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I want to use a by pass block to angle my snow blade. Before I painted my cub this last spring I installed a by-pass block, now mowing season is ending and I am getting ready for the snow season. Other parts of the country have four seasons during the year but here in Michigan I only notice the two. I don't have a problem mounting the valve or cyclinder, but plumbing it maybe. Out of the manifold to the in on the valve, out of the valve to the bottom of the block, two working ports to the cyclinder, but will the fluid returning from the cyclinder exit through the out when I reverse direction or do I need another line retuning to the fill plug? I believe the system will work with the in and out lines plus the two to the cyclinder once the air is purged and the touch reservoir is topped. There is a by-pass port on the valve, but I don't think I need to use it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Ted
From the pressure side of the bypass block to the IN on the valve. From the OUT on the valve to the return on the bypass block. Two lines to the cylinder, and you'll be all set.
I believe the BYPASS port on the valve serves the same purpose as the bypass block on the touch control. It's so you can run pressure to another valve.
If I was going to do that, I'd hang a small reservoir for hydraulic fluid under the platform. Probably a 2-gallon tank. Unless you pre-fill the cylinder and lines, you'll run the touch control dry.
I too want to do the same thing you are doing but I want to put in a double spool system so I can run my fast hitch seperate from the front hyd's and still have tilt for the rear blade or my front blade.
I would like to see your set up. did you build your own hyd by-pass block?
I have a fab drawing but have not had a chance to have the guys in the shop build it for me yet.
where in saginaw are you?
Matt Thanks, I mounted the valve whith quick disconects on the in and out to fill the valve and check that the touch control it worked ok and to check for leaks. Then refilled the reservoir. Connected the cyclinder which isn't mounted yet and it seemed to work fine and refilled the resevoir. I think I can get away without a separate reservoir. Ted
cjpenny While I might have been able to build a by-pass block if I had the specs, the cost that wkpoor supplied me one for made fabricating one not a practical matter in my opinion. Even the $75.00 TM-Tractor has them for seems a good buy compared to trying to build one, unless you have access to a machine shop. I live 1/2 mile north of Swan Creek and about 3 to 4 miles east of M-52 Ted
wk here, been out for a while. Just glanced over this post and thought I would give a little input. The remote valve you use to run your whatever must have a power beyond plug installed to allow fluid to flow back to the touch control so that both systems will work independent from a single flow source. When you installed the by-pass block the touch control system becomes secondary to the added system. As long as all the cylinders in your system are 2-way no extra fluid will be needed. Later Bill
There were a couple of reasons I mentioned an auxiliary reservoir:
1. Filling the cylinders the first time. The Touch Control only holds 3-1/2 pints. If your cylinders are of any appreciable size, and they aren't full when you install them, you could run the touch control dry and damage the pump.
2. Heat buildup. If you're using the hydraulics with any frequency, a larger reservoir keeps the fluid from getting too hot.
I believe an "open center" spool valve allows the pressurized fluid to flow through when the valve is not being actuated. It's the same thing as "power beyond" to the best of my knowledge.
Matt- I think your #1 has a little merrit butt is a problem that could be easily over come by being careful to keep reservoir full during initial system movement. #2 is true also depending on what you intend to do. The rule of thumb is reservoir qty equal to pump gpm. However many systems do not meet that requirement if they are to be used intermitent and work just fine. #3 Power beyond is much different than return fluid from valve. The by-pass block allows you to run to 2 totally separate systems from a single source yet still using the same reservoir. The out port from your valve will plumb into the fill port of your touch control. The power beyond port allows fliud under pressure to route back into your touch control the same place it went in before the block was added. If you tied your valve return into your touch control pressure port there would be no place for return fluid to go when using the auxillary system. Think of it this way- you are supplying 2 systems in parallel from a single pump. I would be glad to talk to anyone in person about this if they wish. E-mail me your number or message me and I'll call you. Bill (email@example.com)
The simplest way to plumb in the external valve is the way Ted described it. One line runs from the pressure tap on the Touch-Control manifold to the "IN" of the valve. A second line runs from the valve "OUT" to the opening in the bottom of the bypass block. If you want 2 valves, run a line from "OUT" of one to "IN" of the other. This assumes open center valves, which most are.
Whether you need an auxiliary reservoir depends on the cylinders you will be using. Two ways don't require as much extra reservoir as one ways, but they may still require an addition (based on the stroke and size of the piston rod). That is why the manuals say to check the fluid with the rockshafts in the rear position.
Jim, I have to disagree with you on this on. If you look at the way the IH loader was plumbed you will notice it also utilized the power beyond feature of the aux valve and return fluid went back to the touch control reservoir at the fill point. Besides, the port size on the touch control in is way too small to accomodate return volume from a cylinder.
I have never done any more with the 1000 loader than casually look at them. It appears the return dumps directly into the auxiliary reservoir. The line going into theTouch-Control filler comes from the auxiliary reservoir. There is plenty of other equipment plumbed exactly as I described. The return volume from a cylinder isn't much different from what the pump sent to it.
I don't know what you guys are talking about. However my cylinder is mounted and it works very well. It took a while to decide how to mount the cylinder to get full swing of the blade at the end of the cylinders travel. I don't have a reservoir and don't expect a problem of too much heat while pushing snow. Looks pretty simple now, but I had no idea how anything worked a week ago. Will take some pictures incase Rudi wants to include them in his site. Thanks everyone. Ted
And there was the possibility of doubt
Whenever you have em ready, send em to me by email. Will upload asap.
Thanks for keeping the server and our fellow cubbers in mind!
I have seen some of his pictures and it looks like Cyrus McComick approved it him self. Looks like a factory option. I have ordered the same valve and fixing to go back and order the same fittings. the valve is small and fits the Cub very well. Now I need ideas on how and where to put the cylinder to run the Puckett scoop. Should I run the rear rockshaft with the cylinder? No that will still limit stroke. Then where to keep it out of the way of the dirt. No room for nuttin but dirt.
Young man for work, old man for advice
14 posts • Page 1 of 1
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