Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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It looks like I am going to have to have the engine bored out .20 over and the valves ground.
This will be my first time to take a block to a machine shop. About how many dollars is this going to cost. I know the prices will vary, just trying to get an idea.
If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use duct tape.
Depends on shop and location, but around here (eastern rural Missouri) it runs about $500 incliding parts, but I have heard prices in other areas as high as $1000. the 4500 was with the engine already disassembled when it went to the shop and being reassembled and rings gapped after I got it back.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
In the Baltimore, Md. area, the best price I got was:
Bore & hone = $125
Boil & Degrease = $75
Clean, check & polish crank = $45
Power wash (after completing work) = $30
The above prices exclude labor to disassemble or assemble, and do not include the cost of new parts. Also, prices do not include any work on the head or valves.
1948 Cub w/ snowplow
Here is what it cost me:
Acid wash (block cleaning) $25
Boring & honing: $8/cyl
Grinding valve seats: $45
My crank was bad, but I found a NOS crank, Camshaft, and lifters for $250
The cub I rebuilt (1947) had never been overhauled, and it was quite worn. The tractor still had STD pistons, but the block had to be bored to .040 to clean up, and actually should have gone to 0.060 if I could have found the pistons.
My business is based out of Newton Illinois, but I live in Austin, MN.. I had to move up here when I got married a few years ago due to what my wife gets paid... It is an inconvienience, but my father helps out as far as shipping & inventory back in Illinois.
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
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