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The file download is not available. Http errors.
Soooo, I have just uploaded a new main page.
JB: The link to the download page for the real mccoy - Microsoft Powerpoint Viewer is right under CubFest Northeast 2004 link. Try that and let me know what happens, K?
FarmallCub49: try this viewer too, should alleviate the problem.
Last edited by Rudi on Thu Sep 02, 2004 12:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
can't see it with Netscape, but ok with IE. Looks like a great set up, now if I could just figure out how to save it on my hard drive.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
For those who want it I can email it to you. Should work fine. Only a 2.4meg file.
Excellent Rudi I already knew your tool boxes are wooden
Do you think with the tank being so mobile that it could find it's way to Texas
You will have to come for some BBQ's trout to find out
Well some nice man out there in cyberland seen my plea for help and made a special page for me to view Rudi`s tanks. Rudi asked me to post it here for others who may have trouble viewing the link he provided such as I do. I dont know how long this page will exist so try it now. Here it be.
Then came Bronson
Excellent.... I have one of those barrels behind my garage. Now I just need a big power supply.
I also have an old truck camper (anybody want it??) that has a poly water tank.... that would make a decent tank too. (mmm another project??)
As for a power point viewer... the free viewer is available from Microsoft:
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/deta ... laylang=en
Rudi, I know it could be an export issue... The US government sells everything in the world on this web site. This is where I got my 1 1/2 ton M102A2 army trailer ($200!). Airplanes to underware. You may just need to travel to Alaska to pick it up!
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
I have to ask a couple of questions.
1, When does Rudi sleep ?
2, Is Rudi the next Mr. George Willer in the making, or already there and just showing us a little at a time, because he is always so bussy contributing to the site and us on here , and helping neighbors and also hosting the Cubfest North East ?
GREAT job Rudi !!!! Paul K. in N.H.
I may be missing something, but I swear I can't find any details on exactly where all the wires go, and what you use to power it.
I presume that since there's only one positive wire and a whole bunch of negatives, that the negatives go to the rebars suspended in the tank? Where does the positive wire go? Do you just drop it in the tank?
What do you use to power it? I presume 12V battery power?
You are coming into the middle of a longer story. Go to Rudi's server and look at all the rust zapper stuff.
My article covers the basics. It includes 2 pointers, one of which is still good, for more information.
I will have to fix the presentation I guess. I made a mistake and made an ASSUMPTION! I know better, so I am the only one to blame. Also, you are not the only one to have asked that question. So here is my attempt at an answer to a good question.
Looking at the pic of the fully wired box - on the left hand side where the majority of the leads are - is the positive bus, bottom lead is the positive input and the others are the outputs to the rebar. There are 5 re-bars that are the electrodes, hence 5 red battery clamps. On the right side there are only 2 wires - the output goes to the chain and the bottom one is the negative input.
You should be able to see the two cables running under the door. They were fed under the door frame into my shop, where they are connected to a 12V/6A battery charger.
Jim can explain the process much better than I, so I am not even going to try. Suffice to say negative to part being cleaned, positive to sacraficial re-bars.
It dawned on me over the weekend: I took physics in college; I know how electrolysis works. Duh.
The only question that remained was the power source. Figured it was a 12V source of some sort, but figured it would take a HUGE battery to power it for any length of time. I would think connecting a relatively good sized 12V battery in between would help regulate the power a bit.
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