Farmall Cub

While disassembling my cub for an engine overhaul, I found two welds on the block, but not on the ears. It ran for 4 years and I never saw any leaks from these points, so I'm guessing that the welds were done right.

This is only going to be a working tractor, so appearance is not an issue. Will I be wasting resources trying to bore this block for .020 over pistons?

Here are a few pictures.

http://core.federated.com/~dennis/Pictures/2004/Cub/pages/IMG_2024_JPG.htm

http://core.federated.com/~dennis/Pictures/2004/Cub/pages/IMG_2023_JPG.htm

http://core.federated.com/~dennis/Pictures/2004/Cub/pages/IMG_2014_JPG.htm

Thanks.

Personaaly I would think that if it hasn't been leaking it would be ok, but there are some on here that have much more experience than i on that type of repair. Another thing to think about is the new old stock blocks that NOSIH has in the for sale adds. They consiste of a new block, pistons and rings. Reuse the rest of the parts form your old engine (suggest new valves). I redid an engine about 1 1/2 years ago, and decided to buy one of his blocks and store for use in my 48 when I redo it in a couple years rather than reboring.

If you have not had any problems up to this point, it will probably be okay, but you never know until once everything is back togeter..

If you're trying to keep your monetary investment to a minimum for a working tractor .020" over is likely not going to be a problem. You might do like the other suggest and weigh the cost of a re-bore against the cost of a new block at a super price. I think nosih has done this board right by offering those blocks at the price he quoted. It sure has to make you think about doing anything with a marginal block.

Dennis,

If you decide to rebore cylinders, have the machine shop magnaflux the block first, and that should tell you if the welds are good and whether there are any other cracks.

Just thinking out loud - if someone gets a NOS block, which serial number would you use?

Is that welded or Brazed? The color in the picture looks more yellow like brazing. What you have should do Ok but boring oversized rings, pistons, wrist pins and maybe connecting rods make it a high cost deal. The new block with pistons and rods might be less expensive. You don't indicate where you are located so the shipping on the new block might be a queston to think of too.
Also, look, the guy with the Blocks thinks you will be ok if you have not had any trouble yet.
It is a toss up, If the cost of the new is about the same or cheaper go for it. If the boring is a lot less expensive go for that and take the chance.

Bill

I have one other thought. What year is you Cub. There were horse power changes through the years. No sense replacing a hemi block with a flat head piston block and loose horse power in you don't have to. The magifluz is right on.
Bill

If the other images in the photo file are all of the same Cub, it's a 1949 - not a hemi.

It is a '49 as far as I can tell, even though the PO thought is was a 53. All the castings have an 'S' for the year and the serial number matches the range for '49s.

I've decided that I cannot pass up a deal that Noish has. And his place is and easy afternoon drive from my place. I figure that just the cost of new pistons and boring would be more that the NOS block deal itself. Plus, even if the old block was bored, I'd still have a welded (in TWO places) block. The NOS block just makes sense.

Now I'll have to think of somthing to do with the patched block. Maybe the wife can plant some flowers in it or I can always use an extra anchor for the boat.

Y'all have been a tremendous help.

You could do a overhall and use it as a power plant for crushing bear cans "Jack"

That's funny because just this afternoon, my kid was helping me crush a bag full of cans and I was commenting on how we could mechanize the process with a motor and some kind of ram on a cam and a feed chute.

Maybe we can come up with something that attaches to the PTO.

And I'm picking up the NOS block tomorrow afternoon.