Mobil 1 V. IH LO ASH

Sun Oct 03, 2004 1:34 pm

I stopped at the "Case" dealer in Tucson Thursday and bought their last 5 gal. jug of Case IH Lo Ash 30 wt. They have dropped everything pertaining to the IH Ag Line. The name on everything there has been changed to just plain more IH :roll:

I had also recently bought my first Mobil 1 Synthetic 15 W 50. This was prompted by the good things that Jim and others had said about this oil.

Yesterday I poured about 1 oz. of each oil in two clean 5 oz jars with good lids and shook them up. The 15W50 Mobil 1 is higher vis. than the straight 30 wt. Lo Ash at 70 degrees. It also seems more dense and heavier than the 30 wt.

This morning I looked at the jars:
The Lo Ash jar had more oil on the sides and lid of the jar than did the synthetic :roll: I wiped the sides of each jar with my finger and actually got more oil off the Lo Ash jar :roll:

Lo Ash may break down faster than synthetic and may create sludge, but it seems to be a great oil. 563 has never had anything else in the crank and this won't change.


Sun Oct 03, 2004 4:00 pm


I just put Mobil 1 in 49-1 it seems to be doing ok. But I now have a slight leak at the drain when it didn't leak with 30w. Yes the plug is tight 8)

Sun Oct 03, 2004 4:05 pm


I am sticking with the CaseIH oil until I am forced to change. Good enough for almost 60 years, is good enough for me :!:

Sun Oct 03, 2004 4:05 pm

:lol: There is only one true way to find out which is the best oil and that is the "Blindfolded" taste test. :twisted: :mrgreen:


Sun Oct 03, 2004 8:00 pm

Mike; take good care of old 563, cause I want to take her for another spin next year at Cub-A-Rama. What a sweet tractor!!!! CHUCK :D

Mon Oct 04, 2004 3:20 pm

I've been using the mobil 1 10W-30 for years now and had no problems with it.


Mon Oct 04, 2004 4:14 pm

OK, here's a question to ponder...
I have been told that in my 55 Loy boy they must have run detergent oil and that I shouldn't change it to non detergent oil because it will develop leaks. Any truth to taht?


Mon Oct 04, 2004 4:28 pm

I'm definitely not an expert on the subject, but the only problems I have ever heard of are going the other way - non detergent to detergent. that will sometimes loosen the accumulated sludge and cause some problems with oill passages becoming clogged.

Mon Oct 04, 2004 4:37 pm

I don't know that it would cause leaking but I would question why, after knowing the engine has been run with detergent, would you switch to non-detergent? You're inviting sludge build-up and ultimately, inefficient lubrication.

Mon Oct 04, 2004 7:10 pm

Donny M wrote:Mike,

I just put Mobil 1 in 49-1 it seems to be doing ok. But I now have a slight leak at the drain when it didn't leak with 30w. Yes the plug is tight 8)

Donny, it's been my experience that sythetic oil works very well for newer, tight engines. My 2 Toyotas and my Gold Wing all love it. Neither of our Saabs did, as they leaked it all over the place. Switched back to dino..leaks stopped.

We had a test oil program for years in the trucks where I worked. Synthetic resulted in better cold weather starting as the oil didn't congeal, but those 2-cycle Detroits (which are known for leaking oil) spit that stuff all over the place.

Soooo, IMHO synthetic rules, but it'll find any leak that's even THINKING about developing. I run mineral in my Cub....

Mon Oct 04, 2004 9:17 pm

I re-built the engine in 49-1 so sludge isn't a problem. I'm thinking the synthetic is a lot like glycol. As glycol will find a leak where water won't so will synthetic find a leak where (real) oil won't.
I just tried the synthetic to check it out. Not a big problem with the only leak being the drain pulg...a little RTV and a hose clamp will fix that :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

Mon Oct 04, 2004 9:18 pm

Jeff M, Why are you running mineral oil in your Cub :?:


Tue Oct 05, 2004 7:46 am

Mike.....I don't know what kind of dealer you have in AZ, but I know for a fact that the IH has NOT been dropped!. I agree with Rudi that Lo-Ash is THE oil to run in IH gas engines. IH engineering tests have proved that its lower sulfated ash content (that's where the "low ash name comes from) reduces valve deposits and torching.

Whatever route you decide to go, use only a detergent oil. Non-detergent is the same as pouring is pure dirt and its HUGE waste of your $$$$.

Remember that some oil is better than no oil at all....

Tue Oct 05, 2004 8:14 am

Here's my 2 cents to the oil debate.

Detergent oil will only keep solids suspended better than non-detergent oil. A detergent additive will not clean a dirty engine, that's Madison Ave hype. The detergents used in oil are VERY different from detergents used to clean clothes, it's a misconception that advertizers have perpetuated in order the hawk their product as being better than the competition.

The ability to 'clean' the engine as you drive would destroy the lubricating ability of the oil. Think about the chemicals used to dissolve sludge deposits when you tear down an engine, would you use that as an oil additive? I hope not.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Tue Oct 05, 2004 7:10 pm

mltiema wrote:Jeff M, Why are you running mineral oil in your Cub :?:


Mike, (1) I figure it'll leak synthetic like my Saabs did, and (2) I change twice yearly anyway because I'm using single grade non-detergent.