Battery Cable Length?

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jsmit
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Battery Cable Length?

Postby jsmit » Thu Oct 14, 2004 8:05 am

What is the negative terminal battery cable length? I tried a 36" and a 54" both too short (didn't measure). More fun to ask here, especially after making mistakes like this!!!

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Postby Jim Becker » Thu Oct 14, 2004 9:08 am


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Postby Bigdog » Thu Oct 14, 2004 9:37 am

I made mine 84". I measured the 50+ year-old cable I removed and it was 84" also.
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batter cable length

Postby Eugene » Thu Oct 14, 2004 11:39 am

Mine was 72". I removed the old cable and measured it. Went to the auto parts store. They had a red 12 volt one on the rack. I think it cost just under $7.00. The purchased cable is a tad smaller in wire gage than the original. I haven't noticed any problems with the smaller wire gage.

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Postby jsmit » Thu Oct 14, 2004 1:02 pm

Thanks to all who replied, there really is a wealth of knowledge on these old beasts in here. For perspective, my 52 Cub is 22 years older than I am! Thanks again.
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Re: batter cable length

Postby Bigdog » Thu Oct 14, 2004 2:06 pm

Eugene wrote:Mine was 72". I removed the old cable and measured it. Went to the auto parts store. They had a red 12 volt one on the rack. I think it cost just under $7.00. The purchased cable is a tad smaller in wire gage than the original. I haven't noticed any problems with the smaller wire gage.


Eugene - While the connections are fresh, clean and tight, you may not have any problems. After a period of time as the connections naturally corrode you will find that even slight resistance matters a lot with the smaller diameter cables. I have worked on systems where just the ground cable was small diameter and found that they quickly heat up if cranking the enging for even breif periods. Heat means reisitance and resistance means voltage drop. Those small cables will heat up every time you start the engine and when you need it most (cold weather) the delivery of energy will be reduced to the starter.
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Postby John Niekamp » Thu Oct 14, 2004 5:48 pm

Jsmit


Well funny that you asked this question. Just last Sat. I went to a local tractor salvage yard to try to locate some headlights that I could make due and work on my 55 Cub Lo-Boy.

Well most of the older stuff had already been hauled off to the scrap yard. I did however find me a Cub that was hiding in the weeds that must have been over-looked. I'm guessing that this tractor must have been an older tractor, because it did not have an ammeter, just a place where you kock out a plug on the dash and put one in and the torque tube wasn't drilled for the touch control cylinder. Really about all was left was from the torqe tube on back with one wheel and tire, dash and the steering shaft mount. The rear end cover was off for years and the rear end was full if water and naturally rust.

I was ready to walk on past when I noticed there was still a black battery cable attached with bailing wire. I took it off, it was newer one than mine, but still old and stiff. It was in good shape however and had a brass solder on battery post terminal on. My old one is cloth wrapped rubber and this one I brought home was just black vinal or plastic, what ever they are made from.

NOW, back to your question finially. My original cloth wrapped cable is 75 inches long, this newer one, (off of an older Cub) is 86 inches long. from center of battery clamp to center of terminal.


John Niekamp (as usual making a short story long)

PS: Going back out this weekend and buy that poor little abandon Cub, or what's left of him before it found and hauled to the scrap yard. Keep this under your hat and PLEASE don't tell Mary

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu Oct 14, 2004 9:46 pm

JohnN, never heard of a cub that wasn't drilled for the touch control. That would be a real find, even if it's only partial. Might take a closer look and see if the holes were actually corked and painted over.
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Postby PA_to_TX_Cub » Thu Oct 14, 2004 9:52 pm

i recently replaced the negative cable on my '48 with a 1 gauge cable 80" long. i soldered the spade and battery lug instead of using a crimp or clamp lug. i also replaced the positive cable with a flat-braided 2 gauge strap attached to one of the battery box mounting bolts. the starter turns the motor over a lot faster. i'd say at least 50% faster.

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Postby John Niekamp » Thu Oct 14, 2004 10:26 pm

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:JohnN, never heard of a cub that wasn't drilled for the touch control. That would be a real find, even if it's only partial. Might take a closer look and see if the holes were actually corked and painted over.


Good thought here John*Cub, I didn't even think of that being the case, but I bet your right on that thought. Then again the little tractor was buried underneath another tractor among weeds and bees. I got my cable and ran away like a big chicken. I was actually wanted to see if the clutch yoke was still there, but I really didn't care to get a bee stung, made them mad enough, as it was.

I'm calling them tomororw and see if I can buy the whole thing reguardless what year it may be for. Just never know when one might need a torque tube housing or axel housing or whatever Murphy might throw at a person.

John

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Oct 15, 2004 8:28 am

Be careful of thoses stings. I got into some yellow jackets last Thursday, and ended up having to go to the emeergency room Saturday. Had a sting on my upper arem that cellulitis (infection in soft tissue next to bone) had set up in. Having an artificial hip you go to great lengths to avoid infections. It can go to the hip and then they have to remove it for 6 months.
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Battery Cable length

Postby Eugene » Fri Oct 15, 2004 11:03 am

Big Dog:

I agree with your statement. I needed the cable in a hurry, as there was no insulation on the old cable. I'll give the 12 volt cable a try over the winter. Worse case I'll have to go to a larger wire size.

Thought. That 12 volt cable will crank over a 250 cubic inch or larger car motor. I'm thinking that the 12 volt cable should be able to handle the 60 ci Cub engine, 1/4 the size, without a problem.

Any way. Your comment is appreciated. Thanks

Eugene

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Postby rleggitt » Mon Oct 18, 2004 8:35 pm

Hi jsmit,

Concerning the battery cable length; I have had good success with going
to a parts house and haveing them make me up some out of #1 "0"
welding cable/wire. They crimped on the bronze ends and I added a little
solder. The cost was $7.50 each at 84 inch length. The wires are smaller
and this makes the cable easier to bend and flex.

Just thought i would pass on for thought.


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