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Is my amp meter shot???

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farmallcub49
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Is my amp meter shot???

Postby farmallcub49 » Sat Feb 05, 2005 7:53 pm

Before I get to my question, I have to share a short tale. Tonight my wife wondered out to the shop to help with my wiring map. She help me decifier what wires I had backwards. Well she helped me figure that out, but in order to change them I had to remove the dash so my fat hands could work in there. When it came time to reassmble there she was hands as black as could be, helping get them tiny screws back in! Without her I would still be cussing out the IH engineers who made it so tight in there :lol:
Well onto my question. I had the wrong wire on the amp meter. I had a short and kept blowing a fuse. I switched the two wires around I had mixed up. When I pulled the starter with the lights on the amp gauge didn't move. But, when I accidently touched the hot post on the amp gauge with the extension, it arched and discharged to 30? Any help Please!!!
'49 Cub, '58 LoBoy,'61 LoBoy, '61 Modified LoBoy, '61 Customized LoBoy, way to many attachments, '22 Centerdoor Sedan, '24 Ford T Roadster, '25 Ford TT, '24 C Cab, '13 Touring, '24 Model T Snowmobile,

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Postby Bigdog » Sat Feb 05, 2005 8:17 pm

Does your ammeter dip to the negative side when you turn the lights on? If not, they are connected to the wrong post on the ammeter.
The starter circuit is not connected through the ammeter so you will not see a deflection of the ammeter while engaging the starter. After you shorted the hot post to ground causing the meter to go full negative did it return to zero when you removed the short?
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Postby Rudi » Sat Feb 05, 2005 10:22 pm

BigDog has the electrical part, so I will comment on the other.

I think it is wonderful that your wife wandered out to the shop and gave you a hand. I know how much help that really can be. Em had to help me on occassion and so has my daughter Samantha. Both have much tinier hands than my big meathooks, so I know the feeling well.

Your wife deserves and extra dozen hugs or so methinks :!: :idea: :D

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Postby farmallcub49 » Sat Feb 05, 2005 10:40 pm

BD,
According to all the various wiring diagrams I am using, OM, Rudi's Site, PB; There is a lead from the starter switch to the Neg post on the amp meter.
I am also getting lights in three positions on the switch. I think the switch maybe shot because the lights are brighter right before the switch clicks into one position or another.

Rudi,
I know exactly what you mean. My wife is the Best! I wouldn't have all the great experiences without her. My wife knows her way around a garage quite well. Her dad has been in the auto mechinic/auto body fields all his life. Her older brother never spent much time in the garage, but she just loves it. If she wasn't five months pregnant, she would spend more time with me.

Thanks for the help so far.
'49 Cub, '58 LoBoy,'61 LoBoy, '61 Modified LoBoy, '61 Customized LoBoy, way to many attachments, '22 Centerdoor Sedan, '24 Ford T Roadster, '25 Ford TT, '24 C Cab, '13 Touring, '24 Model T Snowmobile,

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Postby Jim Becker » Sat Feb 05, 2005 11:16 pm

Didn't we just go over this last week?

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Postby Donny M » Sun Feb 06, 2005 11:51 am

Jim Becker wrote:
Didn't we just go over this last week?


Yes, what's your point :?: :? 8)

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Postby Jim Becker » Sun Feb 06, 2005 12:09 pm

Donny M wrote:Jim Becker wrote:
Didn't we just go over this last week?


Yes, what's your point :?: :? 8)


That after 15 posts on the other thread, I thought it was clear his ammeter was working. I don't see what is different in this question or why the tests explained in that thread won't answer the question. Must be something.

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Postby Donny M » Sun Feb 06, 2005 3:34 pm

While the two posts are simular, I don't beleive they're the same. The first thread: http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6356&highlight=ammeter
had nothing to do with an arc. This thread however, does. Thus the concern of a non-working ammeter. I think that hr's49 and farmallcub49 had two different worries along with the simularities. 8)

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Postby Jim Becker » Sun Feb 06, 2005 3:48 pm

I can see where the answer to the question whether the ammeter is shot or not may have changed complements of the spark. But all the explanation of how a good ammeter should react to various switch positions etc. should still determine whether the meter is good now or not.

