Need Help With Mid 1949 F-Series Farmall Cub

[Barnyard]

If the oil filter cover is tightened too far it will warp and start leaking. It sounds like that is what happened. Especially since you say you tightened it more to try to stop it.

[Timex]

Yikes....I'll go take a look at it.

[bob in CT]

Before you panic, the bolt has a gasket, either a soft copper washer or fiber washer and this seals the bolt head.

There were 2 different styles of tops. Early ones were cast and they would distort and leak around the large gasket between the top and the block. Not the problem you described. The cast part was replaced with a stamped steel part that eliminated this problem. That said, I have had to re-do this larger gasket on more than one occasion after an oil change. Some replacement rubber gaskets squirt out. There is a bit of finesse in tightening the cap just enough, but not too much. I will re-use my old gasket more often than not if it is a "proven" sealer.

[scotlem]

If its coming out from around the copper washer try replacing the washer from your local auto parts store or anneal the one you have. To do this you take a torch (propane torch works fine) and heat the washer till its cherry red on a flat surface, Do not heat it to long and go to orange or yellow because it will likely distort or turn into a puddle. Let it air cool and reuse. This was common practice for reusing all copper seals in the Navy. Scot

[Buzzard Wing]

I saw that one time and if I recall, I took the top off cleaned the gasket and other surfaces and carefully put it back together. Problem was solved. There should have been a new gasket with the filter.

The last Cub had a real old filter and the gasket was carboard, so I had to scrape it off the cap and machined surface on the block.



If that doesn't do it, let me know. I have a spare cap and bolt that I will throw in the box o' stuff to bring to Cecil's.

[Timex]

Okay, it looks like you are all right. I did use a new seal, but over possibly over tightened. However, the first time I did not tighten it a real tight. There is a cooper washer that looks like it has become almost a part of the bolt. It seems the oil is coming out there, because it fills the dish part of the lid. I think it is the new stamped steel type of cap/lid. So I am going to try a new copper washer and see how things go from there. This site and more specifically you, all never cease to amaze me. Thanks so much! If you are not weary of my questions yet, then take a stab at the questions below...

Hydralics

There appears to be silicon and some type of washer in the middle hole, yet when I look at the parts manual, there does not even appear to be another hole besides the big one. What's up?
Edit: I just found it on TM Tractors website, it is an expansion plug, but why the hole and silicon?

Cap

It looks like a cap of some type is missing here as well. In the parts manual it shows two different size\shape caps for the two rears. However, it appears in the diagram as one piece as best I can tell. Any ideas?

[Timex]

Thought you might like these pictures, this has got to almost win an award for being the most far out destruction of another-wise original front light.

Light With Construction Adhesive Inside

The front lights are full of construction adhesive. We saw from the outside that the sealed beam, 12v lights were siliconed in, what we did not know was how they created a backing for them. The lights did not work, and are not easily serviced now!

Light Still Together

Here it is before we took it appart. When we redo the wiring, actually there is very little of it left on the tractor, I will need to be able to put 6-volt fictures in here. It looks like new lights are in order. This stuff does not even cut with a utility knife and is in all the nooks and crannies of the fixture. Once we got the hood off, it became apparent that most of the wires that were left on the tracter were cut and did not go anywhere. So we removed them this evening. Only two are three main wires still connect to the front panel. The new wiring harness should make all the difference.

[Timex]

Old Sediment Bowl

The Manual appears to show the old style that I have. It was all siliconed together as well do to damage that causes leaks.

New Sediment Bowl

I am thinking about replacing it with this part, are they the same otherwise, since the new part says it is OEM.

Thanks again,
Timex

[bob in CT]

Okay, it looks like you are all right. I did use a new seal, but over possibly over tightened. However, the first time I did not tighten it a real tight. There is a cooper washer that looks like it has become almost a part of the bolt. It seems the oil is coming out there, because it fills the dish part of the lid. I think it is the new stamped steel type of cap/lid. So I am going to try a new copper washer and see how things go from there. This site and more specifically you, all never cease to amaze me. Thanks so much! If you are not weary of my questions yet, then take a stab at the questions below...

Hydralics_Top.jpg

There appears to be silicon and some type of washer in the middle hole, yet when I look at the parts manual, there does not even appear to be another hole besides the big one. What's up?
Edit: I just found it on TM Tractors website, it is an expansion plug, but why the hole and silicon?

That is in the mind of the PO that did it. Replace the expansion pug if it is leaking or save it for a future project.

Axle_Cap.jpg

It looks like a cap of some type is missing here as well. In the parts manual it shows two different size\shape caps for the two rears. However, it appears in the diagram as one piece as best I can tell. Any ideas?

