You read my post of months ago, I just know it! I use a 12" piece of 1/2" all-tread and put a nut on both sides of the wheel center and then I use
a fulcrum to lift the weight up with my right foot while tilting the weight out at the top just enough to put it onto the 1/2" stud. The I put the two horizontal wheel weight bolts in first and just start the nuts enough to hold and then remove the all-thread rod. There is just enough wiggle room to get the inside nut off and it will fall out from behind the weight. Next put the top and bottom weight bolts in and tighten all.
Wed Dec 01, 2004 7:00 pm
Russ, if you turn the wheel so the log bolt is at the very top the final drive will keep it from sliding out more than a couple inches, and you can foget the inner nut. Back when I was young, strong, and foolish, I used to put a long bolt in and turn it to the top so the bolt couldn't slide out. Then I just picked the weight up and slid it over the bolt and ran a nut on to hold it while I put the others in. Now that I've gotten older I'm paying the price for doing things like that.
Thu Dec 02, 2004 7:49 am
I suspect Mr. GW has "been there, done that", on many things us newbies are discovering for ourselves. .
Thu Dec 02, 2004 4:35 pm
Jeff M worte:
Not to pop your balloon, Donny, but that's the method "Mr GW" related to me sometime last year.
That doesn't pop my bubble it just makes my head a little bigger
I always thought Mr. GW used a floor jack
Yes I need a new front end for the Head Less Thompson Gunner Some one made it very narrow with a torch
I swear I never read your post I didn't use any all-thread. All-thread is only used to hang uni-strut...isn't it