Frozen Bolt - any secrets?

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Frozen Bolt - any secrets?

Postby David » Wed Nov 03, 2004 10:43 pm

Hi All -
I am trying to get the seat piller off, and the main bolt that holds the assembly to the tractor is frozen solid. Any ideas?

I have used my impact wrench, but the head started kinda rounded, and is now really rounded. Tried vise grips also, but can't budge it. I also sprayed a bunch of Kroil on it, but the problem is that I don't think the Kroil can actually get to the threads because of the plate that it is holding down.

Any ideas would be greatfully appreciated.

Thanks

David
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Postby Rudi » Wed Nov 03, 2004 10:47 pm

David:

Keep hitting it with the Kroil.

Next, go to Sears and buy the set of Bolt Outs -- Best thing to hit the market in years. Some glad my kids listened to my request - got me the first half for Christmas and the Completer set for Father's Day. Really come in handy working on the Cub.

They are designed specifically for rounded off heads on bolts!

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Postby Dan England » Thu Nov 04, 2004 6:29 am

I second Rudi's comments. They will also grasp the shaft of the bolt and allow its removal if the bolt head breaks off. Dan
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Postby Dale51 » Thu Nov 04, 2004 7:06 am

The bolt outs are good.
But here is a old trick if you have a welder.
put a new nut on top of the bolt then reach down in the middle of the nut & weld it to the bolt head burn it in well.
This does 2 things
1 it gives you a new place to wrench
2 heats the bolt & breaks rust loose.
If you break the nut off just weld a nother on & start again.
If it's been broken I did it.
If its not broken wait till I touch it.
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Postby beaconlight » Thu Nov 04, 2004 9:07 am

All penetrating oil takes a while to penetrate. Keep hitting it with a little a couple of times a day. Even with out a welder a B tank or a propane tourch will help break it loose. After each heating more penetrating oil.
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu Nov 04, 2004 9:11 am

Dale51 wrote:put a new nut on top of the bolt then reach down in the middle of the nut & weld it to the bolt head burn it in well.
This does 2 things
1 it gives you a new place to wrench
2 heats the bolt & breaks rust loose.
If you break the nut off just weld a nother on & start again.
The same procedure also works well on rusted in pipe plugs.
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Postby Cub-Bud » Thu Nov 04, 2004 10:24 am

I have the small size set of bolt-outs. What is the number of the larger set and what sizes are included :?:
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Postby beaconlight » Thu Nov 04, 2004 10:32 am

This is from a previous thread on the subject.

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Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2004 5:22 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

52161
#2 5/16 8mm
#4 10mm
#8 13mm
#12 11/16
#13 3/4 19mm

52160
#3 3/8 in
#5 7/16 11mm
#7 1/2 in
#9 9/16 14mm
#10 5/8 in 16mm

off the back of the box.
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Postby David » Thu Nov 04, 2004 11:00 am

Thanks for all the great ideas!
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu Nov 04, 2004 5:14 pm

Cub-Bud wrote:I have the small size set of bolt-outs. What is the number of the larger set and what sizes are included :?:
They are also available at Autozone, sometimes cheaper than Sears, sometimes higher.
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Postby cuballen » Thu Nov 04, 2004 9:00 pm

Any penetrating oil is good. The best I have found is called "Rid-Rust". It is made by Rotanium. Also, take a hammer and hit the head of the bolt with a pretty good lick several times. This stretches the threads and loosens the rust. A machinist taught me that trick years ago. Hope this helps.
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Postby David » Thu Nov 04, 2004 9:53 pm

Thanks. Not had great luck tonight. Bought the Sears bolt-out kit, only to get home and find the largest (3/4") was not big enough. Decided to the welding the nut trick, but it was so moist outside (lots of rain hear in CT), I couldn't even strike an arc!

Next - decided to get my grinder out to grind two parallel sides. Thought I could get my large crescent wrench onto it, but unfortunately the sides of the seat bracket assembly would not allow me to get the wrench in square.

Since I can't see any larger bolt-outs, I think maybe the trick is to grind down the head a little, to be able to get the 7/8" bolt-out tool on it.

Thanks for the introduction of the bolt-out as I was able to remove two smaller bolts that had proved elusive so far.

Thanks
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Postby beaconlight » Thu Nov 04, 2004 10:08 pm

Good to see some progress. Keep hitting it with the penetrating and the idea of rapping it jars things and helps penetration.
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Postby LARRY BALL » Sun Nov 07, 2004 1:45 pm

I HAVE USED RUDI'S SUGGESTION MANY A TIME. IT "ALWAYS" WORKS. WELD A MUCH LARGER NUT TO THE ROUNDED BOLT HEAD. THE HEAT FROM WELDING THE NUT ON THE BOLT, ALONG WITH A GOOD PENETRANT "WILL WORK"! 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
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Postby Jim Hudson » Sun Nov 07, 2004 2:23 pm

Heat bolt with torch. (not propane torch) and if you have a way to turn it after it cools it will be much looser. Don't melt the cast to it. I have burned them out with a cutting tip but it ruins the tip.
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