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Is my amp meter shot???

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Sun Feb 06, 2005 10:21 pm

There may be enough paint there to allow some excessive current flow causing the fuse to blow. You may also have some current leakage in the headlights. As I mentioned earlier, feeling for heat is the quickest way to find a bad connection. Just be careful. If you haven't already, you might want to dis-assemble the headlight pods and make sure everything is clean and tight inside and the terminal connections on the outside (if that is the style you have) aren't painted over and allowing current flow.
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Postby John Niekamp » Sun Feb 06, 2005 10:50 pm

Farmallcub49,

Slighty change the subject here. I saw in your signature line, something I have over looked in the past. I saw just a single "T" not the the double T.

Tell me exactly what is a "Model TT Ford" :?: I do remember my grandpa talking about them, but I don't know if I ever saw one and if I did, I must not have caught it. I'm thinking that may have been a big truck. I do remember gramps having a "C" cab truck at one time. Do you have any pictures?

Good luck with you ammeter fix, and for the most EXCELLENT helper you had.

John Niekamp

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Postby Jim Becker » Sun Feb 06, 2005 10:56 pm

farmallcub49 wrote:I hope I didn't get you in to much hot water with everyone.


Don't worry, I've stood up to more than this. I should have made my comments differently to begin with. I thought you probably HAD read the other thread and there was more to the question than what it covered.

If you are getting lights in 3 positions on the switch, I think something may be connected wrong (or something in the switch?). Whether a 3 or 4 positin switch, you should only get lights on 2 positions. Is your fuse mounted directly on the switch? If so, the wiring should match this diagram. If that all matches, checking into what Bigdog said is a good next step. Something else you might try is unhooking the lights at the lights(or pull the bulbs) and turning the switch on to see if the fuse still blows. If not, hook up one light at a time and repeat the test. A short inside a lamp may cause the fuse to blow when that lamp is reconnected.

Do you have a multimeter? If so there are some other tests you can run with it. (If not an analog multimeter is fairly cheap and you will use it again.) Disconnect the lamps and pull the fuse out. check the resistance from the headlight lug of the switch to ground. It should show as an open (infinite resistance). Try flipping the switch through all the positions, while watching the meter. It should continue to show an open circuit. If you see anything else, there is a leak to ground somewhere. Unhook the wires and recheck. If the switch tests OK with the wires off, you must have a wire that is partly grounded. If you get any connection to ground with the switch totally isolated, the switch is the problem.

I'm sure there are more things to try, but that is a start.

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Postby farmallcub49 » Mon Feb 07, 2005 6:26 pm

John,
A TT is a Model T Truck or Model Ton Truck, the debate on what TT stands for is still a toss up. A "C" cab was just a cab that had a C shaped opening that had no windows. These were produced up to 1924. Here is a link to a photo of someone elses C Cab.
http://www.fordtontruckclub.org/Robert%20Slattery's%2024.JPG

Below is a link to our TT. In 1925 Ford introduce the all steel cab. Ours is a 1925. The photo is of our when we brought it home. Currently "Mernie" is in as many pieces as a Model T can be, but hopefully by mid-summer I can take it for a burn. A normal TT goes 15 mph with a low speed rearend; 20 with a high speed. Ours has a warford overdrive, which will give us a top speed of 45-50 mph.
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Feb 07, 2005 7:16 pm

An old farmer gave me a 4or 5 foot long pinch bar. He told me it was made from the drive shaft of a model t truck. Guess it is about an inch in diameter and the toughest steel I ever did see. I have pulled pushed tied a rope on and pulled with a pickup and that ole thing never warped never mind bent. I often wondered if the story of origin is true or not.

Bill
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Postby farmallcub49 » Mon Feb 07, 2005 7:20 pm

Bill, check out the link to the photos of our TT. There is various pictures of the rearend tore apart. That bar could be made from the driveshaft, which I don't have photo of.
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Postby George Willer » Mon Feb 07, 2005 7:32 pm

beaconlight wrote:An old farmer gave me a 4or 5 foot long pinch bar. He told me it was made from the drive shaft of a model t truck. Guess it is about an inch in diameter and the toughest steel I ever did see. I have pulled pushed tied a rope on and pulled with a pickup and that ole thing never warped never mind bent. I often wondered if the story of origin is true or not.

Bill


Bill,

I have a pry bar that I always understood was a model T drive shaft. I stole it from my Pop. One end was splined and just for the experience, I heated it in the forge to make it flat and slightly curved like a pry bar should be. The other end I brought to a better point.

Now, the rest of the story... I saw it at my son's barn and asked for it back. He told me he bought it fair and square at an auction. Actually someone had forged one just as I did and mine was still at home. I don't think Pop ever knew where he lost his!

