This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link:
Privacy Policy

NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.

Hydraulic by-pass block installation

The Cub Club -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
User avatar
tnestell
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 595
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 2:01 am
Zip Code: 48609
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Mi, Saginaw

Hydraulic by-pass block installation

Postby tnestell » Sun Oct 10, 2004 5:08 am

I want to use a by pass block to angle my snow blade. Before I painted my cub this last spring I installed a by-pass block, now mowing season is ending and I am getting ready for the snow season. Other parts of the country have four seasons during the year but here in Michigan I only notice the two. I don't have a problem mounting the valve or cyclinder, but plumbing it maybe. Out of the manifold to the in on the valve, out of the valve to the bottom of the block, two working ports to the cyclinder, but will the fluid returning from the cyclinder exit through the out when I reverse direction or do I need another line retuning to the fill plug? I believe the system will work with the in and out lines plus the two to the cyclinder once the air is purged and the touch reservoir is topped. There is a by-pass port on the valve, but I don't think I need to use it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Ted

SPONSOR AD

Sponsor



Sponsor
 

Matt Kirsch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 4948
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:04 pm
Zip Code: 14559
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Rochester, NY

Postby Matt Kirsch » Mon Oct 11, 2004 7:32 am

From the pressure side of the bypass block to the IN on the valve. From the OUT on the valve to the return on the bypass block. Two lines to the cylinder, and you'll be all set.

I believe the BYPASS port on the valve serves the same purpose as the bypass block on the touch control. It's so you can run pressure to another valve.

If I was going to do that, I'd hang a small reservoir for hydraulic fluid under the platform. Probably a 2-gallon tank. Unless you pre-fill the cylinder and lines, you'll run the touch control dry.

User avatar
cjpenny89
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1080
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 1:15 pm
Location: St. Charles, MI 48655

Postby cjpenny89 » Mon Oct 11, 2004 9:55 am

tnestell
I too want to do the same thing you are doing but I want to put in a double spool system so I can run my fast hitch seperate from the front hyd's and still have tilt for the rear blade or my front blade.
I would like to see your set up. did you build your own hyd by-pass block?
I have a fab drawing but have not had a chance to have the guys in the shop build it for me yet.
where in saginaw are you?
Chad Penny

User avatar
tnestell
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 595
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 2:01 am
Zip Code: 48609
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Mi, Saginaw

Postby tnestell » Tue Oct 12, 2004 5:26 am

Matt Thanks, I mounted the valve whith quick disconects on the in and out to fill the valve and check that the touch control it worked ok and to check for leaks. Then refilled the reservoir. Connected the cyclinder which isn't mounted yet and it seemed to work fine and refilled the resevoir. I think I can get away without a separate reservoir. Ted

User avatar
tnestell
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 595
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 2:01 am
Zip Code: 48609
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Mi, Saginaw

Postby tnestell » Tue Oct 12, 2004 6:01 am

cjpenny While I might have been able to build a by-pass block if I had the specs, the cost that wkpoor supplied me one for made fabricating one not a practical matter in my opinion. Even the $75.00 TM-Tractor has them for seems a good buy compared to trying to build one, unless you have access to a machine shop. I live 1/2 mile north of Swan Creek and about 3 to 4 miles east of M-52 Ted

WKPoor
10+ Years
10+ Years

Postby WKPoor » Wed Oct 13, 2004 7:22 pm

wk here, been out for a while. Just glanced over this post and thought I would give a little input. The remote valve you use to run your whatever must have a power beyond plug installed to allow fluid to flow back to the touch control so that both systems will work independent from a single flow source. When you installed the by-pass block the touch control system becomes secondary to the added system. As long as all the cylinders in your system are 2-way no extra fluid will be needed. Later Bill

Matt Kirsch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 4948
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:04 pm
Zip Code: 14559
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Rochester, NY

Postby Matt Kirsch » Thu Oct 14, 2004 1:03 pm

There were a couple of reasons I mentioned an auxiliary reservoir:

1. Filling the cylinders the first time. The Touch Control only holds 3-1/2 pints. If your cylinders are of any appreciable size, and they aren't full when you install them, you could run the touch control dry and damage the pump.

2. Heat buildup. If you're using the hydraulics with any frequency, a larger reservoir keeps the fluid from getting too hot.

I believe an "open center" spool valve allows the pressurized fluid to flow through when the valve is not being actuated. It's the same thing as "power beyond" to the best of my knowledge.

