Remove radiator/front casting to get at the governor?

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Remove radiator/front casting to get at the governor?

Postby Buzzard Wing » Wed Aug 25, 2004 4:41 pm

After a bit of head scratching about how to get at the governor (and trying to remove the fan shroud) I consulted the all knowing RUDI server.

Yikes, is that some kind of cruel joke??
Now I have to try to figure out how to support the front of the machine with a belly mower?? Remove the whole front casting??

Is there a secret you Cub guys can clue me in on?? (other than assume the governor is fine and that area of the machine is clean enough.)
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Postby Dan Robertson » Wed Aug 25, 2004 6:24 pm

On my 1955 cub you can remove the governor without going to that kind of disassembly that you mention, providing that the governor rockshaft ext. assembly can be removed from the governor first, ie; (not welded fast). Not sure now but the fan belt may need to be moved out of the way also. The fan blades can be positioned such that the governor can be moved forward between the blades enough to clear the front of the engine cover. I did this without having to remove the hood assembly also. Be sure to disconnect the throttle rod. :wink:
:) Dan Robertson :)

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Postby Buzzard Wing » Wed Aug 25, 2004 6:36 pm

I had to take the generator off anyway, and it is a lot easier to get at the governor with that out of the way.
Essentially, I am just trying to clean up the machine and make sure everything is ok.
There seems to be too much play in the shaft from the governor to the carb. and it does not idle low enough so it may just be an adjustment on the throttle 'shaft'.
The other owner said that area was very dirty (lots of years of dirt, grease etc.) which I took as a challenge to get it cleaner (and an insult!) He said 'it's only 4 bolts to take the radiator off'!
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Postby Bruce Sanford » Wed Aug 25, 2004 6:52 pm

BW

The four bolts he is talking about is the bolster with the rad attached to it,but you may damage the rad trying to handle it.You also have to disconnect the steering wheel bolts as well at the base as well to remove it :)
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Postby denton » Wed Aug 25, 2004 7:07 pm

I just had to replace the radiator, fan, shroud, and timing cover due to an accident in the field. I was mowing in tall grass and rammed a large tree through the whole front end.

Removing the entire front end is relatively easy even with a belly mower on. Simply jack up the tractor in the front and put some cribbing under the tractor. Make sure it's stable.

Now remove the hood, dog legs, Remove the four large bolts holding on the front end with a friend's help (I did it myself but it would be easier with a friend) and remove the front as a unit. Now you have pretty much unlimited access to the engine, charging system, fan, crank pulley and everything else. It takes about an hour to pull the front end off. Much less time with a friend helping. None of this is hard and, with the exception of the weight of the front end, is not dangerous.
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Wed Aug 25, 2004 8:44 pm

You guys are right on top of things.
I am not sure if I am going to yank the front casting just yet. I was shocked when I looked at it with the idead of getting in behind the fan. Apparently someone had removed the shroud some time back by cutting it and using a plate and 4 screws to hold it together. Spent some time trying to figure that one out, then I realized it was a hack.... screws are in there good and can't get a screwdriver on em either.

Thanks again for the advise.
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Postby Donny M » Wed Aug 25, 2004 9:05 pm

BW,

You will have to remove the governor rock shaft to remove the governor. It would also be a great help if you remove the fan and the radiator shroud. As for the idle problem, check the movement of the rock shaft if that is good then I'd check the governor spring. Sometimes they get streched.

There are plenty of posts reguarding fixing the rock shaft play.
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Postby beaconlight » Fri Aug 27, 2004 10:12 pm

I have a cub lowboy with an IH carb and the I adjusted the low idle lower by backing out the screw behind the carb where the rod from the
Gov Rock shaft fastens to the carb. I found it when I had the carb off yesterday. The screw was there all the time but I wasn't. Didn't say that right but I think you get the drift.
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Mon Aug 30, 2004 9:16 am

I have a new governor spring in hand!
The rock shaft does move freely and I think it can be worked on without taking the front casting off.
Just got the service manual and believe it or not they missed two pages (2-12 and 2-13) that cover the beginning of the governor.
I sent a message to Case/IH and will see how they respond. $27 for a photocopied book, it should have all the pages.
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Aug 30, 2004 12:33 pm

BW, you mentioned play in the governor rockshaft where it enters the governor. This is a common wear oint and can be repaired by making a shim to put around the shaft, or by using some Loctite on the shaft when reassembling. My 48 has both things done to it.
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Tue Aug 31, 2004 3:41 pm

Another great tip!
I will have a better idea of what I need to do when I get it back together.

Thanks
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