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SundaySailor
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Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1950 Cub
2000 Simplicity Landlord DLX
1988 JD 322 Garden Tractor with hydraulic scoop, 54" scrape blade and 48" mower deck, Haban 3 pt hitch sickle bar mower

2014 LS XR3032H w/ FEL and BH
Circle of Safety: Y

Suggestions...

Postby SundaySailor » Mon Jan 31, 2005 11:41 am

Howdy folks. Once again I'm thinking about the slack I have in my steering on my 1950 cub. I've tried tightening up the castle nut, and it helped some, but no where near enough. I've tightened up the front end, but again not enough. My gut feeling is that I have a fair amount of wear in the steering box (holster). I've recently replaced the radiator, and for that reason, I don't want to do the full tear down as suggested in the repair manual. In looking at the tractor, it looks to me that if I drop the front axles, and remove the four bolts and castle nut, that I should be able to get to the mechanical parts and see what the problem is there. So, how would I go about suspending the tractor for this work? I have a woods 42" belly mounted mower, so this helps pose a problem too. I have a work shed with good 2 X 6" overhead, a come along rated for 2 tons, a 3 1/2 ton floor jack and some automotive stands rated at 3 tons. Would it be possible to jack the tractor front up, and put a board under the oil pan and then on top of the jacks for stability? Or, how about a web sling using the come along and bracing underneath for stability?
Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,

Rick
Though trillions and trillions of eyes have been watching the skies for as long as human memory exists, no gods nor angels have been seen or documented outside of religion. The number of spaceships being sighted however has become much more prevalent.

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Mon Jan 31, 2005 12:59 pm

Rick, I would consider removing the belly mower which will allow you to use cribbing beneath the oil pan to support the tractor. Use your sling and come-along to lift the tractor but do not rely on them for support. Stacked cribbing is the most stable support you can use. It won't take a lot. Jack stands, while great for back-up, are not the most stable support you can use. Neither is a 2 X 6 overhead joist. Make sure the rear wheels are chocked well to prevent rolling.
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Postby George Willer » Mon Jan 31, 2005 1:00 pm

Rick,

I think your setup could be used like I did this with my shop crane. You might not even have to remove the mower, or do it more easily after the front wheels are off the floor. I would use a prop under the 2 x 6 and safety blocking under the tractor. I brought the front up to a comfortable working height. All the front stuff was added while it was hanging... including the axle I got from John *.?-!.* cub owner's crispy Cub.

The lifting point is a head bolt.

When you have the steering box apart, let's talk.


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Jim Hudson
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Postby Jim Hudson » Mon Jan 31, 2005 10:16 pm

Rick get as long a piece of 4X4 or landscaping timber you can get up above your 2X6's and run at 90% to them so lots of 2X6's are carrying the weight. Only you can see how much weight that will hold. Just don't get under anything till You have it supported from the ground up.
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suggestions-

Postby rvharris3 » Tue Feb 01, 2005 12:38 am

I just finished removing the whole steering mechanism, turned the big
steering gear 180 degrees, although it was not worn much. The worm gear
part of the steering moves up and down contributing to play. As to supporting the tractor, I also have a woods mower so I made two supports out of angle iron and bolted them on the sides of the tractor and the angle cleared the mower so the weight was supported. For safety I also placed a solid block and plywood under the oil pan and left 1/2" clearance just in case! The two bolts holding the angle iron supports are 1/2 " so I felt confident. The service manual shows supports bolted in the same spot. The lower housing of the steering is not easy to get on and off because there is a large pin and 5 bolts. With new pitman arm(old one was welded) and tie rods, the steering is much improved now.

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Postby Kirk » Tue Feb 01, 2005 7:48 am

I recently did a front split to replace a throw-out bearing. In doing so, and the lack of having a shop crane or cherry-picker, I simply built up the bracing (rafters) overhead and then supported the rafter with 4 x 4's running vertically from the floor to the rafter.