You're right, that's a very good piece of steel.
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Postby John Niekamp » Mon Feb 07, 2005 7:57 pm

farmallcub49,

Well thank you for clearing that up for me. I guess I should have paid more attention to grandpa when I had the chance. These old "T's" are really one unique vehicle. I just love hearing them run. Ya, here those coils buzzing on and off. Well it's been many years since I have driven one. My mom has a 22 touring that grandpa purshased after he got out of WW2. The old car is close to original as it was when it rolled off the assembly line. It still looks rather good for the age too. Someday I will have me a "Model T" of some sort. For the time being, I will be happy with my 30 Coupe.

Now I have heard, (never had the chance) that replacing the cast iron pistons with aluminum, the engine will run faster. But from what I remembed, the quick turing of the steering wheel, could get one into trouble if they wern't careful.

Also wondering is isn't the rear end on the big trucks a worm gear type? I have a Ruxstel (?sp) two speed rear end for some sort of Ford truck, thinking maybe in the "Model A" era.

They probably weren't built for great speeds, but did they have the lugging power.

beaconlight,

The drive shafts for these old Fords, were built to last, keep in mind that on a "Model T' that drive shaft was the only link to stopping the car. The brake bands was in the transmission. If you have ever seen a "T" they had three pedals. They had like a cast iron brake band going against a stampped out steel drum. They did not have front wheel brakes, but I think there maybe some states now requires them on all four wheels, and way back then they may have had a aftermarket brake system.

Now if I remember correctly. The left pedal was for the high and low range and the middle was for reverse and the right one was the brake. Then the parking brake was just for parking only and it was on the left hand side of these pedal. It has a dual function. All the way back to the seat was the "parked" position and then in the middle was a neutral state and then move it all the way to the floorbard, was high range. They are like I say a unique design, if you ever get a chance to drive one (provided anyone would even let you) take it for a spin. Just keep in mind that the moden day car with a clutch does not disenguage the drive line on a Model T, it will throw the transmission into low gear.

Correct me if I am wrong farmallcub49, it's been many of year, since I have driven one.

Now I know what my point was, since these drives shatfs are to tough, there are many HEAVY DUTY pry bars out there still from a Model T or A drive line.

Now that I have made a mountian out of a molehill, but I just LOVE these old cars from the early teens to the 40's. I know this has nothing to do with Cubs whatsoever!

Sorry folks,

John N.

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Postby beaconlight » Mon Feb 07, 2005 9:15 pm

Kind of glad I brought you guys a happy trip down memory lane.
It also confirms that my pry bar started life as a driveshaft.

bill
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Postby farmallcub49 » Mon Feb 07, 2005 9:16 pm

John,
The TT and AA had worm drive rearends. They were built for lugging power and not speed. IF you want a fast old car, DO NOT buy a Model T! They are a very unique experience to drive. I am warning you after you drive one they are just like Cubs, you will want to buy one and then another, and another; you get the point. If you see one on the road or at a filling station, stop and ask the owner for a ride. They will more than likely oblige. Our local club has tours all spring, summer, and fall long. We are always giving rides to young and old alike. Well, we should get back to Cubs, but if your ever in my area just holler and I'll give you a spin. If you want to find a local club and contact them for a ride or whatever go to http://www.mtfca.com
There you'll find lots of info.
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Postby John Niekamp » Mon Feb 07, 2005 10:06 pm

George Willer wrote:Now, the rest of the story... I saw it at my son's barn and asked for it back. He told me he bought it fair and square at an auction. Actually someone had forged one just as I did and mine was still at home. I don't think Pop ever knew where he lost his!

You're right, that's a very good piece of steel.


George,

Sounds like to me this may be an you could start yourself a FAMILY TRADITION. Your starting to sound like my own dad, coming in the shop and asking if this machinist tool is his and so forth, "HEY, this looks just like my micrometer, did you come down to my shop and get it?" But you know Starrett has been making mics for 100 years and has sold millions that all look basically alike, lol :lol:

John

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Postby George Willer » Mon Feb 07, 2005 11:42 pm

George,

Sounds like to me this may be an you could start yourself a FAMILY TRADITION. Your starting to sound like my own dad, coming in the shop and asking if this machinist tool is his and so forth, "HEY, this looks just like my micrometer, did you come down to my shop and get it?" But you know Starrett has been making mics for 100 years and has sold millions that all look basically alike, lol

John


John,

I wish I could start that tradition. :cry: :cry: My son died in 2000. Pop is still alive at 96. Maybe I should go and confess :?:
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Postby John Niekamp » Tue Feb 08, 2005 12:02 am

Now don't I feel like the idiot George. I am so sorry to hear this, that's has to be hardest thing ever to lose your own son or daughter. My deepest apologies and sympathy.

Well let's hope that you have a long life like your dad. 96 isn't to shabby now is it?

John


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