig. factory paint kept this metal intact.Nothing wrong with that. Tell those spiders to get off my tractor too there messing my paint up
Can I use Mobil Drive Clean Blend in a new engine?
You can start using Mobil Drive Clean Blend at any time, including in brand-new vehicles. The performance advantages of Mobil Drive Clean Blend can be realized from your very first mile on the road.
Young man for work, old man for advice
13 posts • Page 1 of 1
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