Then I ran a massive bolt-eye in the center overhead to hook a 3-ton comealong to and ran my webbing under the oil pan.

It worked really well as it hung there for days. But like I said, I'd rather have a shop crane. :roll:
Kirk

CUBS:
'49

SundaySailor
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Joined: Mon Jun 28, 2004 1:45 pm
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Tractors Owned: 1950 Cub
2000 Simplicity Landlord DLX
1988 JD 322 Garden Tractor with hydraulic scoop, 54" scrape blade and 48" mower deck, Haban 3 pt hitch sickle bar mower

2014 LS XR3032H w/ FEL and BH
Circle of Safety: Y

Ok, for some of this....

Postby SundaySailor » Tue Feb 01, 2005 8:07 am

George, in one of your photos, I see the crane attached to the engine which you say is by a head bolt. Long ago, we used to lift auto engines via chain and had it bolted by two intake manifold bolts. Now then, I have a metal loop for the sparkplugs bolted into the head of my Cub engine. Would it be possible for me to somehow hook the come along in it for lifting? Of course I would have something underneath the tractor engine for support too. I do have two 2" X 6" X 10' overhead boards for the come along to hang from. I will be bracing both of them for the load bearing of the tractor while I'm working on it. I know it would be better to take the woods mower off, but I am working on gravel, and am also working by myself. Therefore, I want to be as safe as possible under the conditions. I kinda like my body parts attached and in the proper place. :) Hope you know what I mean.

Thanks so much for the suggestions. I want to think this thing out as well as possible. BTW, is there enough room underneath for a chain in case the sparkplug loom isn't strong enough?

Rick
Though trillions and trillions of eyes have been watching the skies for as long as human memory exists, no gods nor angels have been seen or documented outside of religion. The number of spaceships being sighted however has become much more prevalent.

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Tue Feb 01, 2005 8:53 am

RV, you can remve the play in the upper steering shaft by going to the local farm hardware store and getting some machinery bushings to up on the shaft. Even just a little up and down play on the upper shaft results in a lot of movement in the front wheels.
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Re: Ok, for some of this....

Postby George Willer » Tue Feb 01, 2005 5:25 pm

SundaySailor wrote:George, in one of your photos, I see the crane attached to the engine which you say is by a head bolt. Long ago, we used to lift auto engines via chain and had it bolted by two intake manifold bolts. Now then, I have a metal loop for the sparkplugs bolted into the head of my Cub engine. Would it be possible for me to somehow hook the come along in it for lifting? Of course I would have something underneath the tractor engine for support too. I do have two 2" X 6" X 10' overhead boards for the come along to hang from. I will be bracing both of them for the load bearing of the tractor while I'm working on it. I know it would be better to take the woods mower off, but I am working on gravel, and am also working by myself. Therefore, I want to be as safe as possible under the conditions. I kinda like my body parts attached and in the proper place. :) Hope you know what I mean.

Thanks so much for the suggestions. I want to think this thing out as well as possible. BTW, is there enough room underneath for a chain in case the sparkplug loom isn't strong enough?

Rick


Rick,

The time you spend making sure you are safe is probably the most productive time you can spend!!!

I wouldn't trust that light sheet metal bracket. I use a short piece of 1 1/2 or 2" x 3/16" angle with two holes drilled in it and bolted under the center head bolt. I think there's less chance for anything to slip that way, so I prefer it to a chain wrapped under the engine.
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Postby Jim Becker » Tue Feb 01, 2005 10:46 pm

Agree with George, the plug wire loop isn't adequate.

On using the engine pan for support, They seem to hold up OK with a strap and probably with a chain. I would not use hard blocking under the pan as the pan will be damaged. Bottom support under the bell housing is a better choice.

A hoist overhead is the easiest and most secure way to do the actual lifting. But I have yet to see a come-along that was rated for overhead lifting. I think the weakest aspect is the limited control over lowering things.

