Farmall Cub

I have a 1948 cub that I recently purchased. My problem is that all the hy tran is leaking out by the brakes. I want to know what i am getting inot before i take it apart and what i should be looking for. I am used to working on trucks so i thought it may be an axle seal but i cannot find them on any parts websites. Any help is appreciated.
Jim

dutch1,
The first thing to check is the fluid level in the tranny. The tranny may be over full causing your problem. There is a pipe pulg on the left side of the tranny close to the bottom. This plug is for checking the fluid level. Take out the plug and see if fluid runs out, if so it is over full. The tranny only holds 3 1/2 pints or 56 oz.

Dutch1, the seals are still available, I just bought a set from my Case IH dealer a couple of weeks ago. But as Donny said, it is likely over-full.

Many times the overfill is from water leaking in to the tranny and when you open the drain out comes a white frothy fluid of water and lub. The fluid level plug on mine isn't a pipe plug but a hex head that looks like a thin bolt head. I understand that some are a 4 sided indent that a socket wrench handle will go into.
Aparts list is available in Rudis site. There is also some info there on cross ref info.
Bill

Another good point (Thanks Lombard) is that many times, using Hy-tran fluid in older cubs where the seals have not been replaced creates a lot of leaks that you don't see with 80 - 90 weight gear oil due to the difference in viscosity. Switching to 90 wt. might help.

I have a 48 and I had the same trouble. Found out that I had to much oil in the tranny. Once I drained it and filled it to the correct level, it has not leaked
by the brakes since. I would sure try that first and then check the seals.
Bill

As indicated by the more expienced, you probably have bad seals where the differential meets the drive housings. Not a difficult fix. I have a '48 as well and the right side was leaking like a sieve. In fact, the side was so gooped up that the brake's would grab. I purchase replacements from NAPA for about $19.00. You'll need to support the rear of the tractor, remove the wheels, then remove the final drives. The drives are somewhat heavy but not back breaking. You might have to whack the drives a bit to loosen them but they should pull out ok. On the right side, you'll then need to remove the drive shaft bell housing. You'll then see a real beat up, dirt infested crudded up seal. Take a screwdriver to the thing and pry it out of there but be careful not to mar the cast. When replacing, with the new seal, find a socket that has the same diameter and use this as a drive so that the seal goes in nice and flush. Viola, problem solved.

By the time you figure out which bolts you'll need to loosen and how to jack the tractor up, figure about 3 hours soup to nuts. When you're doing it again in 5 years or so, it will take you 1

Hope this helps.