WKPoor
10+ Years
10+ Years

Postby WKPoor » Thu Oct 14, 2004 5:09 pm

Matt- I think your #1 has a little merrit butt is a problem that could be easily over come by being careful to keep reservoir full during initial system movement. #2 is true also depending on what you intend to do. The rule of thumb is reservoir qty equal to pump gpm. However many systems do not meet that requirement if they are to be used intermitent and work just fine. #3 Power beyond is much different than return fluid from valve. The by-pass block allows you to run to 2 totally separate systems from a single source yet still using the same reservoir. The out port from your valve will plumb into the fill port of your touch control. The power beyond port allows fliud under pressure to route back into your touch control the same place it went in before the block was added. If you tied your valve return into your touch control pressure port there would be no place for return fluid to go when using the auxillary system. Think of it this way- you are supplying 2 systems in parallel from a single pump. I would be glad to talk to anyone in person about this if they wish. E-mail me your number or message me and I'll call you. Bill (wkpoor@aol.com)

Jim Becker
Team Cub
Team Cub
Posts: 17272
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
Zip Code: 55319
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MN

Postby Jim Becker » Fri Oct 15, 2004 11:06 pm

The simplest way to plumb in the external valve is the way Ted described it. One line runs from the pressure tap on the Touch-Control manifold to the "IN" of the valve. A second line runs from the valve "OUT" to the opening in the bottom of the bypass block. If you want 2 valves, run a line from "OUT" of one to "IN" of the other. This assumes open center valves, which most are.

Whether you need an auxiliary reservoir depends on the cylinders you will be using. Two ways don't require as much extra reservoir as one ways, but they may still require an addition (based on the stroke and size of the piston rod). That is why the manuals say to check the fluid with the rockshafts in the rear position.

WKPoor
10+ Years
10+ Years

Postby WKPoor » Sat Oct 16, 2004 4:18 pm

Jim, I have to disagree with you on this on. If you look at the way the IH loader was plumbed you will notice it also utilized the power beyond feature of the aux valve and return fluid went back to the touch control reservoir at the fill point. Besides, the port size on the touch control in is way too small to accomodate return volume from a cylinder.

Jim Becker
Team Cub
Team Cub
Posts: 17272
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
Zip Code: 55319
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MN

Postby Jim Becker » Sat Oct 16, 2004 5:17 pm

I have never done any more with the 1000 loader than casually look at them. It appears the return dumps directly into the auxiliary reservoir. The line going into theTouch-Control filler comes from the auxiliary reservoir. There is plenty of other equipment plumbed exactly as I described. The return volume from a cylinder isn't much different from what the pump sent to it.

User avatar
tnestell
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 595
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 2:01 am
Zip Code: 48609
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Mi, Saginaw

Postby tnestell » Sat Oct 16, 2004 7:04 pm

I don't know what you guys are talking about. However my cylinder is mounted and it works very well. It took a while to decide how to mount the cylinder to get full swing of the blade at the end of the cylinders travel. I don't have a reservoir and don't expect a problem of too much heat while pushing snow. Looks pretty simple now, but I had no idea how anything worked a week ago. Will take some pictures incase Rudi wants to include them in his site. Thanks everyone. Ted

User avatar
Rudi
Cub Pro
Cub Pro
Posts: 28706
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 8:37 pm
Zip Code: E1A7J3
Skype Name: R.H. "Rudi" Saueracker, SSM
Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub "Granny"
1948 Cub "Ellie-Mae"
1968 Cub Lo-Boy
Dad's Putt-Putt
IH 129 CC
McCormick 100 Manure Spreader
McCormick 100-H Manure Spreader
Post Hole Digger
M-H #1 Potato Digger
Circle of Safety: Y
Twitter ID: Rudi Saueracker, SSM
Location: NB Dieppe, Canada
Contact:

Postby Rudi » Sat Oct 16, 2004 8:51 pm

Ted:

And there was the possibility of doubt :?: :?: :?: :shock: :lol:

Whenever you have em ready, send em to me by email. Will upload asap.


Thanks for keeping the server and our fellow cubbers in mind!
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship


User avatar
Jim Hudson
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1224
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 1:11 pm
Zip Code: 28001
Location: Albemarle, North Carolina 28001

Postby Jim Hudson » Sun Oct 17, 2004 3:16 am

I have seen some of his pictures and it looks like Cyrus McComick approved it him self. Looks like a factory option. I have ordered the same valve and fixing to go back and order the same fittings. the valve is small and fits the Cub very well. Now I need ideas on how and where to put the cylinder to run the Puckett scoop. Should I run the rear rockshaft with the cylinder? No that will still limit stroke. Then where to keep it out of the way of the dirt. No room for nuttin but dirt.
Image
Young man for work, old man for advice


Return to “Farmall Cub”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: radioguy41 and 23 guests