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Postby Kirk » Wed Feb 02, 2005 6:40 am

George,

Would it be possible for you to get a close-up pic on the angle iron bracket that's attached by the head bolt that you're using to lift the tractor? From your pics, it certainly looks adequate. I'd like to use that same mechanism some day.

Thanks
Kirk



CUBS:

'49

SundaySailor
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1041
Joined: Mon Jun 28, 2004 1:45 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1950 Cub
2000 Simplicity Landlord DLX
1988 JD 322 Garden Tractor with hydraulic scoop, 54" scrape blade and 48" mower deck, Haban 3 pt hitch sickle bar mower

2014 LS XR3032H w/ FEL and BH
Circle of Safety: Y

Another consideration...

Postby SundaySailor » Thu Feb 03, 2005 8:33 am

I looked briefly at my tractor last night, and it appears that I could possibly use the implement bolts near the bell housing to attach a chain to. Then, I could use the come along to hoist the front end of the tractor to the 2 overhead 2 x 6 x 10's (which I will brace even further). After that, I'm thinking about placing a 4x4x8ft board under the bell housing and let that sit on the two jack stands. Between the hoist and the 4x4, that should give me enough stability and safety factor to pull the front end off with confidence, right? Please let me know your thoughts on this. Safety is my primary concern here.

Thanks in advance,

Rick
Though trillions and trillions of eyes have been watching the skies for as long as human memory exists, no gods nor angels have been seen or documented outside of religion. The number of spaceships being sighted however has become much more prevalent.

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Postby beaconlight » Thu Feb 03, 2005 9:20 am

You have 2 sets of implement mounting screws use 1 to lift and the other to brace it up. Drill holes in angle iron or 2x6 and bolt on. If you use wood place large washers under the bolt heads.
Just about all come alongs say not for over head lifting. I feel that is an attempt at stopping law suits and I use them that way. I won't work under them unsuported though. The problem with a come along is that you have to use certain stops where ever the rachet leaves you. A chain hoist can lift to any height. Brace the overhead sufficiently to hold the strain as you lift.

Bill
Bill

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SundaySailor
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1041
Joined: Mon Jun 28, 2004 1:45 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1950 Cub
2000 Simplicity Landlord DLX
1988 JD 322 Garden Tractor with hydraulic scoop, 54" scrape blade and 48" mower deck, Haban 3 pt hitch sickle bar mower

2014 LS XR3032H w/ FEL and BH
Circle of Safety: Y

Ok, so here's a little more....

Postby SundaySailor » Mon Feb 07, 2005 7:34 am

Went back to TSC this weekend and had hopes of getting chains and stuff for the project. In talking with the gent who was going to cut the chains, he told me to return the come along (I bought it there), and get a chain hoist. He said it would be much safer and actually less expensive than the direction I was thinking about. I'll still have to buy a chain with hooks to lift the tractor, and one for the 2x6x10's. Once she is lifted, I can brace her underneath and let her down on the other bracing, while still maintaining some tension from the chain hoist. Now, does this sound like a better idea? :? Trying my best to think this thing through and not allow Mr. Murphy in my ball park.

Thanks Gents,

Rick
Though trillions and trillions of eyes have been watching the skies for as long as human memory exists, no gods nor angels have been seen or documented outside of religion. The number of spaceships being sighted however has become much more prevalent.

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allenlook
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Sounds good so far...

Postby allenlook » Mon Feb 07, 2005 11:55 am

Sounds good so far. I would only add that I did not trust my oil pan for support as it was rounded and coated with a little oil, and thinner than I cared for considering the amount of weight I would be working around and under.

I took off the belly mower and the oil pan and put a lot of cribbed bracing under the engine before removing the front end of the tractor. It took a LOT of pounding to get the front axles off, so it's a good thing I had it up in the air on a stable base. I used a block of thick conforming foam to protect the oil pan's mounting surface and keep it from getting scratched up.
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