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front split

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Kirk
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Location: Farmington AR

front split

Postby Kirk » Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:39 pm

In preparing to replace the noisy throw-out bearing, I've done all the preparation work in order to do a front split. Problem is, it wont split.

Not knowing how much I can pound on it with a hammer and screwdriver or how much pressure it will stand from my hoist.....I've simply put a generous amount of PBB on it and letting it sit until tomorrow night.

While I'm waiting though for tomorrow night, do you have any tips for me to make this first time experience a joyful one?

Thanks a bunch :?
Kirk

CUBS:
'49

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beaconlight
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 pm

wiggle it a little. How are you holding each half? Do you have so much strain on it that the dowl pins are binding? if each half is supported but not off the floor, put it in gear and rock it. eventually the tthere will be a small crack in the seam. Put a ripping chisel in an wiggle that. If all else fails use a punch and hit on the dowl pins.

Bill
Bill

"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne

" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
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George Willer
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Postby George Willer » Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:18 pm

Kirk,

As you know, the problem is with the dowel pins... they are intended to fit tightly. Your best plan of attack will be to drive each one out with a sturdy punch and drive them back in on assembly. By drifting them out you eliminate the binding that usually causes the problem.

The one on the left has to go toward the rear and the one on the right goes toward the oil filter. You'll find it easy to do.
George Willer
http://gwill.net

The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce

Kirk
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 602
Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2004 7:17 am
Location: Farmington AR

Postby Kirk » Tue Jan 11, 2005 6:27 am

How can anyone not just love this forum.

Many thanks George and Bill.

Hopefully in a few days I'll be asking for tips on how to put it back together. :wink:
Kirk



CUBS:

'49

Kirk
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 602
Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2004 7:17 am
Location: Farmington AR

Postby Kirk » Tue Jan 11, 2005 6:53 pm

Well, the front split went well. Last night before coming in from my shop to email yall for some tips, I sprayed the seam between the clutch housing and block down with Kroil (orginally I had said PBB). I went back out there today after wor.......llow and behold, it was broke loose. :o

It was simple after that. I just hope it goes back together as easy. :roll:

Kirk
Kirk



CUBS:

'49

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Russ Leggitt
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Zip Code: 38655
Tractors Owned: [18] CUBs from 1947 thru 1974; "B" Farmall, [2] John Deere MTs; Ford 600; Ford 4000; and a 1956 IHC S112 Pickup [CUB Hauler]
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Oxford, Ms

Postby Russ Leggitt » Tue Jan 11, 2005 7:36 pm

Hey Kirk,

Isn't success "W-O-N-D-E-R-F-U-L" :lol: :lol: :lol: A couple of cautions
for either splitting or reassemble; you want both halves to seperate
on a level. In other works you don't want either half to drop down when
seperated this could bend the main long drive shaft to the transmission.
Same thing when putting back together.

I have a small box channel railing in my small shop that I can get the
engine perfectly level when removing or reassembling. This work great
and eliminates the possibility of bending the drive shaft.

The CUB stands that have been shown on the board and which I have
a pair of also work great and are the next best thing to the overhead
rail system.

I hope this has helped a little.

Russ L.

Kirk
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 602
Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2004 7:17 am
Location: Farmington AR

Postby Kirk » Wed Jan 12, 2005 8:45 am

Thanks Russ for the input. Sounds like a great set-up.

I have built a very solid small table on casters.....at (almost) exactly level with the clutch housing tube.....whereas I can roll the rear of the tractor away from the front

To support the front of the tractor, I have reinforced the truss and rafters in to support a my hoist (made up of a come-along, chain and HD webbing.

Though very unsofisticated, 8) it worked pretty well.

Thanks for the advice....I appreciate it.
Kirk



CUBS:

'49


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