Need Help With Mid 1949 F-Series Farmall Cub

[bob in CT]

I was looking in the cabinet yesterday and found 2 gas tank gauge sticks. I bet I could hold one for you. Bob I do not have a compression gauge but I know where to get one.

I can bring one

[Timex]

Would you believe it, I found an Auto Parts store open today (Labor Day) and purchased the magic Sea Foam. I had to guess a little about how much gas was in the tank since I did not have that custom Farmall Cub measure stick yet. They used one of those on the little plane that I flew in while living in Central America. All the gauges were broken in the cockpit, but the old stick method on the wing worked well. So has it got to work on a Farmall Cub even better. We also changed the oil on Patty and added Sea Foam to the crank case, amid having a picnic with my brother and his kids. I already purchased a few things this week end from TM Tractor Parts, and need to purchase a bunch more.

How should I go about getting the new clutch...do I find a package that includes everything? I would like to be safe rather than sorry, since I know that the clutch as never been replaced. What other parts or seals do I need for this type of job? We are planning on going to New York. I think I can borrow a trailer from some in the family that would work out well to take Patty that far. My wife can take Cecil some homemade goodies as a piece offering for invading his place with a smoky, old tractor. Thanks so much!

P.S. We had a lot of fun with Patty after the oil change and putting the Sea Foam in her gas tank. The children got in the black lawn/garden wagon and we took them for rides around the place. Figured it would help get the sludge out of the engine. Oh, when we opened the drain pipe from the oil filter, a thick, black grease type of goop came out for a little bit. Yikes...

[Bigdog]

Timex - that glop of sludge is pretty normal for cubs that have not had an oil change in a long time. Fortunately, the stuff in that drain pipe has not been circulating in the engine. It has been settling out in that pipe for a long time.

[scotlem]

Bob I do not have a compression gauge but I know where to get one.

I have one in the truck and it will probably still be there in October

[Timex]

How should I go about getting the new clutch...do I find a package that includes everything? I would like to be safe rather than sorry, since I know that the clutch as never been replaced. What other parts or seals do I need for this type of job? Also, can I use a metal type bearing instead of the graphite one for the clutch? Thanks again!

[Bigdog]

Timex - aftermarket clutches and throw-out bearings have received mixed reviews. You might consider replacing your clutch disc and pressure plate with good used ones from Ralph. The throw-out bearing is a toss-up as well. Some have good luck with them but if you go that route do as Clark Thompson does and remove the shields and pack the bearing with grease first. I prefer the graphite as I have had good luck with them. Pre lube it by filling the cavity with a grease gun until grease comes out the weep hole and also rub some grease on the exposed surfaces before you install it.

[bob in CT]

TM Tractor has new, made in USA, pressure plates if you need one. The pressure plate problems that were reported seem to have come from the ones made in India.

If your graphite bearing has lasted since 1949, that seems to be pretty good service life. If the fingers are adjusted properly, a new one should give excellent service life. My personal recommendation is you buy allo three parts new from TM and return what you don't need. Or sell a good used pressure plate to someone later if you end up with one. That is a job that can be banged out in a Cub Fest ( I volunteer to help) but not one that you would want to repeat a year later on your own.

[Timex]

Thanks for the help Bigdog and Bob in CT. I really appreciate it, you guys are really special, but you don't need me to tell you that. The problem I was having had to do with the current condition of the clutch assembly. I really don't know enough about all this to make a judgment. At the same time, I hated to buy a lot of expensive parts that might not be needed and get stuck with them. Yet, without knowing much about all this, I believe the clutch is likely the original one. The tractor was never used much at all over the years. It mostly went bad from sitting, and not from excessive use. I talked with the gentleman at TM about it, and he said maybe I could adjust the fingers through the hole in the bottom of the tractor. Unfortunately, I am so ignorant to correct workings of a clutch in a 1949 Cub that I will likely make things worse rather than better. If TM will be so kind as to allow me to return the parts, I will gladly purchase them. Hopefully a simple adjustment would fix the problem, but I kind of doubt it. In any case that bearing has got to be bad due to age and poor maintenance. It would be nice to redo it right and replace the whole assembly at one time while it is all open anyway.
Bob, do you think that we could split the tractor and get it back together that fast if it needed to be done? How much stuff would we need to support the engine and rear drive train? Have no fears, I will need to help with several clutch replacement jobs before I try it a year later on my own.

Patty's Clutch

[bob in CT]

We need to give a shout-out to Cecil to see what he has scheduled for his shop in October. He has a gantry crane and everything needed to split a tractor and with all the experienced help there it could be banged out in a day. It may just need an adjustment, but someone can look at that first before pulling the hood. Make sure you have as little gas as possible in the tank so it is easy to manage.

[Winfield Dave]

Bob, do you think that we could split the tractor and get it back together that fast if it needed to be done? How much stuff would we need to support the engine and rear drive train? Have no fears, I will need to help with several clutch replacement jobs before I try it a year later on my own.

Timex...look at my post of when my daughter [15] and I split "Hercules" to do clutch work...and I don't claim to be a mechanic.
Be sure to view the pics on page 2.

I talked with the gentleman at TM about it, and he said maybe I could adjust the fingers through the hole in the bottom of the tractor. Unfortunately, I am so ignorant to correct workings of a clutch in a 1949 Cub that I will likely make things worse rather than better. If TM will be so kind as to allow me to return the parts, I will gladly purchase them. Hopefully a simple adjustment would fix the problem, but I kind of doubt it. In any case that bearing has got to be bad due to age and poor maintenance. It would be nice to redo it right and replace the whole assembly at one time while it is all open anyway.

Timex, where in Berks County are you? I could come down and take a look at the clutch with you and try to see what is up...Email me...click the little envelope under my photo on the right.

[Timex]

Dave, thanks for taking the time to contact me. I am looking forward to meeting you. Hopefully these pictures will help some of you. They don't mean a whole lot to me, since I don't know what normal is. Maybe they are not clear enough, it seems that the server limits their size some. Plus, they cost me dearly to take them inside the tractor. Here is the heart of Patty....
u

First Picture Of Patty's Clutch

Second Picture Of Patty's Clutch

[Timex]

And more pictures. I am no Doctor, but this does not look....

Third Picture Of Patty's Clutch

Fourth Picture Of Patty's Clutch

[Harold R]

Timex,
Looks like the graphite is worn nearly flush with the casing on the throw-out bearing,and possibly some wear on the pressure plate fingers. I'd say replace the TOB, pressure plate, clutch disc.....and pilot bushing. You'll have some very good help there at Cecils. Do it all now, and chances are you won't be worrying with it for another fifty years.

[Winfield Dave]

Hey guys...how come I can't see the finger adjustment bolt(s)?
Is this a different style clutch?

[Harold R]

It has a Auburn pressure plate. If I remember, the adjustment is under the hinge point, above a spring clip.