Sat Nov 27, 2004 9:29 am
Does anyone know what the thread and length of the axle hanger bolt spacer machine bolts are? The bolts are used to hold the spacers in place and thread behind the rear of the square casting the holds the axle hanger assembly in place.
Sat Nov 27, 2004 10:43 am
I'm not sure, but I think they are the same as the implement bolts for the final drives.
Sat Nov 27, 2004 10:43 am
Hello ScottyG. My cubs all have 5/8-11NC bolts that are 1and1/2 inches long( that's thread length.)
Sat Nov 27, 2004 11:22 am
5/8x11 x1 1/2" long.
Be sure to buy grade 5 bolts as these tend to set up in the cast iron also use some anti-seiz.
Sat Nov 27, 2004 12:36 pm
Yep! 5/8 x 11.
A tip... these bolts tend to mushroom on the ends and become impossible to remove without spoiling the threads in the casting.
When this happens, they can best be removed by sawing the end off the bolt from the inside using a Saw-Zall.
To prevent this it's a good idea to reduce the O.D. on the end of the new bolt so that when it eventually mushrooms, it will still be smaller than the thread.
Sat Nov 27, 2004 1:19 pm
George Willer wrote:To prevent this it's a good idea to reduce the O.D. on the end of the new bolt so that when it eventually mushrooms, it will still be smaller than the thread.
Another way to prevent it is to use a setscrew rather than a bolt. For some reason, IH supplied bolts for most Cub implements. The sicklebar mowers are the only implements I know of where they supplied a setscrew.
Sat Nov 27, 2004 3:52 pm
Great tips everyone. Thanks. My 54A is almost there. The weather in NY has been kind so far. Perhaps the man upstairs is waiting for my finish coat to dry? Obviously a Cub fan.
Sat Nov 27, 2004 3:56 pm
Sun Nov 28, 2004 9:00 am
Sure Donny. I know I promised you and will do so once everything comes together. Right now, the axle hanger assembly is complete as is the axle hanger itself. I also ran into another problem with the grader where the shoe mounting bolts broke off. We've burned them all off and will install new hardware.
Working on the braces at the moment which is an excerise in trial and error running back and forth from my house to the shop to make sure the bends are correct. Not as easy as I thought. Will keep you posted.
Sun Nov 28, 2004 11:14 am
When making you braces be sure you have plenty of clearnace in front of your wheels. When you are pushing or hit something the blade flexes more towards the wheels than you expect.
Mon Nov 29, 2004 9:41 am
Am I to assume then that the axle hanger assembly should be mounted perpendicular to the ground? I ask this because on one of the TM Tractor pics, it appears that the hanger is tilted slightly toward the rear of the tractor. I had always assumed that this was due to the fact that the owner used shorter braces than was required.
Mon Nov 29, 2004 9:51 am
Mr Willer is right, they will mushroom. That's what happened to the left one on my cub. It has a square head with jamb nut on it, other side has regular tapered bolt. Don't remember why. I remember twisting off one of them on the first cub (195897) when I was still a kid. Axle brace is vertical on original design but tilted back on 54-A blade
Last edited by danovercash on Mon Nov 29, 2004 10:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Mon Nov 29, 2004 10:06 am
The hangar is perpendicular on mine, however all the braces on mine are also home made, so it may not be accurate. Attach the blade on the hangar and support it with some blocks so it is even with the widest part of the front tires. Make sure you have 3 or 4 inches of clearance between the closest part of the blade and the front tire. Check it raised and lowered. Try it angled both ways, the hardware is not always symetrical. The space may be a little more than absolutely necessary, but the blade flexes more under load than you would expect. I learned this on my first try. It appeared to have sufficient clearance, but when pushing heavy wet snow it flexed enough to rub the wheel.
Mon Nov 29, 2004 11:31 am
Thanks for your help everyone. Will keep you posted on my progress.
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