Fri Aug 20, 2004 6:11 am
Is there a short wire that goes from the "A" terminal on generator to the "Battery" terminal on cutout?
This is for a 48 Cub, distributor, battery start with starter solenoid (not original push rod).
PO's wiring has been a nightmare to correct. After running for 30 minutes the batterys to weak to kick motor over fast/hard enough to fire.
Good ammeter readings, volt readings at battery (thanks BigDog) all check out.
Connecting the coil's (-) wire to the run/kill switch then to (-) side of ammeter stopped my "smokin' light switch" ...see my earlier post.
Solenoid Wiring Diagram? Can't find it anywhere.
Single middle post solenoid, from that post wire goes to start switch, then from switch to (+) of ammeter.
Battery cable connects to large solenoid terminal as well as a wire from the (-) of ammeter.
Fri Aug 20, 2004 6:47 am
The short jumper goes from the generator "A" terminal to the cutout "Gen" terminal, not the "Bat" terminal.
Fri Aug 20, 2004 8:38 am
9mules, since you mentioned a solenoid being added do you have a 12 volt battery rather than a 6 volt one? I recently helped a friend get a WD45 running that had a 12 volt battery and ignition, but still had a 6 volt generator and cutout. Needles to say it didn't charge the battery very well. So far as I know (which sometimes isn't much) there weren't any cutouts used on 12 volt systems.
Fri Aug 20, 2004 9:57 am
BigDog, Yea your right, I've got that wire going already, just questioning a Farmall Cub wiring guru's suggestion.
John, its a 6V system, I'm questioning the solenoid wiring.
Historically, a chargin problem, new 1/0 cable & battery helped, wiring the "F" terminal @ Gen. to light switch helped, wiring the coil to (-) of ammeter helped (no more "smokin light switch", Ammeter reads within specs, 4-position switch kicks ammeter around like it should, but !@#$ after running her for awhile the starter just barely kicks around, its like the battery ain't getting no juice.
Thats why I question this solenoid thing & the fact that I can't find schematics about 'em.
I'm almost there.
Fri Aug 20, 2004 10:10 am
Get a cheap analog voltmeter (Walmart, Autozone, Radio Shack, etc) and with it cold check the voltage at the starter terminal, solenoid, battery, when cranking. Then so ti hot and see if you are getting a lower reading at one of them than the others. The voltag should stay above 4 1/2. Also try turning it with a cran hot and cold, to make sure the engine isn't stiffer hot than cold.
Fri Aug 20, 2004 11:55 am
It could be the starter motor itself although it shouldn't heat up from just the tractor running. The solenoid may be contributing to your problem as well. Does it crank over better if you jump it with another battery when it's hot? All indications from your descriptions say that the system is charging. Either the engine is binding up when hot or something is wrong with the starter. If the engine were binding up, there would be indications of that in the way it runs. So I think the starter and or solenoid is the issue. Since it is not original, the way it was wired depends on the knowledge of the person who wired it. Check for hot connections when it doesn't want to start.
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