There is nothing missing. You are looking at the drive for a planter sprocket. There is a seal and O-ring arrangement to keep the lube in.

[Rudi]

Timex:

Fuel Sediment Bowl .. yours is the same as the one I had -- nice old t-style shut-off -- on a fuel sediment bowl that is no longer serviceable. I simply took my whole sediment bowl apart, cleaned it all up really well and reused it after I put in a new gasket and filter screen. Clean all the surfaces really well. After re-assembly I found that the shut-off leaked. I could have replaced the packing if I knew how.. but I didn't. I did save the old T-style shut-off though. For me the L-style shut-off is simply too painful to use.. I have peripheral neuropathy which causes problems so I changed it out to a Ball valve. Since that time I have upgraded my fuel system .. you may wish to if this is a working Cub .. How To Upgrade A Cub Fuel System

Oh, depending on what is boogered on your sediment bowl, it may be cheaper to buy the whole assembly. If the assembly is still good and the threads are not boogered then possibly the gasket and screen may be the only new parts you need.

I would think from the pics that the PO simply had a lot of silicone hanging around and used that instead of fixing things properly. The bowl does not appear cracked, the cap looks good as do the threads to the gas tank. It appears it simply needs a good cleaning and the gasket/screen and a new shut-off valve.

[Jim Becker]

I simply took my whole sediment bowl apart, cleaned it all up really well and reused it after I put in a new gasket and filter screen. Clean all the surfaces really well. After re-assembly I found that the shut-off leaked. I could have replaced the packing if I knew how.. but I didn't.

For me the L-style shut-off is simply too painful to use.

The original shut-offs had a back seating valve, there was no packing. When you opened them, you had to open them all the way or they would leak.

Here is a thread from about a year ago that shows some fuel line modificatons and two variations on a simple tool that can be used to make it easier to turn the original style valves. I find the tool particularly helpful on the loader tractor that has hydraulic lines in the way.
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=45766

[Timex]

Thanks for all the great answers. Sorry I did not respond sooner, was buried in work and did not have time to think about the tractor stuff. The glass bowel has a chip out of it and I think it leaks other wise (the sediment bowel) so I may get an aftermarket one. I kind of like the spinner design too, but see the original now has the handle type thing instead. The lights are filled with that yellow construction adhesive instead of silicone. It is hopless to get it out, that stuff is so hard. As for the plug on the hydralic unit, I will find a new one to replace the one with a hole and silicone in it. The gas shut-off in the other post is pretty neat. As for the planter drive, I had no idea what that was for, even when we had the tractor years ago. Now I know, thanks again for the great posts!

[Timex]

Okay, I am making progress on a lot of the small issues mentioned in this post. However, it seems I still have one problem that I cannot get solved without your help. I am looking for a newly rebuilt generator with the pulley. The hard part it seems is finding the pulley. Nobody seems to have them. Any ideas where I could find one? I will gladly buy the whole thing together. It is for a 49 Cub with 6 volt system. A few places online sell the generator. Other places for Cub parts used or new say that they send the core in with the pulley, so they don't even have used ones. There has got to be one out there somewhere. Ralph sent me the mounting hardware. So I have all that now. The only thing remaining is the generator and pulley. Any ideas?

Oh, just thought of another question. Where would you recommend getting the generator from? The generator could come from different vendors.

[Rudi]

Pretty sure the shut-off's were not original to the Cub, just original as in it was on Ellie when I got her. Either way doesn't really matter. Some may be able to be repacked, some simply need to be replaced. I chose to go the replacement route and am very glad with the choice.

Timex:

This is something I learned the hard way. We have a couple local generator/alternator rebuild shops. BTDT and not happy - most seem to thing well that's good enough. For me that doesn't cut it especially at the prices they wanted. So, I did my research (a number of years ago) and I found that we have an actual AC/Delco Service Center here. They rebuild AC/Delco units back to factory specs and have ALL the parts needed including the pulleys. I would suggest that you look for an Authorized AC/Delco Service Center to get your Genny and Pulley redone/replaced. Oh they also will do the Cut-Out/VR.

If you do not want to rebuild yours... your local AC/Delco Service Center may actually have a rebuilt on the shelf. Mine did which surprised the bejeepers out of me

[Timex]

Thanks Rudi for the reply. I will look into that. The PO removed everything, so when I purchased the tractor it did not have the generator or other mounting hardware. I have been able to purchase everything but the generator and pulley. It seems that the generators sell here and there, but don't come with the pulley. Even if I purchase a used one to rebuild, it still will not have the pulley to go with it. Do you think the a pulley of an alternator might work? I will try your suggestion and see if I can locate an AcDelco service center. Thanks again!