Last word on governor endplay adjustments

[Slappy]

Y'all are probably tired of hearing about it by now, but if you'll suffer me one more time I'll relate my last governor repair experience.

If I remember correctly, the Blue Ribbon repair manual recommends 0.020 to 0.025" endplay between the governor drive gear and the casting. The IT manual recommends 0.007 to 0.013 (again, if I remember it right). Endplay on my Cub was 0.063.

I tried to push the gear further down the shaft to make up endplay - it would not budge using more than a little "persuasion". Others on the forum related similar problems, and one person heated the gear and still ruined a 20-ton shop press trying to do the job. My advice is, do not attempt to eliminate endplay by moving the gear, unless you are fortunate enough to have an assembly that can be adjusted with moderate pressure from press or hammer blows.

It was suggested that a thrust washer might be used to make up endplay. Yup, that works - and here's how I did it.

1 - punch out the rollpin that holds the weight carrier to the shaft. It comes out easy, just line up the holes in the casting and use a long punch or round stock of the appropriate diameter to push the pin out the other side.

2 - put the assembly in the vice (or a similar wooden block setup) such that the casting rests on top of the jaws and the gear passes between the jaws), i.e., shaft pointing up.

3 - put a piece of wood on the shaft end and tap shaft out of the casting and weight carrier (again, comes out easy). You now have three separate pieces - the casting, weight carrier, and gear/shaft.

4 - with the gear/shaft and casting assembled, place the appropriate number of 5/8" ID/1" (minimum) OD shims or thrust washers over the shaft. I couldn't find a thrust washer thinner than 0.065, so I used round, brass, 0.005" thick shims from McMaster and Carr (about $5 for 10 shims) . You can get them in other thicknesses and materials if you choose.

5 - tap or press the weight carrier back on the shaft (it will go on easily). Be sure the carrier is facing in the right direction and take care to line up the weight carrier rollpin holes with the hole in the shaft.

6 - tap the rollpin through the carrier and shaft. The pin should go in easily. If not, the holes in the carrier and shaft are not properly aligned. Reposition and try again. Be prepared to reposition a few times, do not try to force the rollpin through the hole. The pin is hardened and will scar up the shaft.

I used all ten shims and reduced the endplay from 0.063 to 0.013 - the high spec limit according to the IT manual but a little less than suggested by the BR repair manual - I thought this was an acceptable compromise.

Result: After the rebuild, governor picks up fast under load with speed change immediate and incremental along the entire sector range.

Thanks again to all of you who brainstormed this problem (and the others I've related) with me, I couldn't have figured it out without your help.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

looks like a good idea to me, think it ought to be copied to the How To foum.

[Dan Robertson]

You said;

6 - tap the rollpin through the carrier and shaft. The pin should go in easily. If not, the holes in the carrier and shaft are not properly aligned. Reposition and try again. Be prepared to reposition a few times, do not try to force the rollpin through the hole. The pin is hardened and will scar up the shaft.

A word of caution; make sure that the roll pin fits tight enough that there is no danger of it coming out when the tractor is in use.
I bought a 48 cub one time that had a malfunctioning governor. I discovered that the roll pin you describe was missing (later found it in two pieces in the bottom of the oil pan), which allowed the governor shaft to spin inside of the weight carrier.

[Buzzard Wing]

I saved the instructions.... JUST IN CASE.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom.