During August, the third season in downeast Maine (mud and winter are the other two ) I do some sailing. Which means I work on my boat in the winter as well as the Cub. There is a Cape Dory (my brand of boat) bulletin board that is pretty helpful. Recently there was a pretty spirited discussion about dielectric grease, which reminded me of the discussion here not too long ago. Anyway, these guys were concerned about its properties relative to a lightning grounding plate and barnacles (not real issues on a Cub)! I thought you might find it funny. I guess there is no escaping the stuff. Here's a link:
http://www.capedory.org/bboard/messages/77909.html
Vern
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Dielectric grease
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- Vern Campbell
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'61 Ford 641
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That anhydrous lanolin (huh?....) sounds like mean stuff. Maybe I'll coat my steering wheel shaft with it. I'm also going to put dielectric grease on the base of my seat--I'm hoping this will keep lightning from grounding out through my derriere. Amazing what you can learn from these boards....
Care and feeding of family's Ford 641 ('61)
Kubota BX 1860
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That certainly covers the subject.. For shade tree mechanic like my self. I grease battery terminals because my grand father did it on his boatss. Work boats in salt water. He said it keeps the terminals clean. Any grease at hand was used except bacon fat and salt pork. He said it had too much salt in it.
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I'm stayin' out of this one!
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If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
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If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
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Donny M wrote:Years ago when I messed with boats we used a product called Oxy-Ban for corrosion problems. That stuff worked great It lasts seemingly forever but is somewhat messy to work with
Donny,
That's the product that is almost a requirement when using aluminum conductors for service entrances to prevent oxidation. I wouldnt consider using aluminum without it. I use it on battery cables as well. I just checked my toolbox and the name is spelled "Oxiban". A little goes a long way.
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http://www.acehardware.com/sm-gb-ox-gard-anti-oxidant-compound--pi-1378721.html
For connecting aluminum to aluminum or aluminum to copper wire
Young man for work, old man for advice
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- 10+ Years
Thanks Mr. GW for the correct spelling. As I said it was years ago so I consider myself lucky just to remember the name
I wouldn't use an aluminum service or wire for that matter if given a choice. Although we use it quite a bit in the RF business as long as it has been treated with Iridite.
Bigdog,
You're too easy
I wouldn't use an aluminum service or wire for that matter if given a choice. Although we use it quite a bit in the RF business as long as it has been treated with Iridite.
Bigdog,
You're too easy
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That was an interesting bit one of the folks wrote up on it.
I was about to give up getting the aluminum wheels off my Ford truck. They were only on about 8 months and were 'welded' to the hubs/drums. Even a sledge hammer did not bust em free. I ended up loosening the 8 lug nuts and going for a short trip.
A friend says that when he would do a tire rotation on a BMW with alum wheels that they would give him dielectric grease for the wheels and steel.
It does work great for that application too..... prevents the old dis-similar metal stuck together problem very well. I swapped the winter tires the other day in about an hour, where last year it took me 3 evenings of effort to do a simple tire swap.
It may make sense to 'lube' unpainted mating surfaces to prevent rust, but there are not too many of those on the cub, or at least on mine now.
You can get it at NAPA but it is not cheap, about $7 a tube.
I was about to give up getting the aluminum wheels off my Ford truck. They were only on about 8 months and were 'welded' to the hubs/drums. Even a sledge hammer did not bust em free. I ended up loosening the 8 lug nuts and going for a short trip.
A friend says that when he would do a tire rotation on a BMW with alum wheels that they would give him dielectric grease for the wheels and steel.
It does work great for that application too..... prevents the old dis-similar metal stuck together problem very well. I swapped the winter tires the other day in about an hour, where last year it took me 3 evenings of effort to do a simple tire swap.
It may make sense to 'lube' unpainted mating surfaces to prevent rust, but there are not too many of those on the cub, or at least on mine now.
You can get it at NAPA but it is not cheap, about $7 a tube.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
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