Brake Pedal Removal Problems

Fri Jan 28, 2005 8:42 pm

I'm having problems getting the brake pedals off their shafts. Tapor pins are removed. Must be rust. Any suggestions?

Fri Jan 28, 2005 9:00 pm

PPH - penetrant, patience, heat.

Fri Jan 28, 2005 9:16 pm

I had to do all of the above that BigDog mentioned plus I had to emery cloth the end of the shaft for a un-noticable swelling that I could not see or feel. Very close tolerances in these old Cub.

Fri Jan 28, 2005 11:22 pm

All of the above certainly helped, but I also had to use a small gear puller to get it off - was able to get the arm "hooks" around the brake shaft "bushing" and pushed off of the shaft.

Sat Jan 29, 2005 7:47 am

Ditto for me on the gear puller,
I thought that first brake pedal would never come off. After a couple 3 days of trying, that first little movement is an beauty sound.

I had to leave the puller on, with pressure applied for at least a day, all the while applying penetrant. I think the heat is really what put it over the top though.

Good luck.

Sat Jan 29, 2005 8:07 am

Thanks for the advise. Great suggestions. Kroil, Heat, and puller coming up.

Sat Jan 29, 2005 12:15 pm

My father had a Weil Mclain steam gas fired furnace. It started to leak. He and i replaced it. We found that the clowns that installed it for the gas company had used a piece of tin over the para coil hole. Otherwise it was good. I took it up the country and recently spent a week soaking with spray Sea Foam, heat, tapping with a hammer, more sea Foam, more hammer, more Sea Foam, more heat before I got the 8 bolts out. They were 3/8 16. I will next reassemble it, convert to bottle gas and have back up to my wood furnace when out of town.
Patience, penetrating oil, heat, all of the above for day on end and you will win with out breaking something. Play Huggy Bear and buy a new one.

Bill
Last edited by beaconlight on Mon Jan 31, 2005 3:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Mon Jan 31, 2005 2:23 pm

Wow, I was just about to ask the same question! I will continue to feed it PB Blaster and see how I make out.

.

Mon Jan 31, 2005 3:41 pm

When i worked for my uncle as a plumber we would never try to unscrew steam pipes. We would take 2 hammers. Hold one against an elbow and strike it with the other and crack the elbow. It was quicker and cheaper to replace the el. Hot water lines we would unscrew.
Doing it commercially time is money and somebody else is paying. When i crack the fitting a replacement is cheaper for the customer. When i am salvaging a $1800 furnace why bust one of the major castings? Doing it off the time clock money is money and every penney counts for us old retired folks.
Doing it on a cub you have to remember "they ain't making any more" Therefore easy, easy ,easy.

Bill

Mon Jan 31, 2005 7:05 pm

I believe in easy.... the other owner just stopped by and said the left brake shaft cannot simply go through cast iron, there must be a bearing, bushing or something. Nearest I can tell there is not, does not show in the parts book, it ain't there (right??).

Fixing to bust out the gear puller now.

Should I find this magical Kroil?? Or is PB blaster close enough?

Mon Jan 31, 2005 7:13 pm

You might want to take a file or some emery cloth and dress down the end of the shaft. It may be mushroomed slightly and not readily visible.

Mon Jan 31, 2005 9:28 pm

Nice... got the right shaft out with the gear puller.
Now if I can just figure out how to get the 'easy' side off.
Thanks again, you guys are awesome!