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leaky rear.....
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2005 11:48 am
leaky rear.....
I've brought my father's cub out of the weather and into my garage. The axles are leaking fluid. Has anyone replaced the seals before? How long of a project is it? Also, what is the correct fluid level for the transmition?
- Bigdog
- Team Cub Mentor
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Check some of the links at the announcement at the top of this forum, They contain tips etc. plus system capacities. Most likely, if the cub has been kept outside, there is water in the tranny and finals. Perhaps draining and re-filling to proper levels will alleviate the leaking problem.
By the way, welcome to the forum.
By the way, welcome to the forum.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
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- 10+ Years
The correct fluid level is 3 1/2 pints for the tranny. It's fairly simple to change the seals but I would recommend a parts manual and a service manual. Both can be obtained through http://www.binderbooks.com
- allenlook
- Cub Pro
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Leakin in the rear...
Mine was an example of leaking alleviated by draining all of the water, tranny fluid, motor oil, vaseline, and used hand lotion that had accumulated in the rear and the tranny, power washing and flushing with kerosene, and then refilling to the correct levels with transmission fluid.
My old post was entitled something akin to yours - eg. "Leakin' in the rear"... or something like that.
My old post was entitled something akin to yours - eg. "Leakin' in the rear"... or something like that.
Searchable Cub Parts Database and Manual Galleries at www.farmallcub.info - Computerized Carving at www.bitcarving.com
- ScottyG
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 7:49 pm
- Location: Watkins Glen, NY
Welcome to the forum!!
I copied this quote I used when telling someone how to get to the brakes. Use the same method to access the seals.
The only thing that I would add to this is, to get the seals out, take a screwdriver, punch a hole in them and remove. To install the new ones, take a large socket, one with the same diameter as the new seal and tap gently in place until flush. Nothing more to it than that.
I copied this quote I used when telling someone how to get to the brakes. Use the same method to access the seals.
It's not all that difficult to remove the final drives. You'll need to remove the fenders since there are several dual purpose bolts that hold the final drives in place through the fenders.
The left one is a piece of cake because your drive axle isn't that long. Once you remove the bolts, you may have to wiggle the drive to loosen and then, it should just pull straight out. Careful, they weigh about 70 lbs or so.
The right final drive is a little more tricky because the drive axle is about three times as long so, make sure you have the room to make the pull.
The only thing that I would add to this is, to get the seals out, take a screwdriver, punch a hole in them and remove. To install the new ones, take a large socket, one with the same diameter as the new seal and tap gently in place until flush. Nothing more to it than that.
"Henry" 1948 Farmall Cub
- John *.?-!.* cub owner
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