If the ammeter is now permanently pegged at 30 amps discharge, the other steps can probably be skipped over. Andy, did the needle go back to zero?

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Postby Donny M » Sun Feb 06, 2005 6:24 pm

The point of my question is what difference does it make if the same subject was covered the week before :?: Some people don’t read every post in every thread. farmallcub49 had a problem so shouldn’t we try to help :?: I’m sure that many redundant questions about Cubs have been asked on more than one occasion. :idea: Maybe we should have pointed him to the url of the previous post instead of telling him we already covered that subject last week. I think that would have been more helpful 8)

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Postby Harold R » Sun Feb 06, 2005 9:03 pm

Didn't we just go over this last week?


Are we in school? :cry:

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Postby farmallcub49 » Sun Feb 06, 2005 9:12 pm

Jim,
I'm sorry to have reposted a question that was covered only a few weeks ago. :oops: I don't have a chance to read every post, maybe I should? I probably should have done a search instead, but I was rather excited to have my wife come out and help me, so I just plugged my question in with that post. I hope I didn't get you in to much hot water with everyone. Everyone is so helpful on this board, including you! You don't know how often I throw your name out when I am chatting with fellow cubbers or IH guys. Back to the original question. The ampmeter returned to zero, so I assume it is not shot!? I was having a fuse problem in that every time I turned on the lights after a minute or so, the fuse would blow. I checked out my wiring and checked it again. I fixed those two wires that were switched. and the amp metert still doesn't discharge with lights off without tractor running.
Thanks for all you help thusfar.
'49 Cub, '58 LoBoy,'61 LoBoy, '61 Modified LoBoy, '61 Customized LoBoy, way to many attachments, '22 Centerdoor Sedan, '24 Ford T Roadster, '25 Ford TT, '24 C Cab, '13 Touring, '24 Model T Snowmobile,

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Postby Bigdog » Sun Feb 06, 2005 9:31 pm

Don't worry about repeating questions. If it weren't for them, the forums would have limited contents. Besides, we all learn from repetition. I have read the same passage from a text and heard the same lectures from an instructor multiple times and then for some reason things will suddenly make sense.
It sounds like your ammeter is OK so we'll see if we can figure out what your problem is.
Can you tell me: does the ammeter show a discharge when you turn the lights on with the tractor not running?. Does it ever show a charge condition?
Check all your grounds and tighten all your connections. The fuse blowing after a period of time sounds like a loose connection on the fuse holder. Do you feel any warm or hot wires when the fuse blows?
Bigdog
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Postby Rudi » Sun Feb 06, 2005 9:42 pm

Andy:

The old adage that a question not asked is a question not answered will also apply to the concept of understanding the problem.

I am what is know as electrically challenged, along with a few other things :lol: :lol: and sometimes I need to have a procedure explained to me a half dozen times or so before I really get it.

Don't worry about it. Repetition is a great tool and should be used in liberal amounts at times.

That was the only way I got Ellie timed properly and rewired...... keep asking the questions.
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farmallcub49
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Postby farmallcub49 » Sun Feb 06, 2005 10:12 pm

BD
When I first bought the tractor the lights weren't hooked up and I bought a new harness because the old one was a fire waiting to happen. You know how the fireman comes out in a guy all the time. I hooked up everything by removing one old wire and replacing it with a new one from the harness. After that was all done, I started her up and away we went. The lights worked for a while and then out went the fuse. Well, I replaced the fuse thinking it was old and weak. Well I tried it without the tractor running and saw some smoke rolling from under the hood (where the extingusher?) and poof it was gone. The fuse went poof and so I replaced it and watched under the hood. The smoke was rolling from the resistor wire. There was paint on it and since a few more smokings it has since stopped. Could my switch be shot?
'49 Cub, '58 LoBoy,'61 LoBoy, '61 Modified LoBoy, '61 Customized LoBoy, way to many attachments, '22 Centerdoor Sedan, '24 Ford T Roadster, '25 Ford TT, '24 C Cab, '13 Touring, '24 Model T Snowmobile,


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